Insadong and the Jongno Shopping Area

Jul 27 '06    Write an essay on this topic.


The Bottom Line A must see for anyone traveling in Seoul.

Insadong is a cultural and religious center in Seoul. It only covers about 4 square blocks, but there are loads of art galleries and shops wedged in here. There is also a very large, very old temple close by that is in the process of being touched up right now. It’s not a cheap area, but it’s definitely worth seeing. Right across Jongno is an area of clubs and restaurants (and shops) which make up the Jongno shopping district. It’s very secular and very hip. Both places should be on the must see list for any tourist to Seoul and you could easily do them both in one day.

Starting at the top of Insadong there is a tourist information booth. The guides there are fluent in English (though you might have to rephrase your question once or twice to make sure you’re getting what you’re really looking for.) Around the information booth, you may encounter a little old man who will ask you where you are from and if you will sign his date book. He's around 70 years old and this is his hobby. He speaks excellent English and likes to collect the names of English speakers he has talked to.

As you start down Insadong, in front of the Crown Bakery, there is a little fountain / stream that runs through a couple of pools. Both sides of the street are lined with little art galleries and souvenir shops. You’re going to be better off getting your standard souvenirs elsewhere because they can cost 20-40% more here, but if you’re looking at pottery or little brass object d’art then you should just get those here. Korea has been famous for Celadon pottery for thousands of years. You should probably reserve a place in your suitcase for at least one piece. Near the bottom of Insadong is a department store which you should avoid. They have lots of very nifty items, but they have the most aggressive salespeople I have ever encountered. Save yourself some grief and don’t cross the threshold. If you are looking for Buddhist items, you won’t find any deals anywhere. My husband likes to say that there are no bargains on the Buddhist side of town. It’s only funny the first 11 or 12 times.

In the Insadong area there always seem to be little performances going on. Occasionally buskers play along the sidewalks and there is a stage at the bottom of the road. I have seen everything from traditional Korean music to a klezmer band playing that stage and one day there was a Falun Gong rally. There’s also a little park at the bottom of Insadong with spirit posts and gangs of smoking ajossis discussing politics or possibly their health problems.

Insadong also hosts an truly amazing musical instrument market. It’s largely housed in one building and they could fit out a large metropolitan orchestra, several dozen high school marching bands and heaven only knows how many garage bands without feeling the pinch. Best to get directions to it from the information booth because I could lead you there, but I couldn’t tell you how to go.

Food options in Insadong are fantastic. Along the main road behind the info booth is a little sandwich shop called the Lime Tree, which is quite good, but very expensive. In the other direction is a vegetarian restaurant called So Shim. It’s in the basement level and closed on Sundays, but the food there is marvelous. For $20 you can have dinner for 2 with all the traditional side dishes, soup, rice, and ginger tea at the end. The food is outstanding and the décor is very interesting. In one part of the restaurant they have 2 levels of tables. You can’t stand up straight in the top or the bottom, but it’s like being in a little den. There is also a great little Indian place called Little India, which is about 2/3rds of the way down the road, right side, second and third floor. You go up one flight of stairs make a left and the door is immediately on the left. There are 2 good Italian restaurants also. Agio is up the 3rd alley to the right and the other place (never can remember the name) is down an alley to the left just past the fried squid vendor. And if you’re really in need of an American meal, you can cross Jongno where there’s a Burger King, a McDonald’s and a Kentucky Fried Chicken practically on top of one another. For dessert you should stop at Red Mango for a yogurt. It’s not like American yogurt, which tastes like ice cream. This has that yogurt tang to it. Order it with 5 toppings and you can pick from an array of fruits and sugary cereals though they are a bit stingy with the toppings. This will run about $4, but we have eaten it in lieu of dinner.

Tea is another option in Insadong. There are teahouses up and down the road. They are all expensive, but you must remember that tea is not just a "hey, I’m thirsty let’s stop and grab a cuppa" it’s an event. You will spend about $6 on a cup of tea, but it will be served in a very authentic atmosphere and usually with some kind of sweet rice cake.

Also at the bottom of Insadong is Tapgol Park. It’s on the same side of Jongno as Insadong. While it’s not a particularly impressive park on it’s own, it does have an impressive place in Korean history and there is a large, ancient stile standing there. There are also gangs of ajossis hanging around discussing matters of great importance in Korean.

To get to the Jongno shopping area you can either cross the street at the corner or you can use the underpass through Jonggak Station. If you cross at the corner you’re going to have to walk past the underpass to get into the shopping area so a nod’s as good a wink to a blind horse. You’ll know your there when you come to the giant sculpture of piano keys that runs half a block, pauses in the middle for a sculpture of a skateboarder and then picks up again until it finishes in a stage. This area is a warren of shops, bars and restaurants, that goes about 5 stories high. There’s a lot to see in this area. I’ve even seen dancing soju bottles (and I was very sober at the time.) Be careful you don’t hurt your neck or trip over something in the street rubbernecking.

If you are planning a trip to Seoul, this area should be on the must see list. In one small area you can see the traditional and secular sides of Korean culture. And, if you’re lucky, dancing soju bottles.

Nearby
Jonggak Station

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