Roraima, the lost world
Written: Feb 08 '02 (Updated Dec 09 '07)
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Pros: Fantastic otherworldly landscape. Fauna and flora found nowhere else in the world. Plentiful fresh water.
Cons: Remote access. Insect nuisances. Information on natural history difficult to obtain.
The Bottom Line: Roraima belongs on the list of the wonders of the world. It should be on everyone's must-see list (and checked off while still young and able!)
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| ilselieve's Full Review: Roraima |
The mists of Roraima swirled protectively around its summit during our three-day approach, and I soon discovered why it has been referred to so often by authors as The Lost World. In the mist on the top, it appears to host the ruins of ancient civilization -- algae-blackened stones in the form of monstrous temples, petrified armies, fallen pillars. And Jurassic Park-like, we all felt the eerie expectation too that at any moment, a pterodactyl might be peering over our shoulders from a rocky perch.
Roraima is a table mountain, a tepui, a rocky straight-sided outcropping in the “Gran Sabana”. It spans the borders of Venezuela, Brazil, and British Guiana. It is known by the Indians of the region as the mother of all waters. Indeed, water flowing down its sides finds its way to the Amazon River in Brazil, to the Orinoco in Venezuela, and the Esequibo River in British Guiana. It was first climbed in 1882. It’s climbed traditionally from the Venezuelan side, where there is an approach across its wall. Its Brazilian side was first climbed in the early 1990’s.
The more information you can gather ahead of time, the more you can appreciate the spectacular things you will see on the mountain – carnivorous plants, cryptic frogs, odd rock formations. Some species of the fauna and flora are endemic to particular tepuis. I found it difficult to find much information on the natural history, although a series of collection expeditions have been made. The following references are all related to the mountain:
Stanley Jeeves (1965) Journey to the Lost World
Hamish MacInnes (1974) Climb to the Lost World
1981-2 translation of Theodor Koch-Grünsberg’s Del Roraima al Orinoco
Charles Brewer-Carias, Roraima, La Montaña de Cristal
Marie Penelope Rowe Clementi (1920) Through British Guiana to the Summit of Peru
Preparation
Be in reasonable physical shape. The altitude is 9180 feet, enough for some to feel a difference in oxygen level. The ascent doesn’t require any special rock-climbing skills, but it is necessary to use hand over feet on the final day of the approach.
Pack comfortable shoes!!! I wore the field boots that I had always considered comfortable, but the hike was too punishing for them. I hobbled barefoot around the summit and made my way down in socks, earning the distinction from the guide of the first person to descend Roraima without shoes…. Traction is important for the slippery rocks.
Raingear is important. It’s impossible to avoid being exposed to water. There are numerous streams and rivers to cross, a couple unavoidable climbs under waterfalls, and a lot of misty drizzle on the top.
A liter-sized water bottle is enough to get you from one clean water source to the next.
Bring enough warm clothes. On the top be prepared to handle 5 degrees C. Switch out of sweaty clothes upon arriving in the camp, before you begin to cool down from the exercise.
A waterproof camera case is helpful so that you can carry your camera outside your pack, avoiding having to unload and rummage in your pack for each shot.
Tour package or do-it-yourself
The high end option is to purchase a tour package from overseas. It’s possible to find tour packages on the internet that handle every aspect of getting from your country of origin to the summit of Roraima. You will spend a lot more for this convenience.
A very reasonable option is to use the local, experienced tour providers in Santa Elena de Uairén. They can hire a reliable guide, select porters, arrange your drop-off and pick-up, purchase the proper quantities of food for the trip, and rent you any additional items you may need. Our tour operator, which I would recommend highly, was Kamadac. They have a web site at www.abenteuer-venezuela.de, and can provide bilingual guides in major languages.
To really cut corners, you could put together your own excursion. This is an option if you are fluent in Spanish. You should budget for
Food
Some things are less expensive across the border in Brazil
(Only need a health card showing yellow fever vaccination to cross)
Transportation
Bus fare or car rental to San Francisco, cost of 4WD rental from San Francisco to Parai-tepui and back.
Equipment
Rentals of anything of which you are not equipped (stove? sleeping bag? tent?)
Guide
A guide is mandatory. Essential as well because there is no trail map.
Porters
Hiring porters is a way to contribute to the local economy. There is no fee for entering the park. Porters are also a way for you to enjoy the scenery more and spend less time thinking about ankles, knees, and toes.
Route
The first day takes no more than five hours hiking across rolling savanna. Plan to leave Parai-tepui no later than 1 p.m. The first night is spent at the camp by Rio Tek. On the second morning you ford Rio Kukenán, necessitating ropes if the water is too high from a recent rain. The second day has a higher uphill to downhill ratio. The second night is spent at base camp, where vegetation is denser. The third day begins hiking through rainforest and then following the “ramp” along the wall to the summit. There is time leftover on the third day to explore the top. On the fourth day one can explore the Valley of the Crystals, the highest point, and other interesting features of the summit. Add an extra day to see the triple point at the far end of the tepui. On the return, you are encouraged to make it to base camp for lunch, and hike out as far as Rio Tek by evening. On the final day, one makes the trek from Rio Tek back to Parai-tepui and a waiting vehicle.
Health and Safety
Chigoes are more of a nuisance than a health hazard. This is a miniscule type of flea, carried by dogs and pigs, that burrows under the skin of your hands or feet and uses your blood to fuel its egg production. You will notice an uncomfortable swelling, with a faint black dot in its center. You can remove it easily by breaking the skin with a sterilized needle or knife.
Another nuisance is a type of biting gnat. These are known as puripuri in Venezuela or pium in Brazil. They take a little bite from your skin, leaving a single drop of blood and an itchy welt. Wearing a thin-long-sleeved shirt will protect you from them and sun as well. Some judicious citronella “Jungle Juice” on neck, ears, and eyebrows will protect your uncoverable parts.
Rattlesnakes exist, but encountering one is rare. One of my traveling companion’s did find a scorpion under the pants he had lain on a rock to dry. There were some impressive but non-threatening spiders.
Use plenty of sunblock. An SPF factor of 18 wasn’t enough for me….
Don’t overexert yourself. A friend of mine who worked for the Austrian Red Cross told me that the most common cause of death on mountains is heart attacks, brought on by pushing oneself too hard. It happens most often in trying to keep up with other members of a group, especially one’s son! : ) Most of the days require at most five hours of hiking normal speed. Take more time, start early, and go more slowly.
A woman who returned ahead of the group from the mountain was assaulted by porter from the local village. The village had been advised, and as we were leaving, we saw the chief going to attend to the situation. Good travel sense: stay in groups! That’s also wise behavior in the mist on the top, keeping in sight of the person in front and behind you at all times.
If you go through a tour agency, it may be possible to take a cell phone to the summit. In case of emergency, a helicopter can be summoned at a price of 2000 US$.
Further information
A good starting point for further information is the web site www.gransabana.com.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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Epinions.com ID:
ilselieve
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Member: ilse ackerman
Location: Harrisonburg, Virginia
Reviews written: 7
Trusted by: 0 members
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