Get a big mug, and pour two

Under the radar.

Isenbeck Dark is hard to find in the U.S. I've seen it on draft once (and availed myself of it, you bet), at Johansson's Dining House in Westminster, MD, and I've seen the bottles a few places, most recently at Beers of the World in Rochester, NY, where I got the bottle I'm drinking now. It's not "The best beer in the world!!", but it sure makes a good drink.

I don't know much about the Paderborner Isenbeck brewery, other than it's evidently closely affiliated with the Warsteiner brewery, home of Germany's best-selling pils, Warsteiner Premium Verum. Isenbeck is imported by Warsteiner's U.S. arm, Warsteiner Importers, in Lombard, IL, so maybe it's more available in the midwest. Lucky dogs.

Okay, why do I like this beer so much? It's hard to explain. It is not hoppy, there's hardly any hop character at all. It's dark, but not black, more a kind of chestnut. It's not overly malty, like a doublebock. And no one will ever be bowled over by this beer.

The thing is, this is never a beer you'd want to have just one of and quit. I'm going to go have another for fun after I'm done teasing the qualities out of this one. This is a beer to drink while laughing with friends, arguing music with buddies, dancing with your wife, enjoying a big buffet dinner.

Isenbeck Dark will never intrude on a conversation ("Excuse me, what you're saying is really interesting, but... damn, this beer is good!"), never make you hold it up and say "Wow, what is in this beer?!" But, much like another slyly smooth dark German I love, Kostritzer Schwarzbier, Isenbeck Dark will mysteriously disappear from your glass, and you'll never think twice about having another. I never think twice about having the first. It's a beer you can have anytime.

Is it bland? Like really good mashed potatoes. It's complementary to life, this beer, never gets in the way, just makes things better. It does this unspectacular job very well, and there's a lot to be said for that. I'll say this: I am going to have another!


Recommended: