It means you probably have a sock stuck in the drain. We did what Mommaramma said back on Sept. 8th. We opened the bottom (be prepared with towels) then pulled the cap off the drain. Wa La! There was a sock stuck in the drain, how it got there I have no idea. We have checked the seal over and over again however no tears or anything were found. The washer is now working fine.

Good luck to you!

The sock gets there from between the basket and the door boot. As the basket moves, the space between the two can increase and the sock falls inside the tub.

The F11 code can be caused by a power surge. I have found that a few of my friends and myself have a HE4T, and with a surge protector attached have had no problems.

Just a thought.

I am sorry, but I can attest that having the power off for a long period of time does not reset the machine and clear the memory. When we were having the F11 codes I would leave the washer unpluged for 24 hours and it would still not work. For a long time it would help for a cylce or two. However, the last week, before replacing the central control unit, it did not work at all.

I replaced the central control unit a month or so ago and we do lanudry every day...no problems since replacing that unit.

Good luck.

OK, I've read the 143 reviews, tried to contact Sears, no dice. Wrote the class action lawsuit company, and BBB. Sears will not send me the control board part - that is covered (2 years on electronics), but will gladly charge me for labor and install from a "qualified" technician. I had a very oxy moron conversation with Sears, and they have horribloe customer service, and will not help. 1400 bones for this front loader was a BAD mistake. Looked great in the store 18 months ago. I want to choke the old bag who said how great "hers" was, and NO PROBLEM- BS! So, I'm going to try the door fix first, then disconnect wires and jiggle, then teach myself how to soder. if anyone knows about a recall or free help and parts- please e-mail me ericragan@msn.com thank you, and good luck.

F2 is a drain error.

Like said elsewhere stuff can get between the tub and housing. We even found a fountain pen in the drain

Here's the another thing you should try:

Remove the bottom front panel. Right in front you'll see the drain motor - it has a large plastic twist drain and two hoses hooked to it.

Hold a pan under the drain and twist off the cover, replacing it as necessary until all the water is out. Look inside for stuff, bullets, toys, etc.

Now unplug the motor, remove the single screw in front, and detach the two hoses. At that point you have the moter out. Unscrew the motor from its housing (2 screws) - see if anything has gotten into the motor impellers and is jaming them from turning.

If that doesn't work, it's new motor time. On line they are only about 75 bucks. Sears wants $100 for the part + $127 to install it (which is a joke for one screw and two hoses.

By the way, Sears wouldn't just sell me the part unless they got their robbery fee to install the pump.

When I told the repairman from sears I would just order the pump and install it myself... then, and only then is when he checked the impellers and found a small piece of plastic was jamming it.

On-line is the only way to buy parts. A control panel is only $238 online, the sears guy who came out wanted over $500 - God only knows what the installation charge would have been.

Never seen a company so dedicated to screwing it's own customers.

Screw Sears,

It's been 4 months since I put in the new Control Board and the HE4t is still working great. This is one awesome machine when in top working order. I still have about 11 more months before the Control Board goes out. I will fight for a new Control Board at the 12 month mark.

All - I have been having similar problems with my HE4T (F DL Error), problems started at about 18 months. The problem started 2 months ago and I replaced the door lock mechanism. Got it working until last week, the F DL error reappeared. Now I can get it to work by removing the top and removing the wires from the controller and replugging them in. This must reset the stupid thing. Just unplugging it does not fix my problem.

I called Sears yesterday and spent about 1 hr discussing the problem with their useless customer support. They offered to let my purchase a service agreement for $300 and tehnthey would fix it for free....

They would not send me a replacement part (they say it has to be installed by their service guy and that will cost as much as buying the part). Anyone out there know how I can get them to send me the replacement part, I would appreciate the help?

I found a sight that sells it for $129+$5 shipping. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3881119&pn_=8182689

I am gonna order the part and install it and see if that fixes my $1400 mistake. I will never buy from Sears again (unless they do something drastic to fix my problem)

yeah, sorry to hear about that one - Sears, over the phone absolutely refuses to send the part, knowingly that is the issue!

Our washing machine is kind of on and off, I leave it unplugged when not in use. I can trick it into thinking its another cycle, shut off the water inlets, and cancel button, and it unlocks the door, but takes major patience. My wife is upset. I hate spending that kind of money, when they want to offer me a 279.99 "service plan" that only covers up to 500.00 one time, and I said - "I can buy two regular washing machines for that!"

I haggled with a Sears rep on the phone two weeks ago, and made sure they knew the Control unit was under the "2 year warranty", and over 140 people had written in comments on the site, and I tricked them into admitting they knew exactly what was wrong, they all know. They wouldn't budge on just sending me the part to do it myself-

Thanks,
Eric

Same problem although I couldn't convince either the Sears phone department or the service techinician that the manual shows a 2 year warranty on the boards. I was told that was for the motor control board only by the tech.
Very suspiciously everyone is desperate to sell me an extended warranty rather than just repair the thing. I told them that I was aware this is a common problem and I'd rather junk the brand and buy a better one than fool with such rediculous care and service. I might try the fix myself since I am electronically inclined.

I have a 13 month old He3 and just now started getting the F11 and F dL error codes. I have a repair man coming out in a week but I'm already looking at getting my own circuit board and fixing it myself. I don't have alot of patience or trust in repairmen. I'll be signing up for the lawsuit mentioned above.

I found a listing of the error codes and what they mean and possible cures.

Hope this helps.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_appliance+fault+codes.aspx#Sears%20/%20Kenmore%20Fault%20Codes

Steve

So did installing this new board you referrenced fix your problem? How hard was it?

After 18 months my HE4T washer started with a couple of F11's, and now the door won't lock. I get the F/DL error and I can't start a wash. Got the extended warranty but the biggest problem is having to find a place to take my laundry. I've got a tech coming out next week but I'm going to call back and tell them to bring a new control board. After reading this long thread they'll likely need to do that but it sounds like they don't usually stock that part! I can't go weeks with no washer ...

To: Kevintrisha
I have experienced same problems and have swapped the white relays for temp. fix.
Can you provide the relay product part numbers and Manufacture and source (store name if chain) you discovered for the replacment relays?
Thanks
pfritzc

I too have a Kenmore Elite He4 washer that is only 16 months old and is driving me nuts with the F11 and DL errors. We called the recall line w/Sears to see if a recall has been issued for this problem. They advised that in order for a recall to be issued, complaints must be made to: We spoke with Joanne.

1-800-762-3048 by phone

Or you can write your complaint to:

Sears
Attn: Complaints
3333 Beverly Rd.
Hoffman Estates, IL 60179

If everyone that is having this problem calls & files a complaint, we just might get a recall on these expensive machines that are only lasting a year before needing costly repairs.

f11 error can repaired on kenmore/whirlpool front loaders
without replacin brds.

our HE4t had F06 problems while still under warranty and the repair technician told us it was a 'rock'!!!!! without offering to show us what it looked like (which to this day it has me convinced that it might have been an expensive rock that we don't realize has gone missing from someone's pocket??!)

We've had the machine for over 2 years and the fun started with F11/DL codes a couple of weeks ago.

Am I correct in reading that the solution for non-DIY people is to get a technician out and not to purchase the warranty that they push?

And what is the most likely site/place for starting the class action?

thanks,

http://www.sheller.com/Practice.asp?PracticeID=216

Sheller, Ludwig & Sheller, P.C. is currently investigating claims related to Kenmore Elite HE3t and HE4t washing machine "motor control," "central control," "circuit board" or "computer board" failures for a potential class action. These claims often become apparent to consumers when their Kenmore HE3t or Kenmore HE4t washing machine becomes inoperable and displays the F11 error code.

Many consumers have reported receiving the F11 error shortly after their warranty expired while others note receiving the F11 error within months of purchasing their washing machine. In many cases, consumers report that they had to replace the Kenmore HE3t or Kenmore HE4t's "control board" or "circuit board" to resolve the F11 error.

Please complete the consumer questionnaire below if you have purchased a Kenmore Elite HE3t or HE4t washing machine, and you have experienced the F11 error code. Doing so will assist us our investigation of these issues, and ensure that you are kept abreast of material developments.

http://www.sheller.com/Practice.asp?PracticeID=216

Done. thanks for the info

To repair F11.
Tools required: Soldering Iron , Solder, 9/32 or Torx bit. Flat head screwdriver.

U will need to remove main control brd. Then take brd out of casing. Check conections aroung replays n reflow any cold solders.