I recently spent four days in the Amazon rainforest, at a resort called the Ariau Amazon Towers. Ariau provided an experience that some may find boring, but which I found to be rejuvenating and overwhelmingly fantastic.

Ariau is located approximately 35 kilometers north-west of Manaus, Brazil. In order to reach the resort, you must arrive at Manaus Airport and be transported to a ferry landing, of sorts. During the low water months (October - January), you have to cross a small expanse of beach, in order to board the ferry. During the high water months (pretty much the rest of the year), guests can walk directly onto the boat.

The ferry ride, from the south side of the Rio Negro (which is one of the Amazon's two major tributaries) to the north side, can take 1 to 3 hours, depending on water level. At the end of the dry season (June through November), the water runs much slower than during the rainy season (December through May). The ride that I took, in late December, took close to two and a half hours. At the height of rainy season, though, the ride takes less than an hour.

Members of Ariau's staff load guests' luggage onto the ferry, while a guide begins explaining some of the history of the Amazon. Once the boat powers away from the dock, guests are granted the rare opportunity to be completely surrounded by the dark, deep waters of the famous river. Black dolphins can be sighted, not far off, and the riverbank is loaded with lush vegetation. Snacks, beer and soda are available at the ferry's "snack bar," if the view makes you hungry.

During the rainy season, the ferry will often pass through a thunderstorm, or two. Be prepared to get a little wet, since the ferry doesn't provide much shelter from the rain. Heavy plastic tarps can be unrolled, to cover the sides of the boat, but they don't protect very well. The storms are amazing, though, and I recommend standing on the upper deck, where the hot-pink streaks of lightning can be viewed without obstruction. As my mother used to say, "You're not going to melt, if you get wet."

Arrival at Ariau is organized, but not fancy. Guests are helped onto a catwalk, where they are directed to the main tower for check-in. The resort's almost 4-miles' worth of catwalks are permanently set on stilts, which lift them above the water level, year-round. During the months when the water is very low, this means that guests are walking around about 40 feet in the air. If you're afraid of heights - be warned!

Check-in is held in the main tower, where the dining hall is also located. In the current Ariau setup, there are six towers, which contain the guestrooms, reception area, dining hall and meeting sites. Each tower is built around a tree, giving the "buildings" a round appearance. All towers are multi-leveled and one has, I believe, 5 or 6 floors. Standard guestrooms have private bathrooms, small screened-in "decks," queen-size beds, mini-fridges and locking doors. One tower has central air conditioning. Larger suites are also available, on a very limited basis. The larger suites are expensive, though, and I didn't see the point in spending the additional money. I found my basic room, in the air-conditioned tower, to be more than adequate.

There are two small pools, a couple of service counters (where beer, soda and bottled water is for sale), and plenty of hammocks for relaxing in. Ariau is arranged in such a way that, if you want to read in a hammock for two weeks, you can comfortably do so. Walking along the catwalks is an adventure, in itself, with paths winding through the canopy of trees, leading to various "landings." For the New Age traveler, Ariau has constructed a large glass-and-steel pyramid, covered in vines and flowers. Remove your shoes and enter the air-conditioned temple, complete with meditation pillows and crystals. A "UFO Landing Site" and "Fountain of Youth" can also be found, deep in the rainforest.

Tourists and Ariau staff share the resort with four different breeds of monkey, macaws (brightly colored parrots) and various other Amazon fauna. Yes, there are snakes, spiders, lizards and a million different insects. No, they do not infest everything. During low water months, most of the spiders and snakes remain on the ground, rarely venturing up to the level of the resort. During high water months, these same creatures seek out dry land, so there may be more insects to contend with, especially at night.

Ariau makes it very easy to get psychologically "lost" in the rainforest, by arranging for guided excursions that are not very physically taxing. Guests are invited to go piranha fishing (if you catch a big one, the dining hall will cook it up for you), visit a native village, take a nature hike (whatever you do, do NOT climb any vines!), and go hunting for cayman (a cross between an alligator and a crocodile). If you tire of these excursions and just want to relax, no one will require you to move, if you don't want to.

Ariau also provides three meals a day, all of which are served buffet-style. The food is good and guests are given a lot of opportunities to try local flavors, such as regional fish and fruit.

My favorite part of Ariau is the monkeys. They will walk with you, hold onto you, play with you and sit on you. They are slightly domesticated, since some of Ariau's staff feed them on a daily basis, and they do not bite unless they are provoked. If you spend fifteen minutes with one of these amazing animals, there will be no doubt in your mind that we developed from them.

There are some cautions that I must state, here, because many guests forget that they are in the rainforest, not very close to civilization:

1) There is no hot water. At the end of the day, the water tanks have been warmed by the sun, but usually the sink and shower water is pretty chilly. If you can't live without a hot shower for a few days, you probably want to skip this trip.

2) Bring insect repellant with DEET. For a week, the chemicals won't hurt you, and you'll be grateful to not have any bug bites.

3) Get fully vaccinated, at least a month before your trip.

4) Bring first-aid basics, such as an ace bandage, cortisone cream, antibiotic ointment, bandaids, chewable Pepto Bismol and Maalox (family-sized boxes).

5) Bring the highest level sunscreen that you can find. I highly recommend BullFrog brand. It comes in SPF 36 gel and it works incredibly well.

6) Invest in MedJet. For $175 per person (for a one-year membership), MedJet becomes your emergency rescue team and will pick you up anywhere and return you to the United States. The jet is chartered, so you only have to give them about 24 hours notice, and the planes are staffed and equipped for medical care. If you have a medical emergency that requires hospitalization, MedJet will make sure that you are returned to your home medical facility.

Had I not experienced a medical emergency, in the rainforest, I would never have learned about MedJet. My partner broke his arm and needed immediate medical attention. When anyone tells you that "developing country's" medical care is "far below" American standards, s/he is underestimating! This is one of those cases of "better safe, than sorry."

Ariau is not for everyone. If you are looking for a beach-front resort, with lots of amenities and plenty of social life, this is the wrong place for you. If you are tied to your hairdryer and make-up, maybe you shouldn't visit the rainforest. But, if you are looking for ultimate relaxation, with a little adventure thrown in, then Ariau is an outstanding choice. The air is the purest in the world, here, and there are over 5,000 shades of green in the forest. As you gently sway with the trees, you will be instantly lulled into a feeling of peace and health. Time stands still, allowing you to absorb all of the nature surrounding you. You will sleep better than you ever have, your lungs and body will thank you for the infusion of oxygen, and your eyes will open wide in awe at the sheer beauty of this place.

Ariau sells packages that include a basic room, three meals a day and all excursions, for about $100 per person per day.

P.S. Ariau Amazon Towers is a Brazilian-based hotel, so standard American ideas about legal issues do not apply. My partner broke his arm in four places, while on the hotel's guided hike. Six hours later, we were finally taken to a clean medical facility and the arm was set in a temporary cast. Ariau paid for the initial cast, but the owner of the hotel has refused to compensate us for any additional damages.

Recommended: Yes