Thistle Caledonian Aberdeen? Aye, Lads and Lassies!
Written: Apr 17 '03 (Updated Apr 17 '03)
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Pros: convenient, clean, quiet, historic, friendly
Cons: rooms a bit cramped
The Bottom Line: After an evening of vindaloo curry and pub-crawling, check into the Thistle Caledonian and see if you see Elrond anywhere!
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| scmrak's Full Review: Thistle Aberdeen Caledonian |
Perhaps barring haggis, which I must admit I know only by reputation, I rather like most things Scottish. Single-malts warm more than just my belly, the skirl of the pipes will always raise the hair on the back of my neck. It could be in the blood, for my mother and her kith 'n' kin are mainly of that Appalachian stock sometimes called "Scotch-Irish." Mom even has a Scottish maiden name, though you'll not pry it out of me in a public forum.
So it was that I was pleased with a chance to visit the home of golf and whisky without an 'e,' even if it did mean working a string of twelve-hour days in a client's stuffy office. Given that it was summer and the sun stayed up well past my bedtime at that high latitude, I knew I'd have time to explore in the evenings. My client suggested the Caledonian Thistle as the most convenient location, as it was but three or four blocks away. "Works for me," I said.
Did It Work for Me? Yup.
The Caledonian Thistle is near the heart of Aberdeen's bustling business district, a short walk from that city's central train station and a few minute's drive (seven miles) from the Aberdeen airport. The 80-room hotel sits facing Union Terrace Gardens, a tree-spotted greensward in one of the oldest parts of the city, liberally planted with festive flowers.
The hotel itself is housed in a hundred-year-old building, or probably two or three connected buildings. The building is, like most of Aberdeen's commercial edifices, constructed of gray granite blocks that look dreary on rainy days but come alive with sparkling mineral flecks in even the faintest sunlight. There's a cheery blue awning over the front door to show that you've reached your destination, otherwise the hotel quietly blends in with the other buildings on Union Terrace.
Inside I received a warm reception from the desk clerks and a massive old key. I rode the tiny lift to my room on the third floor, trundled my suitcase to the end of the hall, and stepped inside. The room was, by "big chain" standards, quite cozy, real-estate and hotel-speak for "small." My single room held a double bed, a wardrobe, a small desk with a television set, and a side chair in one corner. There wasn't much more space left over after all that! The room may have been small, but it was well-laid out, with the bathroom carved out of one corner of the space. I did have the advantage of having windows on two sides, though most of my view was of the roofs of the buildings behind and adjacent to the hotel. Besides the television (with in-room movies and on a satellite system) and a telephone, Thistle also provided a clothes press for freshening coats and trousers, and a hair dryer in the bathroom. Even though the building is historic - as evidenced by gorgeous turn-of-the-century craftsmanship in the public areas - the bathroom proved bright and modern.
My room was comfortable throughout my two-week stay, and was clean and quiet at all times. Heavy draperies served to keep out the early and late sun - full dark lasted from about 11:00 PM to 3:00 AM when I was there in early July.
Public Areas: Where are the Elves?
The Caledonian's lobby bears no resemblance to the echoing marble-floored ultramodern hotels I so often use in the States. Here, everything is carpeted in subdued colors, with wainscotted walls and heavy use of highly polished wood. Old photographs and paintings of fishermen and golfers, kilted locals, and long-dead monarchs grace the walls. The lobby restaurants are painted cheerily and feature friendly waitstaff. I scarfed down more than one English-style breakfast in Elrond's restaurant, and enjoyed a few "wee draps" of peaty liquor in Elrond's Bar whilst watching a football game with some Mexican visitors. Elrond himself wasn't around, nor were any of the Fellowship or - at this my heart breaks - Ariel. I'd guess they were in New Zealand filming the next installment...
The Neighborhood
The Caledonian Thistle is right downtown in this compact city, so you won't be wanting for entertainment. Pubs are available in almost every direction, though some of the most fun ones are across Union Terrace in Old Aberdeen, near the University of Aberdeen. There's a wealth of shopping nearby, especially along Union Street, where you can find several little groceries and a few more pubs. A shopping center with all the usual mall shops - clothing, books, records, a pub or two - is opposite the point where Union Terrace forms a T with Union Streeet. Over in Old Aberdeen I found a shop that would rent me a kilt or tailor-make one in the family plaid, but I demurred, having no formal occasion during my stay. I did find family crests or plaid samples for Mom, my mother-in-law, and my father-in-law.
Restaurants are everywhere, with some of my favorite cuisines - I feasted on fiery vindaloo curries, Thai food, and more than a few English-style breakfasts. I lacked the courage, though, to try the nearest Mexican restaurant. There are pubs galore, too - check out the Nile, a few blocks to the right from the corner of Union and Union Terrace) for Tuesday(?) night trivia contests; a few also have live music especially on weekend nights.
The central train station is two minutes away should you wish to take a train out to a distillery (or three) for a tour; a car-rental office or two are also nearby. Check at the Caledonian's front desk for details. The city's central library is about a block away, and a post office is also nearby (again, get directions from the front desk). Several museums and very historic churches are also within just a few minutes' walk. You'll note that I almost always walked, parking is at a premium in the area, and the hotel itslef has very limited parking somewhere in the reas.
A little further afield - perhaps a walk of a mile down Union Street - you'll find a rocky seacoast and get a glimpse of the cold, grey North Sea. On a clear day you might be able to see some of the heavy shipping traffic. The Port of Aberdeen, which lies on the mouth of the River Dee, is only a few blocks away from the hotel, too. It's on the opposite side of Union Street, behind and downhill from the shopping mall.
Overall
This is a warm and welcoming hotel, with friendly and attentive staff. Though my room was small, I suspect it was because my secretary had booked me for a day earlier (I guess she thought my trans-Atlantic flight would take only three hours) and they weren't expecting me. Co-workers who've also stayed there assure me that most of the rooms are more spacious, though they're all rather tight by North American standards (we, who invented urban sprawl). Though centrally located, the hotel refuses admission to the hustle and bustle of the streets outside, remaining clean and quiet. Recommended to all visitors to Aberdeen!
This is an entry in the Great Hotels Writeoff hosted by tombarnes and lyagushka. For more info on the writeoff, visit either profile pages. Great hotels, great writeoff!
Recommended:
Yes
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