Wellington County Brewery, in Guelph, Ontario, deserves a much bigger reputation than it currently enjoys.

They are one of my favorite breweries in North America, something I do not say lightly. Beers like County Bitter and Arkell Best Bitter are two of the reasons: these beers drunk from cask are limpid beauties, beers with nothing in the way of pure sensory enjoyment.

And then there's The Duke: Wellington Imperial Stout. It is a big beer, 8%ABV, and the flavor is there to match, bitter, heavy, with a strong hint of burnt malt and coffee, tapering off to a muttering finish of hop and bitter chocolate. This is no beer to be having when you've thought to yourself "Hmmmm... I guess I'll have a beer." This is a beer to be opened after some small moment of consideration on whether you're ready for it.

But while I wouldn't want to eat venison stew every day, or smoked pork chops, or haggis, when the time is right, nothing else will do. This is a crave beer, and I don't know what I'm going to do: this was my last one. They don't export it. Canada's eight hours away.

For now I'll put that out of my mind, and focus on living each second of this bottle. Nearly pitch-black, with only the slightest hint of dark garnet at the thin edges, right up against a 60 watt bulb. Parchment-colored head, tenaciously clinging to the surface. Coffee/baker's chocolate nose (with a hint of the alcohol power beneath). Knuckles-in-the-lips punch of burnt toffee, caramel, bitter chocolate, and alcohol power. Lingering rough kiss of hops and slowly fading bitter chocolate.

Ah, leave me here, leave me here with this beer. The glass is only half-full, and its time is passing. I can see I must go to Canada.

Recommended: Yes