Kia Ora Sauvage ~ Paradise at the End of the World 300BHitW W/O
Written: Nov 18 '02
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Product Rating:
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Pros: An amazing little paradise that will change your life.
Cons: This paradise might not be for some.
The Bottom Line: The Kia Ora Sauvage is as close as you can get to being on a stranded island, but with great food!
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| twunschl's Full Review: Kia Ora Sauvage |
. . . it has been the most amazing two days. We have so many fabulous memories and I can just imagine telling stories about this experience until we are in our 80's
- May 28, 2002, from my journal
At the south end of the atoll, Rangiroa, there is this amazing little island where paradise truly exists. There is no electricity on the island, no hot water and water that comes out of the tap is 30% salt water. There are at least 30 sharks that can be seen right off shore at any given time. After your stay on this oasis, you will hold the island and it's host, Michael, in your heart for the rest of your life.
Now, for those of you who know me, you know that a place with no electricity and no hot water, is definitely not my idea of a good time. I consider camping going to the Holiday Inn with no room service. If there is a five star hotel any where in the area, I am there. When choosing accommodations for our Tahitian vacation, I had read so many stories about the Sauvage. I had never read a bad comment about the Sauvage and I decided when I booked our vacation to include two nights.
The Boat Transfer from the Village to the Sauvage
At 8:30 in the morning, there was a knock on our overwater bungalow door. I opened the door and there was a porter to take our bags. I told him which bags we were taking to the Sauvage and I told him that our large suitcase was staying. The hotel stores your large baggage until you return from the Sauvage. I finished putting a few things together and we slowly made our way over to the boat dock. We were told that the boat leaves the dock at 9am. Something that I wish we had done, was to leave our passport, money and other valuables in a safety deposit box. You will not need any of these items while you are at the Sauvage.
We walked down to the end of the boat dock and took a seat under the gazebo. Only a few short minutes later, we saw a man pulling a large trailer. As he got closer, I realized that he must have had items to go to the Sauvage. Just behind him was the porter that had collected our luggage. We asked the man who had the trailer if that was all of our food. He replied, "Yes. Every day it is the same thing, lots of bread, beer and ice." I guess that is all you need in paradise! He also put on another cooler that I assumed had the perishable food and a whole case of water.
As 9 o'clock approached, two other couples came to the dock. There are only 5 couples permitted on the island at one time. We learned that all five bungalows were going to be occupied during our stay. We boarded the boat and were off for the hour long trip to the Sauvage.
The trip was nice and relaxing. If you get seasick, make sure that you take a Dramamine before you leave. I did not have any trouble, but the boat driver said that it was a very calm day. On the way there, we all became acquainted with each other. We talked the entire way there and exchanged stories about the different things that we had heard about our upcoming stay. Along the way, the driver slowed the boat and pointed out a pod of dolphins. As the small islands behind us disappeared, the islands in the foreground became larger. As we got closer to Sauvage, we saw Michael's boat pull away from the island to greet us.
The Transfer to the small boat and the Greeting
We pulled up closer to the island and we could see why the boat was coming out to greet us. There was a small coral reef and sand bar that protected the island and prohibited large boats from entering the lagoon, within the lagoon. We all hopped onto Michael's little boat. Michael immediately made everyone feel at ease. He told us that "Everything is normally perfect here. The only problem will be supporting me during your stay." Michael was always joking, and I mean always. He is fantastic. He asked everyone how long they were staying and then explained to us that there were couples that were leaving and that he never rushes anyone to get out of their bungalow. He went on to say that it would be exactly the same for us when we leave. The boat slowly cruised through the lagoon and we pulled up to the island. We hopped into the shallow, hot water and walked up to the shaded picnic tables where fresh, iced juice was waiting for us.
Our bungalow
After a very short time, Michael called us to escort us to our bungalow. There are only 5 bungalows on the island. Two of them are on the inner lagoon side, near the coral reef, just past the dining room. These rooms have a view of the moonrise and the sunrise. The other three bungalows are all along the lagoon. They have a view of the sunrise, sunset and have excellent snorkeling right out front. We walked up to our bungalow and immediately noticed the hammock hanging between two palm trees. Next to the palm frond roofed bungalow, you would have sworn you just arrived on Gilligan's Island! We walked up the two steps that were made out of tree stumps onto the front deck. We kicked off our sandy water shoes and walked into our new home.
The main focus of the room is the bed covered in mosquito netting. At the foot of the bed is a tree that has been varnished and towers over the room. The idea was to make it look like the bungalow was built around it and it was very effective. At each side of the bed, there was a small bedside table. I found this to be kind of odd because there was only one entrance into the mosquito netting. The table on the other side was literally unreachable. On each table there was a dish with a mosquito coil. The extra mosquito coils are in a box labeled "fish food". We never needed to open the box because a new coil was put in the dish each day for you. On the top of the table was my favorite little joke. There was a lamp with a plant in it. Since there is no electricity, I guess that is only thing to do with a lamp! The other items in the room were a single day bed, desk and chair and an open closet with shelves. Oddly enough, there was a blanket in the closet. We felt heat coming off of it just looking at it.
At the back of the bungalow was the doorway to the bathroom. Now, you notice that I didn't say DOOR. There is no door on the bathroom. There were some shells hanging on strings, but they were pulled to the side. If you are at all modest about things that happen in the bathroom, you will get over that modesty very quick. As you step down the tree stumps made into steps, you enter the bathroom. You will again think that you have landed on Gilligan's Island. The floor is all broken coral and there are some odd shaped stepping stones in front of the toilet and then in a path to the sink and shower. The sink is made from a very large clamshell and fits perfectly with the "I am stranded on a deserted island" theme. There is a large mirror over the sink and a small wooden counter top. The shower is a large tiled area with a single faucet on the water, just to remind you that there is only one temperature, COLD. The toilet is out in the open, the only screening for privacy are a few coconuts on the floor that have trees growing out of them. So in other words, there is no privacy for the toilet.
Out on the small deck in the front, there were two comfortable sling chairs and a small table in between. We pulled the chairs out onto the beach our first night and never moved them back. The breeze at night was so nice and the view of the stars at night was breathtaking. The other nice feature on the deck was yet another varnished tree. This tree had many branches left on it and we used it to hang all of our wet clothing and towels. Next to the steps leading up to the deck, there is a small faucet to rinse off your feet. As I looked around, I realized that the other bungalows were close, but that I could not see them. They had been built and perfectly positioned so that you were completely secluded.
Joe the Dog
One of the main attractions of the island is Joe the dog. He loves affection and he won't let you forget it. His other favorite love is to chase the sharks. Michael will throw food in the water to attract the sharks and then give Joe the signal to go. He runs into the water and chases after the sharks until they are all scared away. He went on both of our excursions with us and got a seat right on the boat, going from person to person looking for attention. If you are a dog person, you will love Joe. If you aren't a dog person, he will make you become one.
A Typical Day at the Sauvage
Although it never seemed structured, there was a definite schedule at the Sauvage. Since our day was so relaxed and we were never rushed, it wasn't until I sat down to write this part of the review that I realized that there is a schedule.
7:00am - Breakfast
Breakfast begins at 7 in the morning. This is the only meal of the day that everyone doesn't sit down at one time. You can arrive for breakfast at your leisure. While we were there, about half of us arrived at 7 o'clock and on both days, all of the guests had arrived and finished eating by 8:30. Both days, we had the most delicious, creamy pancakes that I have ever eaten. On the table were watermelon, grapefruit, cereal, milk, juice, coffee and tea. Since I drink a lot of water during the day, I asked for water and it was gladly brought out. There is no end to the pancakes, so don't feel shy about asking for more. A couple that left a day before said that they had eggs for breakfast.
After Breakfast until 10 am
This time is for yourself. You can do whatever you like. There are three outriggers and you can borrow them to take to another island. Definitely ask Michael before you go out if he can show you how to use the outrigger. There is a definite science. During this time, we generally sat at the picnic tables outside of the dining room and talked with our newfound friends, Greg and Tammy. The breeze was so nice here and we enjoyed talking the morning away. We saw other people snorkeling, collecting shells and snorkeling or we simply did not see them at all.
10 am - The Newbies Arrive
At ten o'clock each day, the boat comes into sight with the new arrivals and your provisions of food and water for the next 24 hours. It was fun to watch Michael go out and greet the boat and wonder what the new guests would think of the Sauvage. After only one night, I felt like the seasoned veteran. The new arrivals came with all of the apprehension and questions that we had the day before. I don't know how Michael does it everyday. He told us that all new guests are only allowed five questions. Try to keep it to zero and he will like you much more.
11 am - The Veterans Depart
Since you need to vacate your bungalow so the new guests can get into their room, everyone naturally migrates to the main area near the dining room. Each day, there were tears and addresses exchanged. It is very typical for Michael to call the Village on his two way radio to see if there is an opening for another night. Guests just don't want to leave. There is a logbook on the bar that all guests sign with their thoughts and well wishes. As you flip through the book, you will see about every language written and you will again realize how many lives Michael and the Sauvage have touched.
12:30pm - Lunch
By about 12:30, everyone has made their way back to the dining room for lunch. If someone is not there to eat, Michael will do one of two things. He will blow the conch shell to remind you, or he will know that you are not in the mood to eat. Michael is a master at reading his guests and he will know if you have either just forgotten lunch or if you want to be forgotten at lunch.
We were so impressed with our spread at lunch. Everything is served family style and there were typically two plates of each item, enough for five people at each end of the table. Our first day we had couscous salad, deviled eggs, pork chops, sausage, tomato mozzarella salad, marinated fish salad and fresh pineapple and watermelon. The second day, we had tuna sashimi, the most amazing marinated mushrooms (we all ate them up so fast, Michael's wife made another batch), salad greens with corn, red cabbage and pineapple, fried fish and fresh watermelon and grapefruit. Meals were always a good time as the conversations jumped from introductions to general kidding around. If we were too quiet, Michael would come out of the kitchen and tell us not to be so quiet.
After lunch until 3pm
This time was again our own. While we were there, it was unusually hot and there was no breeze. The only way to stay cool was to have a cold beer with friends, or to get in the water to cool off. Just outside of the bungalows, the little island is protected by a small coral reef and there is a pass into the lagoon in front. The snorkeling is nice here and we saw fish of all shapes and sizes. The one day, I saw a large fish feeding at the bottom. I turned around, caught my husband's attention, motioned with my hands that there was something big, over there. He understood my underwater hand singles and he started to follow me. To my surprise, the big fish had been replaced by a really big fish; a six foot black tip reef shark. He came into the lagoon, looked around, saw nothing interesting and left. Michael told me that in the winter months when the water is cooler, there are sometimes up to 30 manta rays that will come into the little lagoon. What a sight that must be!
3pm - Activity Time!
This is the highlight of the day. Each day, Michael plans a special activity. Anyone who wants to go can go, and if you don't; well you don't go. But you will be missing out on the whole experience and beauty of the trip is you don't go on these wonderful excursions. Some of the activities that I have heard from other guests were a trip to the Blue Lagoon, a trip to an area where there many tiny islands and each couple went to their own private island, snorkeling and spear fishing. The two most popular activities are the shark feeding "ala Michael" and a trip to Reef Island. We were lucky enough to do both.
Shark Feeding
If you are going to another island where they offer shark feeding, do not do it. Wait until you get to the Sauvage and do it Ala Michael style. For one thing it is included with your stay and there is no extra charge. For another thing, you won't get as close to the action as you will at the Sauvage. Michael had us put all of our things that we didn't need in the boat. We were to swim out a little ways to the boat that Michael took out into the small lagoon in front of the Sauvage. The sharks are very used to Michael's boat and as soon as he takes it out, the sharks follow. As we swam closer and closer to the boat, more and more sharks surrounded us. It was scary and exhilarating and fun all at the same time. Once we were all in front of the boat, Michael started throwing pieces of fish into the water. All of the sharks, (now there were about 30 of them) swam quickly through the water and they all swarmed around when there was food in the water. I had quite a few swim directly under me (all I could think was, "float, float, float") and I almost screamed when one ran right into my husband's leg. We had bought an underwater video camera case for our video camera and as my husband was filming, a shark ran right into the camera! It makes for amazing footage to impress our friends. Once the feeding was finished, we all swam up to the boat and climbed in. Michael dropped us off at the island "next door". We all walked around the island or vegged out on the beach. It started raining and we really felt stranded as we all hung out under palm trees. Michael's plan had been ruined. He wanted to pick us up and drive back as the moon rose over the petrified coral, but Mother Nature didn't go along.
Reef Island
Reef Island is located about 20 minutes by boat from the Sauvage. The area is made up of many tiny islands that are all connect by channels of water. Some of the channels are only knee deep while others are shoulder deep. As you walk along the islands, your ultimate goal is to get to the ocean side where all of the coral there is petrified. The coral stands six foot above you in some places and you could imagine yourself being underwater. There were some pieces of coral that looked lace. The walk is not hard, but you definitely need water shoes or sandals to protect your feet. The entire walk was on hard, flat coral or on broken pieces of white coral. Once you reach the ocean side, the view is awesome. There was a rainbow and mist that hugged the coastline that looked like it went on forever and ever. As the sun started to dip, we made our way back to the sand bar in front of the set of islands. Sharks swam by, there was a rainbow and then the most amazing sunset happened as the entire sky turned orange and pink. The ocean reflected the colors and we all wondered how lucky we had to be to experience this remarkable event in the middle of nowhere. Just as the sun touched the horizon, Michael came into view and we headed back to our island paradise.
6pm until 7pm
When you return from your activities, the sun has already gone out of view. Your oil lanterns have magically appeared in your room while you were away and pulling up to the island, the orange glow from the bungalows is very inviting. Too bad those oil lamps can't heat the water though. It is now time to take a REALLY cold shower. I usually started by standing as far away from the water as I could and just rinsing my hair. After my hair was washed and an entire bottle of conditioner was put in my hair (the saltwater was very drying) I knew that there was no more stalling and it was time to get myself wet. All of the brochures say that it is "sun warmed" water but it was always cold. You did get used to it after a while and if you were hot, it was refreshing. The only problem that I had was getting used to the salt water and feeling sticky when I got out. By the second night, it wasn't as bad, but I would have liked some of those disposable body wipes to clean up when I was done. Once we were both done with our showers and changed, we tended to go to the dining room to enjoy a "house drink" before dinner.
7pm - Dinner
In the dining room, there are three very large couches that provide ample seating for the ten guests. We all enjoyed each other's company so much, that we all came to the dining room and enjoyed the "house drink". We decided that the house drink was whatever was available, since it changed every time, but it was always good. It was always cold and fruity. When dinner was ready, we all sat around the large table. Dinner was served to you instead passed family style like lunch. Our first night, we had ham and tomato quiche for an appetizer, breaded mahi mahi, potatoes and green beans for dinner and a heavenly peach cake for dessert. There was no entertainment our first night, so we sat around the table and talked for a while, then all said good night and headed to our rooms. I managed to fall asleep under the stars until my husband woke me up and we went to bed.
The next night was a very special treat and somewhat of a secret, so you can't tell anyone, OK. One of the quests that was staying with us was born in France and is a French chef. He owns a small French restaurant in West Hollywood, The Little Door. For the first time in Sauvage history, a guest was permitted to cook in the kitchen and he prepared dinner and dessert for us. We all knew about it all day long and none of us could wait for dinner. Dinner had been fabulous the night before, but we all understand what a special opportunity this was. We had a mahi mahi pate for an appetizer, a Polynesian version of an African stew and a marvelous apple tart with a crunchy caramel shell.
We found it incredible that our two best meals of our entire two week trip were prepared in a kitchen with no electricity and no running fresh water. Unless you are an extremely picky eater, you won't be disappointed with your meals at the Sauvage.
The Good-Bye
Before each guest departure, Michael and his wife play the ukulele and sing songs. Our goodbye was the night before our departure, but some guests got their goodbye right before the boat left in the morning. This is one of our favorite memories of the entire trip; listening to the songs and having Michael's special comments in between. The last was their "thank you" song and you will never forget it.
Leaving the Sauvage and returning to civilization
The boat leaves each day at 11 in the morning. Michael takes you out on his boat to meet the large boat docked in the big lagoon. He gives each guest a hug goodbye and thanks you for the stay. Again, as the island that was your home becomes smaller and the Kia Ora Village becomes larger you realize that many specials memories were just made. Memories that you will cherish for the rest of your life.
The rest of this review is to help those of you who have the amazing chance to stay at the Sauvage.
What you need to know before you go
One of the main things that you need to know is that you must stay for at least one night at the Kia Ora Village at the beginning of your stay on Rangiroa. The boat for the Sauvage leaves early in the morning and there isn't a flight to Rangiroa early enough to allow you to catch the boat. When you leave the Sauvage, I highly recommend that you stay another night at the Kia Ora Village. There are flights that leave late enough in the afternoon that you could fly out after you arrive back at the Village, but after a few days of a cold saltwater shower, all we wanted was a hot shower and air conditioning. I have heard rumors that the hotel will give you a room to take a shower when you return from the Sauvage, but I cannot confirm this.
You will only be able to take carry-on sized luggage to the Sauvage. The hotel will come to your room about a half hour before the boat leaves to collect your large luggage. They will store it for you while you are gone. So when you are packing for your vacation, make sure that you have a carry-on that will hold all of your things for your stay.
The main food at the Sauvage is fish. There was some meat served at lunch, but dinner is always fish. If you do not eat fish, contact the hotel before your stay. They will make note of it and they will send meat along with the boat. I am sure that the same thing is true for vegetarians. Do not wait until you arrive on Rangiroa though, make the arrangements early and remind the hotel when you check in.
All of the bungalows are the same basic design inside, but have a little different style on the outside. I don't think that there is any requesting of bungalows. Michael just simply picked a couple and took them to their room. All of them are completely private and I am sure that you can find good and bad characteristics for each bungalow. Just go with the flow and go to your room. If there is another bungalow that you like better and the couple is leaving the next day, you can ask the host if you can move. A few couples did this while we were there.
All of your food is included in your stay. You will be charged an extra 16,720CFP per couple for all of your food each day. Each couple is given a 1.5 liter bottle of water for each day. The water and juice that is placed on the table is also included. So make sure that you drink a lot of water at the meals because 1.5 liters is not enough for two people. You will pay extra for beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks. The prices are the same as the Kia Ora Village; expensive.
There are no locks on the doors. If you are uncomfortable with this, consider getting a safety deposit box at the Village to store your valuables.
Things to bring with you
A flashlight or a halogen lamp - The island is very dark and the two oil lamps in your room provided just enough light so you can see each other.
Deep Woods Bug Spray - Normal bug spray does not work, the mosquitoes just laughed at it and bite anyway.
Good camera - There is a picture opportunity at every turn.
An underwater camera - The shark feeding is unbelievable.
Waterproof, strong sun block - You will spend almost every waking moment outside.
Snorkel, mask and fins - If you don't have your one, make sure to borrow the equipment from the activities desk at the Kia Ora Village. There is no equipment to borrow at the Sauvage.
Water shoes - I strongly recommend that you bring water shoes, not Tevas or sandals, water shoes. The "coral" beaches are actually beaches made of tennis ball sized coral. It sounds like walking on broken plates. The water shoes help to protect the top of your feet. The water surrounding the Sauvage is full of big coral and sea cucumbers also.
Disposable Body wipes - We would have liked to have something to wipe off the salt water once we got out of the shower. The one day it was drizzling and it was hard to dry off.
Water - You are supplied with some water, but it is better to be safe.
Break open ice pack - Or something else to cool you off, just in case it is hot. Those pouches that you squeeze to make the inside cold or a battery operated fan would have been a lifesaver.
Star Map - If you are into stars, you will see so many stars and they will be unfamiliar to you since you are in the southern hemisphere. http://www.skymaps.com/index.html has a monthly update with a two page printable map. Make sure that you select the Southern Hemisphere.
A good sense of humor - Your entire stay will include laughing.
A great sense of adventure - Go with the flow, do everything and enjoy every moment.
Things that you shouldn't bring with you
An umbrella - there is one in your room
Shampoo and conditioner - There is a large supply in the bathroom
Anything that is valuable or may get damaged by water
Anything that requires electricity
Food of any kind - Your room is completely open to the environment. Leave your food in your luggage that you will leave at the Village or throw it away before you leave for the Sauvage.
Fancy clothes of any kind - Everything is extremely casual here. Bathing suits are the norm for breakfast and lunch. The only time that we saw any one dressed was at dinner. I felt dressed up in a black tank and khaki shorts. Even pants are frowned upon at the Sauvage.
For pictures and video of our trip, visit my website
www.tahiti.wunschl.com
Read my other reviews from our French Polynesia Trip
Moorea
http://www.epinions.com/content_70580276868
Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort
http://www.epinions.com/content_66105675396
Bora Bora
http://www.epinions.com/content_66986806916
Sofitel Motu
http://www.epinions.com/content_66291601028
Rangiroa
http://www.epinions.com/content_66400063108
Kia Ora Village
http://www.epinions.com/content_2687869060
Kia Ora Sauvage
http://www.epinions.com/content_2691276932
Tahiti
http://www.epinions.com/content_66968260228
Tahiti Beachcomber Inter-Continental
http://www.epinions.com/content_66996309636
Sheraton Tahiti
http://www.epinions.com/content_66102398596
And for more great reviews, read LordBalfor's reviews and visit his website at
http://community.webshots.com/user/lordbalfor
This is my submission to the 300 Best Hotels in the World Write Off. Please read these other submissions too.
ifif1938
lyagushka
Megugrrrl
Jo.com
Jetbluefan1
Grey002
tombarnes (host)
Recommended:
Yes
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twunschl
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Location: Wishing I was back in Tahiti
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