I have a HE4t 2005 and awoke this morning to a FLODDED
laundry room. I had not done a load, it just flooded sometime in the night.
Anyone have any experience with this? The lovely service man can
come until next week. Man what a mess!
Thanks for any help.

My HE3T had been throwing F11 and dl error codes for a while. I could normally get it to work by taking the top off and wiggling the wires, but finally got tired of doing that. I ordered two replacement relays from Mouser Electronics and got to work. I carefully marked the locations of the wires before I removed the CCU box, then opened the box and removed the circuit board. I desoldered and replaced the two white Omron G5LE-1-DC12 relays and reinstalled the board. I have now washed 15 loads with no errors. The entire cost of the repair was less than $20, and it took me about 30 minutes from start to finish. I want to thank the many posters who described this process, it was very easy, and seems to have resolved the issue entirely.

I just went to sears this week and was planning on the new electrolux or the lg, the sears man talked us into the Kenmore. We went back and forth between the kenmore and the lg. We went with the Kenmore because we were told it was easier to get parts. I went home that day and found review after review about electrical malfunctions as well as noice and time efficiency. I called the next day and cancelled my order we are going in monday to purchase the lg. Thanks for all your insite

well I guess I get to join you all.
I bought my HE4 Front loader at Sears in Vermont in Feb 07
we bought it with our lovely high interest Sears Credit card, so here it is October 08 and it's not even paid off yet. For the past couple of months we've had the F 11 code and the DL code, by unplugging and letting it reset itself it would start to work again after a while..

Well 2 weeks ago the door wouldn't even stay closed anymore and we now can't even use it. I have read all of this info on the parts that need to be replaced, and sears wont' send the parts unless I have a service Tech come look.. and they say nothing is under warrantee, not even the parts.. Every time I call I get someone with a very strong accent and it's very very noisy in the background, I can't even focus on the conversation,,then they transfer me from person to person.. I have gone to the sears store and they are no help whatsover..they keep giving me the service number and say the store cannot help in any way..
Nice,, they could take my 2500 $$ though didn't they??

IF anyone knows the part numbers and a way on how I can order the parts please let me know,, I have the 110.45087 model.. Thank you sooo much..

Also,where can I file a complaint, report against Sears and this machine.. I have 6 children and for the past 3 weeks now I have had to load up tons of laundry to go the laundromat,, NOT a good thing.

Our HE 4t is about 2.5 yrs old and has been throwing F6 codes with increasing frequency over the past couple of months, and on almost every load for the past couple of days. The main manual lists any F code beyond 'H', '02' or 'SUD' as an 'Electrical Problem', which isn't exactly helpful. Thanks to all the info in this thread, I felt confident in taking a look under the hood and grabbing that 'hidden manual'. The torx/star head screws were easy - you can also use a small socket (9/32"). The lower panel on mine did not require any prying to free it, it came right off when the screws were removed. I can confirm that the hidden manual defines F6 as a 'Drive Motor Tachometer' problem. I was concerned about the drain being clogged, but it was easily opened and except for a small plastic plant marker, there wasn't anything blocking it and no noxious build up. I used a shop vac to suck up the water as I opened it. Since there were no obvious problems, I wriggled and pushed on all the connectors between the motor and the main panel (as suggested by the manual). I put it all back together and ran three loads without a single error code - so far, so good! Will post back if anything else develops. Thanks to all who have made such helpful and informative contributions; it's greatly appreciated.

I had similar F06 problems. I wiggled wires, removed and reseated connectors, and unplugged the machine when it was not in use. All of these worked somewhat for a while. Eventually the problem became so frequent that I had to give up and replace boards. The tach was generating a signal on the oscilloscope and the error code appeared to come up before the motor started moving, so I purchased an MCU and a CCU board from Appliancerepair.com. I replaced the MCU first, since it was the most likely suspect, and that fixed the problem. Appliancerepair took the new CCU back without question.

I am saving loose change from the laundry for the next repair.

So, two weeks after delving into the machine and wiggling wires, everything seemed to be working fine. Not a single error code! And then yesterday it started throwing code 06 again, to the point where it wouldn't finish a single cycle without lots of stopping, press 'pause/cancel', restart, etc.

I cracked it open and unplugged all the connectors I could and sprayed 'em down with contact cleaner. They all seemed pretty secure and the contacts were shiny, but you never know.... Anyway, I put it back together and it seemed like it was working again, but then the dreaded 06 struck again. I'm going to reread this thread and maybe replace the MCU (that's the board in the lower left corner near the motor?) or try the solder trick, or (gasp!) call the Sears guy as a last resort. This is developing into a real pain.....

We've had the f11 problem that so many have described-the first call the technician cleared some change out of the drain. About 2 loads later, same problem. This time they replaced the circuit board, I believe-we haven't had that problem anymore. When it was going on, I found that unplugging it a at least 15 minutes would allow me to at least get it to unlock and sometimes to finish the cycle. It was very frustrating. What's more frustrating to us has been the baffles. The machine has been declared a lemon now, so we'll have to pick a new one. I'm very nervous about this since we have extended warranty only until June '10, and the problems with this one started after about a year and a half (we bought the matching set in June'07). We'll have to really look into whatever the comp replacement is that they offer and see if it is better to go with a different brand and forego the match.

We've had the Kenmore Elite HE 4t for almost 3 years now. Besides the earthquake effect during spin cycle, we've had no problems until recently when a wash cycle stopped with an f06 error code. After ruling out electrical problems, I found that I could barely turn the inner basket manually, and that when I did, there was a rubbing sound as if something was stuck between the basket and the outer tub. I then also discovered that the front inside rim of the plastic tub was completely worn though. It looks as if the front rim of the spinning steel basket was rubbing against it and cut right through it, leaving loose pieces of tub plastic hanging all around the inside rim (behind the gray rubber flange). Don't know what happened, but it looks like some very severe damage to the tub. Anyone else experience this? Seems like a pretty serious defect for a washer as expensive and new as this one.

Everyone who owns a Kenmore Front Loading Washing Machine needs to watch this video on Youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwpKP_9_fAA

Thank all of you who have taken the time to share your knowledge with the rest of us- I, for one, was quite clueless. Great step-by-step instructions. We also found a sock in our drain cap, along with some other stinky goo. Finding the hidden tech book was also a prize. Next we plan to get the pedestal set-up under the washer-we've been waiting over two years for Sears to return the screws and set-up instructions they took when they picked-up the first, damaged washer they delivered to us. We have every confidence that we can accomplish this ourselves now! Who needs Sears? We never hope to again

I too have been seeing the dreaded F11 code for awhile now. I have figured out how to get the bottom panel off and manually unlock the door to at least rescue the clothes. After reading all the problems here my husband doesn't want to waste time or money with a repair man. We can't afford another $1400 machine so if we have to replace it I will end up with a lower end machine.

I'm pretty good at fixing things if I can see some pictures on what to look for. Can anyone post or send me (kmayoros@hotmail.com) some pictures of the relays you are replacing? At this point I figure it can't hurt to try.

Hi there,

Fixed this myself 2 weeks ago and created a step by step guide with hi-res photos.

Have a peek if you'd like.

Total cost for me to fix was $30 and I've never tried anything like this before and am far from a handyman.

http://he4tf11.blogspot.com/

Everything you need to know can be found here:

http://he4tf11.blogspot.com/

Can someone tell me how to disconnect the main plug on the MCU? I've looked at this for some time and can't figure out how to get it off. The other two plugs are easily removed.

I have one of these crapola kenmore washers that I am getting up the courage to solder tomorrow and see if it fixes the stupid thing because I cannot even run a single load of clothes now. All of the posts on this site have really helped me a lot and hopefully this will work and save me a lot of money.

I do want to offer a small bit of advice. When I first bought my washer I did notice a moldy smell. Since then I never shut the door if it is not running a load. Also, most of the time instead of adding bleach to my loads I add ammonia. The ammonia does not hurt your clothes at all (won't fade colors or anything) and it keeps all of the odors away, pipes clean, etc. I have had no problem at all with odors or soap scum since I started doing this. Good luck to all of us!

Can anyone tell me the product number for the control panel for the Kenmore He4 washer? I have seen 3 different numbers in posts on here and don't know which one is correct. I have seen 8182637, 8182687 and 8182689. Can someone please tell me which one is correct? Thanks!

Part Number 8182689 (AP3881119) replaces 8182663, 8182688, 8182689R, 8182637, 8182662, 8182636.