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Sears Kenmore Elite Dryer Won't Run If Start Button Released
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jeanneart Posted: Mar 31 '11,  7:29 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 31, 2011

Post: 274585
Sears Kenmore Elite dryers

I was considering buying a Sears Kenmore Elite at an estate sale, but after reading many of the posts, there's NO WAY I would take a chance! I am so glad I found this site, saving me much future aggravation. I wrote down at least a dozen model numbers that had problems with that starter button. How in the world has Sears continued to make this inferior product for 10 years & gotten away with it? It should be on 20/20 TV show as an expose! Has anyone seen anything-on the cover of Consumer's Reports or anywhere on TV, on this fiasco?

     
hlecter Posted: Apr 01 '11,  1:51 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 1, 2011

Post: 274681
Same :Problem

I have the same p;roblem with the PTS button shutting the dryer down once released.

I am willing to try to make Sears handle this.

Can someone provide a phone number for me to start with?

Thanks

Mike DeNiro

     
hlecter Posted: Apr 01 '11,  2:01 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 1, 2011

Post: 274682
RE: Same :Problem

Quote: hlecter
I have the same p;roblem with the PTS button shutting the dryer down once released.

I am willing to try to make Sears handle this.

Can someone provide a phone number for me to start with?

Thanks

Mike DeNiro



Can anyone tell me where to find the date of manufacture?
My landlord bought it from a previous tenant and doesn't have the original receipt or owner;s manual.

Would this situation preclude me from following up with Sears?
     
plainoldude Posted: May 17 '11,  8:44 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 17, 2011

Post: 276613
dryer wont stay on -- THE FIX

so your kenmore elite won't stay running? i had that problem with my dryer-- wouldn't stay on unless the start button was held down. after using a pile of books to lean on the button and keep the darn thing going, did some research. here's the consensus opinion on what's wrong. pretty simple fix really. more than likely it's the MOTOR RELAY SWITCH that's gone bad.

way to check this is as follows:

first... UNPLUG THE POWER CORD!

remove the control panel from the top of the machine (getting it off can be a biatch to figure out-- but i ran a putty knife under the front right and left edges of the panel and pushed toward the back... this releases a spring that holds the panel sides to the top of the dryer-- least on my machine it does). the entire panel should now tilt back on the hinges, or you can remove the hinges to completely remove the panel for working on.

inside you'll see the switches that control the various knobs, and two other mounted switches/boxes that look identical (each has four wires coming off it). on my machine the switch box mounted closest to the on-off switch is the motor relay (although my parts guide shows it just the opposite--idiots!) the switch mounted closer to the large timer knob is the heater relay switch. btw-- the MOTOR RELAY SWITCH part number for reference is #3405281. to see what the switch looks like, google "motor relay switch 3405281" and you should see examples.

best way to be sure the motor relay is bad is to take the heater and motor relay switches and swap them (be sure to make a wiring diagram for yourself so you can put the wires back in the right spots!) you won't have to hook up the heater relay wires to do this, just leave 'em hanging--but without touching metal!

PLUG IN THE DRYER

with the motor relay wires plugged into the heater relay the machine continued running after pushing the on-off button. many others in this forum got the same result. just don't leave the switches this way-- your heat won't work. put the heater relay back where you pulled it from and reconnect the wires. your problem is a bad motor relay. you can find this part for ten bucks with shipping if you look around. i got mine on ebay (type in "motor relay switch 3405281" and you should get results).

that should do her, folks. screw the sears repairman. this is an easy fix. good luck!



     
redonion53 Posted: Jun 17 '11,  4:39 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Jun 17, 2011

Post: 278218
Kenmore Elite Dryer

What a big help this website was!! We were ready to just purchase a new dryer, but stumbled onto this website and read all of the suggestions and thought it was worth trying it and saving hundreds of dollars. The numerous emails about this rampant problem with the PTS button is extremely eye-opening and bothersome, but the fact is we needed to have a working dryer!

Per the many suggestions, we first tried switching the relays but that wasn't the problem. We did some research on pricing of the circuit board and found that www.repairclinic.com was the ONLY vendor who would allow the part to be returned even if it was installed. This was very important to us because if this wasn't the problem, we didn't want to be out the cost of the board AND also have to purchase a new dryer. They also provide a $35 on your old part when you return it. I will be mailing that back to them today. I assume they refurbish it and sell it.

Like everyone has said, it was VERY easy to perform the relay test and also to then install the new circuit board. We took the suggestion of a few and watched the online instructional videos.

One other thing we learned was that our original part number for the circuit board had changed, so do alot of googling and you will find your part number.

We were nervous at first when reading all of the suggestions and comments because we didn't see our dryer model mentioned and it sounded like many of the blog posters had digital controls on their dryers, which is not what we have. Our dryer model is 11062952100 and all of what was suggested worked for our dryer. I hope that helps some of you.

Thanks to all (especially Bob)! When it's all tallied, we spent about $82 which is much cheaper than a new dryer!

     
nyle Posted: Jul 02 '11,  8:02 pm (Updated: Jul 02 '11,  9:00 pm)           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 19, 2005

Post: 279085
RE: Burned resistor (R1) - circuit board

Thank you so much. You just saved me $80 by letting me know about checking the relays by swapping them. I have a bad relay which is a $32 part versus a $80 board. I would have been out the $80 if not for your tip. It's too bad there isn't a way to really highlight important posts to other visitors because this could save people some headache and money.

Listen: Go to sears.com and search for you model number and you'll be able to find a parts diagram and break down. This lets you see where the relays and circuit board are.

NOTE: To open the top of the top panel dryers you usually insert a putty knife under either edge of the top panel until it contacts a metal snap down connector. Push a little harder and gently pull up and it will release on either site.

Some dryers have plastic front covers that pop off to reveal two screws which you remove but I believe the dryers everyone is talking about here require the putty knife. Mine does.

The beginning of this Youtube video is very helpful to remove the top of the dryer as well as more repair if you run into mechanical problems.

Click here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVoelV7M7Y

Then after reading more posts I found this one. Where you can buy the power relays for a song compared to an appliance store. Under $5 versus $39.

Quote: gators240
You can order relay 3405281 by the original Potter & Brumfield part number which is T9AP1D52-48-03 . It is available from www.jameco.com and other sources that sell P&B relays. Jameco sells it for $4.35 each (or $3.75 by the hundred).

Sears and Whirlpool Motor Relay 3405281 is the same as Heater Relay 3405281 which is a Potter & Brumfield part, number T9AP1D52-48-03. Go look closely at your own relay - it is printed there - you can check yourself.


So, if it's a relay problem replace both of them just to be sure it's taken care of and why not order a spare. Electronics gurus, tell me - if the relays fail could that put undue power to the circuit board? Should someone replacing the circuit board also spend the $10 and replace the power relays just to be certain?
     
nyle Posted: Jul 02 '11,  8:22 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 19, 2005

Post: 279086
RE: Kenmore Elite 110.63952101

Quote: pvreditor
Did you get a part number for that relay? If so, can you post it here? There are many people willing to install a $35 relay to get their dryers working again, even if it is for a few months.

--Bob


Take your model number and go to sears.com and search it. You should get a parts break down of your dryer. The power relays will be listed as well as the circuit board with part numbers. Then look around the Internet for a supplier that looks reputable for less than Sears.

I just ordered from Appliance Parts Experts, I hope the are good. The relay was like $39 with shipping.
     
nyle Posted: Jul 02 '11,  8:35 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 19, 2005

Post: 279087
RE: What board revision do people with the fried boards have?

If you are opening and replacing your dryer sensing circuit board can you please note the revision on this thread? Perhaps, after a certain revision, they have fixed most of the board problems and those with a later revision would know to concentrate on the relays first.

My board appears to be fine and the relays appear to be the problem. My PCB revision is REV D.

     
nyle Posted: Jul 03 '11,  6:58 am (Updated: Jul 03 '11,  7:00 am)           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 19, 2005

Post: 279100
RE: Major summary, save time read this.

Listen this thread is really long, so here is my summary. There appear to be three major problems that affect these dryers.

1.) Faulty power relays. These are little black boxes with wires connected to metal push slats on the back. There are two of them and they can easily be replaced by labeling the wires and using a screw driver to remove them. (I numbered them with notches clockwise with a Sharpie.) They are available for cheap.

Quote: gators240
You can order relay 3405281 by the original Potter & Brumfield part number which is T9AP1D52-48-03.

If you swap them and the dryer runs, then go ahead and replace both of them. (DO NOT USE THE DRYER UNTIL YOU DO.)

2.)Faulty Dryness Control Board. This is a little square electronics board that has a Whirlpool design flaw. In most cases you'll see burn marks near one of the resistors.(R1/R2) Apparently, they either used some low quality capacitors or two small of a resistor. If you smell burnt electronics it's likely the PCB. I personally vote for the capacitors. This was roughly the same time frame when some bootleg capacitors were sold to the computer industry. To replace this board, carefully grasp the plastic mounting stands and squeeze the top and bottom to release the pegs from their metal mount points. This board can currently be found for around $80 including shipping. (HINT: Don't remove the wires until you receive the new.)

3.)This is more involved but the first part should be done yearly. CLEAN the dryer out completely of lint. This is recommended by everyone and keeps your dryer working efficiently and safely. In the case of this dryer it can even cause the dryer to start, run for a while and then stop(overheat.) The video below shows you how to take apart the dryer and put it back together. I recommend cleaning it all thoroughly and seeing if that fixes the issue. While you have it apart you may want to also check the Thermistor which reads the temperature. You need to understand how to use a voltmeter to read the resistance.

Quote: _rpm_
To test the thermistor, remove it completely from the blower housing and connect an ohmmeter to the two terminals. You should get readings in the 10 kilohm range Now blow hot air on the thermistor. I used a hair dryer. The resistance should drop uniformly according to the resistance table on the technician sheet.


.....or if you put it back together and it still starts and stops, take a chance and spend the $20 and replace the thermistor.

Listen: Go to searspartsdirect.com and search for you model number and you'll be able to find a parts diagram and break down. This lets you see where the relays and circuit board are. There is also one for the thermistor location.

Here is mine - it shows all the parts in the panel and on the website the numbers are also described with part numbers.
click here

NOTE: To open the top of the top panel dryers you usually insert a putty knife under either edge of the top panel until it contacts a metal snap down connector. (Some have screws, see video)

This Youtube video is very helpful to remove the top of the dryer as well as to disassemble the main chassis.

Click here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVoelV7M7Y

If I missed anything, I'm sorry, you'll need to read 30 or so pages.... 8^D
     
pvreditor Posted: Jul 03 '11,  12:08 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 427
Member since: May 31, 2002

moderator in Cars, Musical Equipment, Home & Garden
Post: 279114
RE: Major summary, save time read this.

Quote: nyle
Listen this thread is really long, so here is my summary. There appear to be three major problems that affect these dryers.

Thanks for all the summarization you did... very helpful!

--Bob
     
mark1npt Posted: Jul 26 '11,  7:01 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Jul 26, 2011

Post: 280424
RE: Major summary, save time read this.

Sorry but I am a little confused following a 33 page long thread! I have a Kenmore Elite elec dryer (model#110.62982100)

You push the start button, it runs, you let go and it stops. It also doesn't heat if you hold the button in for awhile to check it. I thought it was the timer as my wife said it had been acting screwy lately, so replaced it, no difference. Picked up a new multitester and checked the push to start switch, it has continuity as do appear both the motor and heat relays. Before I go pulling apart further and checking themistors, thermostats and thermal fuses...can anyone tell me if I'm wasting my time and if it's the microcomputer board? This is a "knob" machine without touchscreen pushbuttons. I don't know from following the board here if this is the problem and similar to those control board issues that others have reported on other models or not. Any ideas before I call the repairman? Can I test the board? Thanks!

     
pvreditor Posted: Jul 27 '11,  5:11 am (Updated: Jul 31 '11,  8:16 pm)           Reply
Reviews written: 427
Member since: May 31, 2002

moderator in Cars, Musical Equipment, Home & Garden
Post: 280441
RE: Major summary, save time read this

Quote: mark1npt
Sorry but I am a little confused following a 33 page long thread! I have a Kenmore Elite elec dryer (model#110.62982100)

You push the start button, it runs, you let go and it stops. It also doesn't heat if you hold the button in for awhile to check it. I thought it was the timer as my wife said it had been acting screwy lately, so replaced it, no difference. Picked up a new multitester and checked the push to start switch, it has continuity as do appear both the motor and heat relays. Before I go pulling apart further and checking themistors, thermostats and thermal fuses...can anyone tell me if I'm wasting my time and if it's the microcomputer board? This is a "knob" machine without touchscreen pushbuttons. I don't know from following the board here if this is the problem and similar to those control board issues that others have reported on other models or not. Any ideas before I call the repairman? Can I test the board? Thanks!

Did you read the "Summary" post a couple above yours? That might give some good guidance. Also, did you try swapping the relays to see if that made a difference? That might give you a clue as to whether the problem is in the relays or the control board. (If the problem changes when you swap relays, then you have a bad relay. If the problem stays the same when you swap relays, then the relays are fine.)

Hope that helps!

--Bob
     
hangdog2 Posted: Aug 30 '11,  2:46 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Aug 30, 2011

Post: 282330
RE: Elite #11064992300

Hi, you sound like you know this dryer pretty well. I wonder if you could tell me the wiring configuration on the heating element. There are 6 wires, 4 going to two thermo fuses and 2 going to the element. I forgot to mark the wires when I removed them and I don't want to hook them up wrong. I have black, red and red w\ white line. thanks for any help you can give

     
maymay217 Posted: Sep 06 '11,  7:57 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Sep 6, 2011

Post: 282731
help with kenmore Elite H4 11095862401

Dryer stated to beep and flash End of signal off low high. Now the machine will not turn on. However there are some lights that are lit and dim. The middle light on the less more is lit, the touch up light is lit and the Medium temp light is lit. Again these are dim. Tried to reset, unplug, checked circuit breaker. Cannot run diagnostic test. Any suggestions.

     
maymay217 Posted: Sep 06 '11,  7:57 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Sep 6, 2011

Post: 282732
help with kenmore Elite H4 11095862401

Dryer stated to beep and flash End of signal off low high. Now the machine will not turn on. However there are some lights that are lit and dim. The middle light on the less more is lit, the touch up light is lit and the Medium temp light is lit. Again these are dim. Tried to reset, unplug, checked circuit breaker. Cannot run diagnostic test. Any suggestions.

     
johnsburg Posted: Sep 17 '11,  10:05 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Sep 17, 2011

Post: 283300
110.73932102 dryer quits after releasing push to start FIX

I had this issue with my 2003 Kenmore Elite gas dryer. I've researched the issue and swapped the motor & heater relays and still had the same issue. I then checked the diodes in series on the control board (there are 6 total, five in a row and a sixth one a bit lower than the rest). These are zener diodes so they only should show resistance with an ohm meter one way. Mine was showing resistance in both directions. I ordered new diodes (the number is on the diode) for 43 cents a peice, soldered them in the board (this is the first time I've ever soldered anything besides a few pipes) and bingo, my dryer now works. I really suggest that anyone having this issue check the diodes on the control board, if they are shorted out like mine were, replace them and I think you'll like all the money you'll save yourself. Good luck!

     
brentalex Posted: Sep 28 '11,  9:39 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Sep 28, 2011

Post: 283891
RE: Burned R32

Hi knavekid, I just found this thread and I'm interested in replacing my circuit board using your specs and instructions on page 14. It looks like you repaired it once in '05 and again in '07? Have you had any problems since then? Also, you mentioned that you took some pictures...are those available online? Thanks,
Brent

     
rfjh Posted: Oct 10 '11,  1:43 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Oct 10, 2011

Post: 284429
RE: 110.73932102 dryer quits after releasing push to start FIX

I also replaced the string of 6 zener diodes (1N5923B), and the dryer works now.
The 1N5923B is rated at 3 watts -- I don't believe that the glass-cased devices that were originally on the board could handle 3 watts forever -- When you buy new diodes, get ceramic-case diodes from ON semiconductor.
As added insurance, I also bent the diode leads up and back down, and soldered some small pieces of brass foil to the bent-up diode leads (as heat sinks). (If you do this, be sure that the pieces of brass foil are soldered between points that are already connected together on the back of the circuit board.)

     
bmac1979 Posted: Oct 21 '11,  2:06 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Oct 21, 2011

Post: 284959
Dryer stops when button is released

I just bypassed the button... take the face off the dryer control. Then disconnect the two wires from the start button. Next, tape the two together with electic tape... VIOLA!! Like a champ. To start your dryer, just select the cycle the dial and it will start and stop when you select. I never liked the button anyways. Oh yea, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU START!!

     
jenks1 Posted: Dec 01 '11,  8:51 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Dec 1, 2011

Post: 287701
Sears Kenmore Elite Dryer

I have a Sears Kenmore HE4T dryer. The end of cycle button flickers to the high, low and off indicator and continously beeps.
I have had the Kenmore washer and dryer for at least 4 years. Every since, I have had the units there was been nothing but issues. I even contacted the corporate sears in kansas, and sent emails complaining about the units, the response received was if I have homeowners insurance to have my homeowner insurance replace the unit and that the units was not made to last forever. I even file a complaint to the better business bureau and sears stated for me to purchase an extended warranty.. for the amount of money paid too sears for the units I would believe that the units would last for more than a year with any problems. I even went back to sears to see why they have not recalled the washer or the dryer, and found that the units was replace with the He5t. the reason for the replacement that I was given is that kenmore was to provide more improvements and both units was not needed. I believe the units should have been recalled and that instead of recall it was easier to just discontinue the units and ease out the He5t. I believe that you get what you pay for. However, I think that everyone who purchased the He4t units the washer and dryer was ripped off. I do plan on purchasing a new washer and dryer hopefully by the end of next year and hope that this units hold on until then, with the help of my husband being the mechanic. However, when the day do come to purchase I definetely will not be purchasing a kenmore or from sears..

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