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| rerickson |
Original Post: Nov 20 '06, 6:47 am |
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Reviews written: 0 Member since: Nov 20, 2006
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Tile backer
I am ready to tile my kitchen and bath with 12"x12" ceramic tile. Both rooms together are about 230sq.ft. with a lot of cutting and notching. I am undecided weather to go with plywood or Durarock. The cost is almost the same with the exception of cutting and fastening. I need to find out the best way to cut and fasten durarock. Or is it going to be such a pain I wished I would have used plywood. Would my end result be about the same? I have T&G 1x4's on top of floor joists and a 3/4" plywood floor I have to tear up becouse of thickness. Help! Thanks: Rob |
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| pvreditor |
Posted: Nov 20 '06, 7:13 am (Updated: Apr 28 '08, 7:56 am) |
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Reviews written: 426 Member since: May 31, 2002
 in Musical Equipment, Home & Garden, Cars |
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RE: Tile backer
Quote: rerickson I am ready to tile my kitchen and bath with 12"x12" ceramic tile. Both rooms together are about 230sq.ft. with a lot of cutting and notching. I am undecided weather to go with plywood or Durarock. The cost is almost the same with the exception of cutting and fastening. I need to find out the best way to cut and fasten durarock. Or is it going to be such a pain I wished I would have used plywood. Would my end result be about the same? I have T&G 1x4's on top of floor joists and a 3/4" plywood floor I have to tear up becouse of thickness. Help!
I'd use plywood in the kitchen and Durock in the bath. Plywood is easier to work with than Durock and standing water on the floor is not as likely in the kitchen as it is in the bathroom. If you wanted to be really safe though, use Durock in both places. One of its big benefits is that it is impervious to moisture. It will not rot or get waterlogged.
As for cutting Durock, you can make straight cuts with a circular saw and any cheap carbide blade. (Be prepared to throw the blade away when you're done.) There are circular saw blades made for cutting Durock and they are not expensive. They are really just carbide-tipped blades and nothing really special.
Making other-than-straight cuts in Durock is hard. I ended up using a masonry drill bit, making LOTS of holes and breaking off the unwanted section. It's not easy. I tried a Roto-Zip tool with a masonry bit and it broke after an inch or two. The Durock laughed at my puny attempts to cut it with a saber saw. The only thing that worked reliably was a masonry drill bit and a lot of holes. Whenever you cut Durock, you absolutely must wear goggles. The blade will throw a stinging shower of concrete particles and you don't want to know what that will do to your eyes.
Everything about working with Durock was three times harder than working with plywood. However, I'm very satisfied with the surface it provides for ceramic tile. Most building codes require it for shower stalls and tub surrounds, because it is impervious to water. Make sure your studs are 16-inches on center and that you use the right screws for Durock. And be prepared to use a lot of muscle.
--Bob |
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| srmurray |
Posted: Apr 28 '08, 7:14 am |
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Reviews written: 0 Member since: Apr 28, 2008
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Tile back for kitchen walls?
Hi! I agree with all of your comments on using Durarock in showers and places where water is present. I'm going to be tiling all of the walls in my kitchen and I'm planning on using 1/2 exterior grade plywood as the tile backer for all of the walls. Does anyone see a problem with this? I'll be using Laticrete flexible additive to the tile setting compound which should allow the tile to move with the more flexible plywood backing. |
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| pvreditor |
Posted: Apr 28 '08, 7:54 am |
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Reviews written: 426 Member since: May 31, 2002
in Musical Equipment, Home & Garden, Cars |
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RE: Tile back for kitchen walls?
Quote: srmurray Hi! I agree with all of your comments on using Durarock in showers and places where water is present. I'm going to be tiling all of the walls in my kitchen and I'm planning on using 1/2 exterior grade plywood as the tile backer for all of the walls. Does anyone see a problem with this? I'll be using Laticrete flexible additive to the tile setting compound which should allow the tile to move with the more flexible plywood backing.
I don't see any problems with that, especially since wall tiles get a lot less stress than floor tiles. There's also no chance of standing water on a wall in the kitchen, unless you get flooded. The plywood and the adhesive you chose sounds like a good way to go.
--Bob |
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| elzora |
Posted: Apr 28 '08, 10:28 pm |
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Reviews written: 3032 Member since: Jan 25, 2000
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Tile
We remodeled our kitchen two summers ago, and I tiled my kitchen walls and backsplash. I love it. They put that green board sheet rock up (like they use in bathrooms), and tiled over that. It's so easy to care for! |
