'I am in the process of conversion to the idea that Highland Park is the only whisky worth drinking, and Johnnie Walker only for selling to deluded sassenachs.' (Sassenach is a derogatory slang term for a non-Scot, especially the British). Such a testimonial would hardly be memorable had it not be penned by Alan Walker, a member of the clan that produces Johnnie Walker. Hyperbole aside, Highland Park does have many distinctions.
Most Northerly
Highland Park is only one of two distilleries on the Orkney Islands, a 70-island archipelago at the far northwest corner of the British Isles. Located a half-mile closer to Greenland than rival Scapa, Highland Park narrowly wins the latitude prize.
The Orkneys are a rugged and magical place, swept by the North Sea. The rolling meadows are alive with primrose and heather during the long summer days. A study in contrasts, paradise turns savage with the change of seasons. With scarcely six hours of pale sunlight during the winter months, the damp chill pierces your soul. What better argument can you possibly have for drinking a good whisky?
It is also a place of storied history and superstitions galore. Neolithic sites abound with many a stone, henge, and cairn. The Norse clashed and mingled with the natives. Among the preternatural creatures, the most famous are the trows, the wicked (and perhaps undead) cousin to the reclusive leprechaun. Forget the pot of gold, these unsightly little creatures haunt the long nights, making merry and mischief.
Attention to Detail
The distillation process maintains a strong element of craft, which allows Highland Park to retain the unique local character. Highland Park is one of the few distilleries that still malts their own barley, drying in a kiln fired with peat hand-cut from a nearby moor. Unfortunately, demand and production costs limit the quantity of homemade malt to 20% of vats. The bulk of the malt comes from industrial sources, but is unpeated to avoid masking the flavor of the homegrown.
Highland Park matures about 10% of their whisky in sherry casks, the rest in bourbon casks. Several sources imply that a higher percentage of the sherry aged product goes into the single malts than in the blends such as The Famous Grouse. Obviously a trade secret, the exact numbers are difficult to come by.
Liquid Sunshine (and other sensory notes)
On to the nitty gritty. The 12-year-old Highland Park pours dark amber. There is no roughness to the nose when first poured if using a fluted glass. Concentrated in a snifter, there is a little bite, which dissipates rapidly. In the nose, the dominant note is a flowery sweetness, more heather honey than malt. There are also subtle notes of orange and peat.
In the mouth, this youngster is smooth. You have to hold a gulp in your mouth for quite some time before you get any discernible tingle. As with the bouquet, the dominant note is honey sweet, orange blossom or heather. With a faint buttery aftertaste, I detect something akin to caramel (the melted sugar syrup, not the candy bar variety). The peat tones are very soft, more to be found in the aftertaste, with a touch of orange. There is a hint of smoke in the aftertaste.
The finish is a long and lingering warmth, from gullet to stomach. Quite frankly, it is precisely this characteristic that holds the greatest appeal for me. This is the wool blanket for your insides to ward off the damp chill.
Why not five stars? A fair question, given that I mention nothing suggestive of a fault. True, there is not an unpleasant note to be found in any of the sensory characteristics. There is ample complexity. The best answer is simply a lack of definition. With the exception of very long finish, few notes are distinct or sharply defined enough to tempt me to a top rating.
Don’t misinterpret that statement as signifying a lack of enthusiasm. The soft lingering warmth of this single malt appeals to my palate in ways that few others do, regardless of price. I cannot promise that it will have the same appeal for you, but I strongly encourage you to try it on your own palate.
Webmaster of Distinction
I would also recommend a visit to the Highland Park website (http://www.highlandpark.co.uk). You can take a virtual tour of the distillery, find descriptions of all the Highland Park vintages, and shop online for glassware. The Frequently Asked Questions provides basic information about the production and offers a glimpse at the perverse side of Scot humor (“Q: Don't your cats use the malt as a giant litter tray? A: Our cats are very well trained.” That one made me glance twice at my glass.) The site also promotes the Orkneys with pictures, electronic postcards, and web links. If you hurry, you can also enter the drawing for a bottle of the 1958 vintage (the contest closes in December, 2000).
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