The lost art of barn windows.
Mar 06 '07
The Bottom Line No lawyers were harmed during the preparation of this article.
I need a new garden shed/greenhouse. Years of neglect, rust and the rain of dead branches falling from a huge sugar maple has left my old metal shed with more leaks than a congressional sub-committee. Spring is near, and summer in NJ is too hot to do any real work outside, so it was time to act. Being handy, I naturally sat down with a drawing program to design a new shed.
First, I visited the town zoning board and building department to find out the rules. Then I spent several days drawing vertical and horizontal lines on paper and imagining studs and rafters. Then, I visited Lowe's and Home Depot both in person and on-line to price and select materials. All was progressing well until I got to the windows. Then I got a big surprise. Vinyl windows are expensive. The four small windows I had planned were going to increase the materials cost by about fifty percent. Yikes!
I did a lot of research on-line, made some calls and collected a pile of brochures. I have summarized my findings in the final section, since I am sure anyone needing windows will find them useful. However, it did not help me. The most inexpensive window I could buy to fit my needs cost $120 dollars each, and I needed four of them. There was simply not room in my budget for an extra $480.
Now don’t get me wrong, for $120, you get a marvelous window providing excellent insulation, smooth action, and easy installation. It won't rot, it never needs painting, and it is virtually indestructible in normal use. It is well worth the money. But, it is total overkill for a north facing window on an unheated/un-cooled garden shed. It is like using an AK47 on your ex-wife's lawyer when there is a perfectly good axe in the toolbox.
What I really needed was a good, old-fashioned barn window. You know: one single pane of glass in a simple wooden frame with hinges on the bottom, a catch on the top, and a couple of short bits of chain to use as side stops. It opens by tilting inward. Surely, there was enough demand for these simple windows for them to be available somewhere? Unfortunately, an extensive search of the Internet and several calls to local lumber yards had little success. I was going to have to build them myself.
The basic principle of all windows is to allow light and air in, while keeping water and insects out. The trick is to do that with the minimum of effort and cost. After a day or two of experimentation, I came up with a viable design. They can be built in a couple of hours for less than $20 per window, plus the cost of the glass itself.
Here's how it's done.
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Ingredients:
12' of 1x6 pine
12' 1x4 pine
12' of 2x2 pine
14' of 1x2 pine
12' of 1/2 square molding (optional)
1 sheet of glass cut to size
2 1-1/2" brass hinges
1 latch/bolt for an awning window
2 pieces of very light chain about 6" long
1 yard of nylon screen door netting
4 small brass cup hooks
1 tube waterproof glue or adhesive caulk
Glazing putty
Glazing tacks
Wood filler (for nail and screw holes)
Water seal, primer and paint
plus a few screws, brads and staples
For installation you will need some builder's paper and a good quality caulk. You will need them for a store bought window too.
Note that the most expensive piece of wood is the 1x6 face frame. However, you would still need this even if you bought a ready made window.
If you own a router and a rabbeting bit, you don't need the molding.
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Board Sizes:
All board sizes given in the text are nominal (size before planing), which is the way boards are sold. The actual sizes are smaller. 1" boards are about 3/4" thick. 2" boards are about 1-1/2" thick. Boards less than 8" wide are about 1/2" narrower than advertised, so a 4" board is actually 3-1/2" wide.
(For the record, boards wider than 8" are 3/4" narrower than nominal, so an 8" board is about 7-1/4" wide. However, we do not use any boards that wide here.)
The key word here is ABOUT. Actual width and thickness will vary slightly with different batches, and even with humidity. While I have calculated sizes here based on the normal width and thickness, experienced carpenters know it is better to actually measure the sizes needed as you go along.
It may also be worth noting that moldings are sized as sold, so a 1/2" square molding is actually 1/2" per side.
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Nominal vs. Actual (approx)
1x2 ... 3/4 x 1-1.2
1x4 ... 3/4 x 3-1/2
1x6 ... 3/4 x 5-1/2
2x2 ... 1-1/2 x 1-1/2
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Tools:
Basic:
Hammer
Screwdriver
Crosscut Saw
Drill
Staple gun
Square
Tape measure
Putty knife
2 clamps
Small chisel
Sandpaper
Pencil
Paintbrushes or pads
Level (for installation)
*
Better:
Miter box, Radial arm or chop saw -- makes right angle cuts a snap
Battery Drill/Driver -- the greatest thing since sliced bread
Electric stapler -- squeezing a hand stapler gets old fast
Power sander -- sanding by hand takes forever
Biscuit joiner or dowelling jig or pocket-screw jig -- makes the face frame joints stronger
*
Best:
Table saw -- pre-cut bevels on face frame
Nail gun -- what would Norm use
Router -- avoids need for molding which makes windows more watertight
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Instructions:
General:
To build this window you need to build four rectangles with simple butt joinery. One rectangle forms the window frame, the second forms the face frame which fastens to the window frame. The third rectangle is the insect screen, and the last one forms the window itself, the sash. All wood sizes used can be found in any home improvement store, and nothing more complicated than a 90 degree crosscut is required.
Unless otherwise stated, all the joints are glued with a-good quality waterproof glue or an adhesive caulk. Water is not your friend.
All the boxes except the face frame are joined by through screwing with deck screws.
All face joinery is by nailing through with small brads.
All nail and screw holes must be filled, sanded and finished, even in places you never see. Leaving a hole unfilled, provides a place for water to linger.
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General Tips:
When building things with butt joints for vertical installation, you always want the horizontal pieces to be full length, and the vertical pieces to be shorter and fit inside them. That way, once installed, gravity pushes your joints together rather than trying to tear them apart.
When cutting wood, always cut the longest pieces first. That way, when you mess up, you can re-cut your mistake into one of the shorter pieces.
Long wooden frames joined at the corners have a tendency to rack and twist, deforming them out of square. To avoid this, lay the piece on a flat surface. Measure the diagonals and adjust the piece until the two measurements are exactly the same. Now it is square. Tack a piece of scrap wood diagonally across a corner to hold it in place Recheck the diagonals and readjust if necessary. Set it aside while the glue dries.
If you are planning to paint the window, it is a good idea to pre-treat all the pieces with a water retardant like Thompson's or Beyr Water Seal before assembly. That way, when water gets where it shouldn't (as it invariably does) the wood still has some protection. If you plan to stain it, then put a coat of stain on before assembly instead.
The design notes in this section explain how I calculated the sizes of each piece. This will make it easier to customize the window for your needs.
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Example size:
In 16" on-center framing, which is the building code for most stick-built construction, breaking a single stud will allow a maximum width of 30.5". Height is pretty much optional, so let us use 36.5" for these purposes. So, these given measurements are for a 36.5" by 30.5" window which is a pretty useful size. This is the size of the rough opening you should leave for the window after framing.
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The window frame:
The first rectangle is the window frame -- the part that fits into the hole in the framing. Use 1x4 pine board and you want the edge toward you so the rectangle is deep like a shadow box. The rectangle should be 30" wide by 36" high.
Remember, you always want the top and bottom to be the full width, so you will need two pieces 30" long for the top and bottom and two 34-1/2" long for the sides. A 1x4 board is actually about 3/4" thick so 36" minus the width of the top and bottom equals 34-1/2". You knew this, right?
Design Note: The outer dimensions of this rectangle should be 1/2" smaller than the rough opening. You need the extra space so you can use shims to level the window during installation.
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The face frame:
The second rectangle is the trim or face frame. It is the part that will be visible from outside, so the board width should match or complement the other trim on the shed. In my case, I used 1x6 boards for all my other trim, so I used them here too. The rectangle will be made with the wood flat, wide face toward you. This piece should be 43-5/8" high and 38" wide.
For style and water resistance reasons it is usual to cut the top board 2" - 4" longer than the bottom one, and have it stick out evenly on both sides when assembled. Consequently, I cut my top piece 40" wide for a 1" overhang on each side.
Use a saw to cut 1/2" (at a 45 degree angle) off the inside corner of each side where it joins the sill (bottom). This is so rain that falls on the sill cannot puddle in the corner. It is easier to cut these notches before assembly.
Since, you will be joining the boards widthwise, you cannot simply screw through the boards to make the joints. Depending on your skill and equipment, many choices are available. I used a biscuit joiner, clamps and glue. Wooden dowels are cheap and easy to use, and a dowelling jig is inexpensive. Pocket screws in the back are another fine choice. If all else fails, you can buy squiggly nailing strips used to join the corners of picture frames. Just make sure you put them in the back of the frame and hammer them down flush with the surface.
It is a good idea to encourage water to run away from the building. To do this make the top and bottom edges of the two horizontal pieces, slope down toward the outside world and away from your building. You can do this once assembled with sandpaper, a block plane, or a power sander. You don’t need much of a slope; gravity is a wonderful thing. (Experts, who never get confused, can do this with their table saw before assembly, by cutting a 10 degree bevel into the appropriate surfaces.)
Design Note:
At first sight, the size of this piece seems complicated. You want the INNER dimensions of the face frame to be smaller than inner measurements of the window frame, so it will overhang at the top and sides. The inner height of this rectangle must be 1-3/8" shorter than the inner height of the window frame you just made. The inner width must be 1" less than the inner width of the window frame.
* In my example, the window frame is 36" high and 30" wide. Since the wood is 3/4" thick, the inner measurements are 1-1/2" smaller: 34-1/2" by 28-1/2.
* Doing the math, makes the inner measurements of the face frame 33-1/8" high by 27-1/2" wide.
* The 1x6 boards are 5-1/2" wide, so adding 10-1/2" (twice the width of the boards) makes the outer dimensions of the rectangle 43-5/8" high and 38" wide.
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Frame Assembly:
Now it is time to fasten the two rectangles together. Turn the window frame you made first so that the outside is up (and check it is still square). Cover the edge with plenty of glue. Place the face frame on it, with the outside up and arrange it so that it extents over the inside of window frame evenly, about 1/2" at each side, and that it is down about 1-1/2" at the top. The bottom edge of the face frame should be about 1/8" BELOW the window frame. (The bottom must not overhang, or you are making a place for water to pool, which is never a good thing.) Make sure the notches you cut are at the bottom.
Check the diagonals to make sure the face frame is square and nail it to the window frame with a few brads. (You can screw it down too, but you will just have bigger holes to fill later.) Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth, set the frame aside while the glue dries.
Tip: Clamp a scrap piece of 2x4 to the inside of the top and a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood to each side. Now, just line up the face frame by using the edge of these pieces as a guide.
Expert Note: Nailing and/or screwing through the face frame breaks the plane. Sun, rain, and time will eventually find a way to get water to seep through the hole, especially if you are as lazy about routine maintenance as I am. Using a biscuit joiner or pocket screw jig so that this joint can be fastened from the inside is probably worth the extra effort. Although tempting, I do not recommend using metal fasteners like corner braces here. In time, expansion and contraction of the brace will break the glue seal and allow water to penetrate the joint.
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Insect Screen:
The next rectangle to build is the insect screen. Make a simple piece out of 1x2 strapping. Like the face frame, you want the wide piece of the wood toward you. However, since the wood is only 1-1/2" wide, you can easily screw through it to make the joints, so no fancy woodwork is required.
This piece will be about 33-1/2" high by 28-1/4" wide. Test it. It should fit through the frame with a small amount of slack, and lie on the overlapping part of the face frame.
Design Note: This rectangle should be 1/4" narrower and 1" shorter than the inside of the frame.
To be really pedantic, you should slope the inner edges of the top and bottom, like you did with the face frame. Don't slope the outer edges, they need to stay square.
You need to hold the bottom of the screen slightly up from the sill so that any water that gets through the screen can drain out. To do this put a small round or pan-head screw in the edge, about 2 inches from one end. Screw it down so that it protrudes about 1/8". Put a second screw 2" from the other end. For really wide windows, you may want to put a third screw in the center. These screws will get wet, so use nylon, aluminum or stainless steel. Galvanized screws will eventually rust and stain your windowsill.
In use, the insect screen is attached to the face frame with a few 1" deck screws. One top center and one near the base of each side is fine. Drill the holes now but don’t attach the screen yet. You need to do a lot of other stuff first. Make sure you countersink the holes so the screws fit flush but don't overdo it. You do not want the screw point breaking through the face frame.
Remember. Sooner or later you will have some sort of mishap and have to replace or repair the netting, so you cannot nail or glue the insect screen in place, and these screw holes will never be filled or painted over. However, they will be concealed by the sash frame when the window is closed. If you want to devise a fancier way to secure the screen, be my guest (and post a comment too).
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Covering the Insect Screen.
First, waterproof it, paint it, varnish it, and whatever. This is the only time you will get a chance.
Once it is done, cut a piece of nylon insect screen the size of the screen frame, with about 2"of excess all round. I prefer the nylon screening because it is easier to work with and you don't cut yourself on the edges. Remember, in use, the face covered by netting will be on the outside.
Start at the top, bend the netting over the edge and staple it about 1/4" from the edge. It is best to use copper staples. Steel staples will rust and disintegrate. Continue all around until the netting is secured. Keep it reasonably taut but don't stretch it hard enough to distort the frame. Make sure you do not overlap the screws on the bottom, yet. Use scissors to remove most of the excess at the corners.
Now, go round again stapling about 1/4" from the other edge. You can staple the top and sides taut, but the bottom needs special treatment. You need a gap for water to get out, but you do not want this to become a crawling bug highway. To do this roll the extra material into a band about 1/2" wide and lightly staple the outer edge. This is the time to overlap those screws. Don't pull the fabric taut. You want the band to be springy and puffy. In use, this will fill the gap, allowing water through, but no bugs.
Once the second row of staples is in place, you can cut off the excess screening with scissors.
Tip: Tacking scrap wood across the middle will help keep the sides in shape while you work. You can also make a simple jig by screwing a few short pieces of 1x2 to a scrap piece of plywood. More about that later.
Tip: Most people prefer to complete the woodwork before they start finishing the piece. That is fine; just remember to use a scrap piece of netting or an extra sheet of paper as a shim in the next step to allow for the thickness of the netting.
*
The curb:
I am sure that window makers have a proper name for this piece, but I don't know what it is, so I just call it a curb. It fits across the sill to stop wind driven rain having a direct line into your structure. This reminds me of the way a curb on the sidewalk keeps the rain in the gutter.
It is probably the most important piece in the entire window. It not only blocks rain, but it moves the pivot point of the hinges below the sash, so you can butt the sash against the screen frame without it binding.
To make it, simply cut a piece of 1x2 the width of the window (28-1/2"). Make sure the ends fit nice and tight. Lay it flat on the sill and push it against the inside of the window screen, using a couple of sheets of paper as spacers to allow for the thickness of paint (and netting) and clamp it in place.
Now, try taking the window screen in and out. The screen goes in by pushing it against the face frame and sliding it down. Sliding it up and then pulling, removes it. Adjust the curb until you can have a narrow gap, but you can still get the screen in and out easily. Mark the position of the curb, then glue it securely in position and re-clamp it. Wipe off the excess glue and try the screen one more time. Once it is perfect, secure it by driving 1" deck screws up through the frame.
Make sure you use a generous amount of waterproof glue, especially near the outer edge. Do not forget to put glue on the ends. You do NOT want water getting beneath this curb.
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The Sash:
Now, finally it is time to make the window sash. This piece will be about 33-1/2" high by 28-1/4" wide. Check it for square and brace it with scrap in the usual way. You will need a 1/2" wide and deep rabbet on the outside face of the sash to hold the glass. The easiest way to do this is with a rabbeting bit on a router, and a sharp chisel to square the corners. Alternately, you can use some 1/2" square molding, fastening it round the inside of the frame with glue and brads to leave a 1/2" channel.
Designers Note : The size of the sash is simply 1/4" smaller than the remaining window space after adding the curb.
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Assembly:
First, dry fit the pieces to be sure everything fits.
Now, before you assemble the pieces and add the hardware, now is a good time to make sure the window is well waterproofed, fill the nail/screw holes, and give it a good coat of primer. It is time to cover the screen and secure it in position.
Put the frame on your workbench face frame down. Put the sash in position in the frame. It sits in the gap between the curb and the top of the frame, and on top of the screen. Use shims to hold it about 1/8" from all sides. You can easily make suitable shims by simply folding a piece of paper.
Use two small sturdy brass hinges to secure the sash to the window frame. We are into utility here so surface mounting the hinges is fine. Make sure the pivot on the hinge is below the top of the curb or the window will bind when you open and close it. Once you are sure that the widow opens and closes smoothly, attach the catch to top. This can be as simple as a barrel bolt and a well placed hole. Almost any catch designed for an awning window will do.
You also need stops to hold the window a few inches open. I used four small cup hooks and two short pieces of chain. Just fasten a cup hooks to the back of the frame near the top. Fasten another to the sash directly across from it. Place the other two hooks in identical positions at the other side. Now hook the two pieces of chain over the matching hooks.
You can adjust how far the window opens by which link you put over the hook. Remove the chain and the window opens wide for cleaning.
Tips:
If you fasten the hook to the top piece of the sash, time and wear will eventually cause the strut to rock and break the seal on the joint. Put the hook an inch or two down the side instead.
Yes, a single pair of hooks is sufficient to support the window, but eventually something will go wrong. The window crashing open unexpectedly will break it, and it could be dangerous to anyone nearby. Splurge the extra $1 and put in a second pair of hooks at the other side. Even support will also help stop the window racking too.
Fasten the hinge to the window frame, not to the curb. Otherwise, time and wear will eventually break the seal and cause the curb to leak.
It is worth spending a few extra minutes in the hardware store to find hooks, hinges and catches that work well for you. The Stanley hinges I used have one arm about 1" longer than the other. I think they were meant to support the fold out leaf on a table. The hooks have a safety spring, so the chain cannot pop off unexpectedly.
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Glazing:
There are lots of ways to put glass this frame, but it's hard to beat just old-fashioned glazing.
Cutting glass is a pain. Avoid it by unscrewing the hinges and taking the sash with you to the glass store. Let them take the measurements and dry fit the piece before you leave. You need about 1/8" clearance all round. What kind of glass you use depends on your situation. A south facing window may be better with tinted glass. A window close to a high traffic area may be better with tempered glass. Chat to the gal at the store to see what options are available. So far you have made a $120+ window using about $10 worth of wood, so splurge. Glass is cheap anyway. You also need some triangular glazing tacks and some glazing putty. A 1" putty knife is handy but not essential.
Glazing is super easy. Usually you put a moderate but ample bead round the inner corner of the slot you have made. You place the glass on it and push down gently but firmly until it squeezes out slightly all around the inner support. Then, you secure the glass in place with the glazing tacks. You push these into the wood with the end of your putty knife or a narrow paint scraper. No hammers here please. Put a tack every 2-4 inches. Like pizza and chocolate, more is better.
Once all the tacks are in place, you put a heavier bead of putty around the wood glass junction, covering the tacks. You wet your thumb and run it round the bead, pushing it into the cracks and forming a nice smooth triangular finish at about a 45 degree angle. Cut the excess putty off with the knife or scraper and leave it to set. Glazing putty never really hardens, but you can paint the putty once the surface is dry. Drying time varies so consult the back of the can for details.
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Installation:
The steps here are the same as installing a ready made window, and you can find plenty of instructions on the web. Remember, this window has the face frame already, so it installs on top of the siding, not beneath it.
In my case, an unfinished shed, I have total access to the studs and the inside of the siding, so I can fasten the face frame with screws from the inside, rather than nails from the outside. This avoids "breaking the plane" and some waterproofing issues down the road. This also allowed me to fully paint the frame/sash before glazing or installation. While this was easier, it is best to leave the "rabbet" as just primer. Glazing putty may not stick well to the top-coat or varnish.
Tip: It is a good idea to remove the sash while leveling and putting in the first couple of screws/nails. This makes it lighter and easier to handle, and it saves on any accidents. However, before going any further, put the sash back in, and shim it to hold the 1/8" gap around it. Now finish fastening the frame to the opening. Having the sash solidly in place will help prevent racking, and makes sure the window won't stick or bind in use.
* * *
Improvements:
The most obvious improvement is that if you actually plan to heat or cool the space, double glaze the window. This is simply a matter of glazing a second sheet of glass on the inside. If you used molding, you already have an inner slot. If not, you will need a second pass with the router.
However, there is one "trick" to double glazing. Drill a couple of small (say 1/8") holes through the sash and into the "sealed" space. Wood constantly gains and looses moisture. Without these holes, water vapor will get permanently stuck between the panes, fogging the glass and rotting the wood. The holes allow the vapor to escape.
Also, judicious use of weather stripping or felt in the gaps will cut down drafts and make these windows more airtight when closed.
For a 50-80 percent increase in the wood cost, you can substitute cedar for pine. This is naturally insect and water resistant, so you don’t need to seal the wood before assembly. Cedar splits if you look at it wrong, so you may want to practice with a bit of it first.
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Final tips:
If you are making several windows the same size, it is worth spending the time to make a jig. This is easy to do.
Get a small sheet of 3/4 plywood or MDF about 3' by 4'. Mark the approximate layouts of the four rectangles on the board. It is okay for them to cross over, but don’t run any edges in common. Leave at least 1-1/2 inches between parallel pieces, so you will have room to attach the wood blocks. Stay at least 1-1/2" inches from the edges too.
Now, as you cut the pieces for the first rectangle, lay them on the board. Use four short (about 4") sections of 1x2 to hold each edge. Place these so they don’t block any of the other rectangles you have marked. As each piece goes in place, ensure it is absolutely square by using the 3, 4, 5 triangle method and add some more blocks. When all four pieces are in place, check the diagonals. Once you are totally happy, any other rectangle laid between these blocks will be the right size and perfectly square. Make pencil marks on the frame in appropriate places to make measuring easier for future pieces.
Do not make a second identical piece at this time. Instead, make the second rectangle and lay it in its position just as you did the first. Do the same for the third and fourth pieces as you need them. Once you have the first window together, you can be sure the jig is exactly what you need, or you can make a slight adjustment if required. If you do adjust the jig, make a second window to make sure the adjustment was correct. Do not start mass producing pieces until you are absolutely certain that the jig is perfect.
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Window Basics:
The important decision in framing a window is the width. To change a two foot high window into a four foot high window requires no extra framing. The jack studs become longer, the cripple studs become shorter but the total length and the number of pieces remains the same. However, making a window wider requires breaking more studs, causing more work, more pieces, and the longer support pieces may require a heavier and more expensive size of wood for the lintel, upgrading it from a 2x6 to a 2x8 or even a 2x10.
Windows come in two basic flavors, ones that are taller than they are wide, and ones that are wider than they are tall. Off-the-shelf tall windows, like double-hung, single-hung, casement and awning windows start at two feet wide and get wider in four inch increments (2', 2' 4", 2' 8" etc.). Wide windows, like sliding windows and transoms, also start at two feet wide but widen in one foot increments (2', 3', 4' etc.). There are also a huge selection of specialty windows, like bow, bay and garden windows, and all manner of pre-made combination windows created by fastening the simple types together. All windows are available in a wide range of heights, in two, four or six inch increments. A quick trip to your local home warehouse will provide a leaflet containing all the standards sizes made by that manufacturer.
Usually, vinyl windows are the least expensive with wood, aluminum, and clad aluminum costing much more. All commercially available windows are at least double glazed, with low emission, argon filled and other energy saving options available for more money. Tempered and tinted glass may be combined with the other styles. The more mechanics a window has, the greater the cost. A picture window (non-opening) is the cheapest then single hung, followed by double hung. Windows with turn-screw type actions like casement and awnings are more expensive still, and so on. All commercially available windows (except picture windows) come with window screens.
The easiest and cheapest windows to buy are the ones in your local home improvement store, which will usually be Anderson or Pella. As I noted above, "settling" for a slightly different height than you originally planned is generally not a problem. A standard size they do not have in stock is still relatively inexpensive, but you will have to wait while it is ordered. Any window that does not fit one of the standard sizes is a custom window. Custom windows cost more. Most states have a local company or two that makes discount windows, which are usually decent quality and cost 10-20 percent less than the big name brands. However, all their windows are custom and they usually have a minimum size for pricing purposes, so for a small standard size, a name brand is often cheaper.
Just about everyone who sells windows provides installation too. In New Jersey, installing a single smallish standard window on the ground floor will cost about $75. This may vary considerably in other locations. Bigger windows and upper floors cost considerably more. Windows are normally installed after cladding (strandboard or plywood) but before the siding (clapboards etc.).
As a general rule, installation costs will run 60-100 percent of the cost of the windows themselves. While installing them yourself will save a lot of money, it will not save enough to cover your hospital bill for falling off a ladder, or the cost of repair if water infiltrates your home. Window installation is best left to the competent. Only your spouse knows if that includes you.
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Safety:
As always, dress for safety. Be careful out there.
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