Jean-Georges: The Best Manhattan Has to Offer?
Written: Jun 23 '02 (Updated Jun 23 '02)
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Pros: Absolutely top-notch, full-flavored, creatively prepared dishes and flawless service.
Cons: But....if you are expecting perfection, you might be disappointed.
The Bottom Line: One of Manhattan's most acclaimed restaurants, Jean-Georges is certainly worth the price of admission, but as fabulous as it is, I still hesitate before attaching any superlatives to it.
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| Epicure's Full Review: Jean-Georges |
I wasn’t sure I could make it. After six decadent courses at the temple of fine dining known as Jean- Georges, I found myself feeling quite over-indulgent, wondering how many times one could commit the sin of gluttony in one sitting. Suddenly as if by magic, a whole other meal was laid out before us – a meal consisting solely of desserts. Ordinarily this palatial spread would have delighted this epicure to no end, but that Friday night (which also happened to be Mr. Epicure’s birthday), all I could do was stare with profound regret that I could only manage a bite or two of each dessert. “How many were there?” you ask. Well, let’s see….Mr. Epicure and I ordered dessert sampler plates which each included four selections , so that’s already eight. In addition, the restaurant presented Mr. Epicure with a complimentary full-size raspberry napoleon as a birthday gift, and on top of that we had a plate of miniature macaroons and a plate of petit fours with chocolates, florentines and fruit jellies. So I think it would hardly be an understatement to say the desserts alone could have constituted an entire meal!
Some visuals, please. Yes, yes, don’t worry. I’ll paint you a luscious portrait indeed. Both dessert samplers were displayed on square, white plates sectioned off into quarter spaces. On Mr. Epicure’s plate, there was (1) a pretty passion fruit custard made to resemble a sunflower with meringue petals and a sprinkling of passion fruit seeds as pollen; (2) a soft, chewy peanut pistachio caramel square served with a deep, dark, bittersweet cocoa sorbet; (3) a raspberry petit beurre (a cross between a cake and a shortbread) with a spread of angelic coconut cream and garnished with fresh raspberries; and (my favorite) (4) a dainty dish of coconut tapioca pudding with a sublime clementine juice syrup.
On my plate, there was (1) a light and fluffy ricotta cheesecake with a jaunty melon ball center; (2) a warm chocolate cake with the JG signature molten chocolate filling, served with a classic vanilla ice cream; (3) a crisp pavlova (meringue) with a summery lemon sorbet forming its core; and (my favorite) (4) a subtly tangy yet sweet rhubarb soup, generous with pulp and complemented by a scoop of lush mango sorbet.
Our servers had barely set down our two dessert samplers when a gorgeous raspberry napoleon appeared on the scene and threatened to steal the show. Each layer of flaky pastry was ever so delicate, and the whipped raspberry mousse filling was ethereal in color and texture. Best of all, the plumpest, juiciest, Greenmarket raspberries were strewn all over the plate. There were so many, it was positively criminal! “Happy Birthday” was written on an edible sign made of marzipan.
After the main desserts, we haltingly ventured over to the macaroons and petit fours. Talk about sugar overload. I envisioned us bouncing off the walls with all the sugar that had to be pulsing through our veins by now. Ugh! I’ve been tricked! That was my first thought after popping an eggshell textured, vanilla-colored macaroon in my mouth. My taste buds had been prepared to feast on some exotic-scented vanilla bean concoction, but what they encountered was an odd licorice flavor. Not ready to give up so easily, I next sampled the chocolate-colored macaroon. More licorice! Finally defeated, I ate a chocolate truffle from the plate of petit fours for consolation. Then I sank back into our intimate little banquette, utterly satiated, ready to stretch out and take a nap.
Wow, it’s been a while since I reviewed a meal in reverse. Having taken you through the last course of our meal, I suppose it only right that I tell you everything that came before, only I’m a little afraid that the rest of the review will be somewhat anti-climatic. Dessert descriptions have always been like food porn to me - the more details the better, particularly when accompanied by glossy photographs with lots of close-ups. Who wants to read about healthy, decent, good-for-you stuff when you can have porn, right?
Okay, enough of that. What did we do before arriving at that marvelous moment of abandoned, unadulterated dessert frenzy?
At precisely 8 p.m. on a Friday evening that would have been typical but for the fact that it was Mr. Epicure’s birthday, Mr. Epicure and I entered the surprisingly understated lobby of that flashy gold palace known as the Trump International Hotel. Two model-thin receptionists, both wearing clingy black ensembles, welcomed us and ushered us into the Jean-Georges dining room, which is on the first floor of the hotel.
It is a simple room for such an upscale restaurant, not nearly as grand as Daniel, which many consider Jean-Georges’ main competition for the title of best restaurant in Manhattan. If one were being kind, he or she might call it understated, but in truth, it is rather plain and unexciting. I could not ascertain the color of the walls due to the dim lighting, but I believe it is an off-white. The room features few pieces of artwork although you do have an unfettered view of the giant, golden globe outside the window (Trump’s atrociously gaudy hotel trademark). I imagine the view will improve considerably once the AOL-Time Warner/Lincoln Jazz Center across the street is completed. Right now, all you can see is the globe, Columbus Circle and a massive construction site. If only the restaurant were on the other side of the hotel. Then you would have a smashing window on to Central Park.
But enough about the view. I felt lucky that the hostess seated us at a wonderfully private booth for two (Donald Trump’s preferred table, I’ve been told). Because it is set in a little alcove area, there is a wall on either side of the booth, and behind the booth is another high padded wall. If one wanted to have an intimate conversation with one’s dining partner, this would be the table to request. A beautiful white bearded iris rested in a blue frosted vase on our table.
During the course of our evening, we had several servers. I’m not sure how they determined who served which course. I really liked the young server who came over to take our drink order. I remember the rapturous expression on his face when he described various reds by the glass on their menu. His eyes lit up when Mr. Epicure ordered a particular Riesling (the name of which now escapes me), proclaiming that was one of his favorites. And no, I don’t think he was trying to earn brownie points with us because that Riesling inspired the same passion in me. His enthusiasm for the wines stayed with me. Perhaps someday he might study to become a sommelier.
The most senior ranking server exuded utmost professionalism and refinement in his interactions with us, but I found his style a little too proper and correct, if you know what I mean. I’m sure it’s all a matter of personal preference, and many patrons probably expect that sort of behavior from a server at restaurant as celebrated and pricey as Jean-Georges.
Diners can choose from three different menus at the restaurant. If you wish to select each course of your meal, there is a three-course, prix-fixe menu, priced at $85 per person which offers you a choice among ten or so appetizers and entrees. If you desire to sample as many as possible of Jean-Georges’ spectacular creations in one meal, I would recommend one of the seven-course tasting menus, priced at $118 per person. We were presented with two tasting menus – the Jean- Georges Menu (signature dishes of the Chef) and the Spring Menu (dishes composed of seasonal ingredients). Being a firm believer of allowing the Greenmarket to dictate your menu, I leaned toward the Spring Menu. Mr. Epicure agreed, so the Spring Menu it was.
Our meal began with an amuse bouche trio - poached shrimp with mustard seed gelee, mozzarella with fresh diced tomatoes, and a small piece of toasted brioche with a tapenade spread. I enjoyed them all, the poached shrimp being my favorite, but really they were just palate teasers.
Our first course consisted of Foie Gras served with a spiced mango “kimchee” salad. Our servers placed both of our plates in front of us before spooning some translucent, quivery warm ginger gelee on the foie gras. Foie gras, like caviar and pate, has always been one of those extravagant dishes that announce you’ve arrived. I am not a big fan of foie gras. Perhaps foie gras is an acquired taste, in which case, it is a taste that I never acquired, but I can objectively say, Jean-Georges’ foie gras is one of the best that I have ever sampled. So buttery that it melts in your mouth, so smooth and fine-textured that it is like eating silk. The mango salad and ginger gelee did a nice job of offsetting the richness of the foie gras.
Mr. Epicure and I loved the next three courses. A Crispy Soft Shell Crab provided a wonderful crunch followed by a squirt of crab juice with each bite. A shiso mint emulsion balanced the oceanic flavor of the crab perfectly, and the yuzu added just a touch of fragrant citrus.
Two shallow white bowls holding three willowy stems of white asparagus and a few miniature raviolis were placed before us as we were served our next course – the White Asparagus Soup. Only in season from early May to late June, the elusive white asparagus is always a treat to spot on any menu. It tastes like green asparagus, only much more delicate in texture and flavor. It’s never tough like green asparagus and has a mild sweetness that many people, particularly Europeans, find pleasing. As far as I know, white asparagus is not commercially grown in the States because it is too time-consuming. Most of the white asparagus that we see here is imported from Europe. Jean-Georges’ white asparagus soup is magnificent except for a tad too much salt. The smooth, rounded asparagus flavor is punctuated with bursts of lemon flavor in the form of tiny lemon raviolis. What a lovely combination! If only they filled our bowls all the way instead of half way.
The most transporting experience all evening came when they brought to our table an exceedingly tender Black Sea Bass, crusted with a melange of nuts and seeds, and bathed in a sublime brandy-colored sauce that seamlessly wove together the sweet and the tangy. The flavors were so pure and so intense that we could hardly find the words to express our adoration of this dish, so all one could hear from our table were some unintelligible murmurings, moans and sighs as we cleaned our plates.
Sad to say, the major disappointment of the evening – the Lemon Poached Lobster, followed the sea bass. In my opinion, lobster is not a food to be toyed with. It should be served fresh, steamed and unadorned. Yes, I can make allowances for lobster rolls and lobster bisque, but not for the type of “creative preparation” that fancy restaurants always insist upon. Jean-Georges serves its lobster with sweet tapioca pearls, Gewurztraminer froth and a passion fruit sauce. Yikes! First of all, fresh lobster has a natural sweetness that requires no enhancement. Second of all, passion fruit sauce????? It completely overwhelmed any lobster flavor whatsoever. On top of that, I think the lobster was overcooked and rubbery.
Thank goodness for the hearty Rib-Eye Steak, which brought our meal to a delightful end (except for dessert, of course). Slightly charred and marinated in a garlic soy sauce, the steak was robust and juicy, exactly as a steak should be. A most promising sign, considering the fact that Jean-Georges plans to open a steak restaurant in the new AOL-Time Warner/ Lincoln Jazz Center. It was served with one of its traditional companions, sautéed onions and a pile of overly bitter radiccio.
You already know everything that came after the steak, our dessert extravaganza. I think this meal broke our record for the longest meal that the two of us has ever had – three-and-a-half hours. Everything at Jean-Georges is executed with a trained precision – every piece of silverware replaced after each course, every napkin refolded, solicitous inquiries throughout the evening. Not just a dining experience, but a dining Event (with a capital “E”).
If I could, I would rate this restaurant 4.5 stars – a blasphemy in the minds some of devoted JG fans, I’m sure. While I would characterize the meal as truly delectable, inventive and memorable, I did not find it to be the life-changing experience that many others have described to me.
Address: One Central Park West (great address!), New York, NY
Telephone: 212-299-3900
Attire: Men wore jackets, and women wore nice dresses or business suits. I recall seeing a few more casually dressed tables, but most patrons donned in special occasion attire.
Child Friendly: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes. I have heard that this restaurant will try to accommodate any reasonable request made by a guest, so I don’t think it would be too difficult for the Chef to create a vegetarian tasting menu.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
Epicure
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: New York, NY
Reviews written: 88
Trusted by: 100 members
About Me:
I generally avoid temptation....unless I can't resist it.
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