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tpettigrewfrg Posted: Mar 06 '08,  8:05 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 6, 2008

Post: 175366
RE: F11& DL Repair

I disassembled the machine and found a cold solder joint on one of the relays on the PC board. I want to thank everyone who has posted it is very helpful.

The whole disassemble and reassemble took about 15-20mins to complete.

So far so good, now onto the bad awful smell.

hostert Posted: Mar 11 '08,  1:23 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 11, 2008

Post: 175792
leaky He3t

My He3t washer leaked this past weekend for the first time. I had a large load with a heavy cotton sweater, towels and jeans in it. I didn't think you could overload this washer. And some of my shirts in the same load were really twisted up. The leak has not happened again. I am looking at my machine now with some sense of dread. What is it going to do next? I have had the computer board replaced because of the F11 code. We were still under warranty at the time. We are now long out of warranty. I had not realized that so many others who had bought this machine were having similar issues. The washer vibrates and squeaks. I think the squeak is due to the dryer being stacked on top. The washer gets going in the spin cycle and really makes the whole unit, washer and dryer, shake. I have not had the smell issue yet. Yet.

ebbony Posted: Mar 12 '08,  12:19 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 12, 2008

Post: 175902
RE: Dryer

I hate to tell you this but according to the service tech. and the lead service tech. these washer and dryers average life span is 8-9 years

ebbony Posted: Mar 12 '08,  12:23 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 12, 2008

Post: 175906
RE: Kennmore elite

i would love to be part of a class action suit. Sears needs to realize people are tired of being ripped off.

ebbony Posted: Mar 12 '08,  12:38 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 12, 2008

Post: 175914
RE: HE4t

hate to tell you the average life span of these are 8-9 years according to sears techs

mtnmonk07 Posted: Mar 21 '08,  7:04 am (Updated: Mar 21 '08,  7:06 am)           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Feb 20, 2008

Post: 176979
RE: I am going to heed Antique Dave's Advice...

Big THANK YOU to Antique Dave!! Our prayers have been answered.

ok... so here is what happened. Did my research re replacing the control board. I found that Sears Canada sold the board for $391 and Sears US was $230. When I asked the Sears Canada representative on the phone why the discrepancy he had no answer. Apparently fair Canadian pricing does not apply for Sears. So I ended up ordering the part from Sears US and had it shipped to a relative in Washington State.

Finally received the control board from my relative this past week and followed Antique Dave's instructions for removal of the old board and replacement with the new board. Everything went smoothly and our washer is now functioning without an F11 or dL.

So again... thanks Dave. And to all of you out there with F11 & dL issues DO NOT call Sears Service. Take the time to order the control board part and replace it yourself. I am not a do-it-yourself-er kinda guy and it took me no more than 15 minutes. My wife is forever grateful!

hopemcg Posted: Mar 21 '08,  1:03 pm (Updated: Mar 21 '08,  1:12 pm)           Reply
Reviews written: 4
Member since: Apr 22, 2001

Post: 177018

Ok, so I want to take a shot at re-soldering the stuff in the white box. I have a ton of questions.

Is any soldering iron ok?

What kind of solder?

Do I just touch it to each joint?

How long do I let it sit there?

What kind of solder should I use if something looks like it needs replacing?

I also have a question about that diagnostic you can run. What can it tell you? Is that in the hidden manual?

pvreditor Posted: Mar 23 '08,  7:21 am (Updated: Mar 23 '08,  7:21 am)           Reply
Reviews written: 427
Member since: May 31, 2002

moderator in Cars, Musical Equipment, Home & Garden
Post: 177153
RE: soldering

Quote: hopemcg
Ok, so I want to take a shot at re-soldering the stuff in the white box. I have a ton of questions.

Is any soldering iron ok?

What kind of solder?

Do I just touch it to each joint?

How long do I let it sit there?

What kind of solder should I use if something looks like it needs replacing?

I also have a question about that diagnostic you can run. What can it tell you? Is that in the hidden manual?

I can't help you with a diagnostic but I have a lot of experience with solder. You want to get an electronics soldering iron and electronic-grade solder. Both are available at Radio Shack -- here's the URL for a soldering iron for $9:


Solder will cost you $2 or $3 for all that you'll need.

Once you get a soldering iron and solder, practice a little bit of soldering with some small copper wires. Twist a couple wires together and apply heat to the joint with the soldering iron. Touch the solder to the joint and keep the heat on so that the solder spreads through the joint. Get used to adding the right amount of solder -- too much and the solder gets all blobby, too little and the wires can come apart. A properly soldered joint should be shiny and smooth, not frosted looking. Practice a few times until you get the hang of it.

When you re-solder joints on a circuit board, heat the joint up and add just a little solder. Again, a properly soldered joint will be shiny and smooth, not dull and frosted looking. Solder should adhere smoothly to the wire sticking through the circuit board. Try to use the soldering iron as little as possible to get the results you need, as too much heat can damage some components. Too much heat can also cause the copper traces on the circuit board to pull away from the board material. Don't add too much solder to the circuit board, as a big blob of solder can short out to another terminal.

Good luck!

giroux68 Posted: Mar 26 '08,  6:37 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 26, 2008

Post: 177607
wires pulled from connector

I was unplugging the connectors on my HE2t washer MCU and pulled the wires from the connector. The top plug with 3 blue wires on it. I think I have them in the right order, but does anyone have the wiring diagram or a photo of where the wires should go???thanks.

giroux68 Posted: Mar 27 '08,  5:56 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Mar 26, 2008

Post: 177741

Nothing like good old trial and error. I just replaced the CCU and now get the F28 error and the drum still doesn't spin. What a POS

hogwrestle Posted: Apr 05 '08,  1:40 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 5, 2008

Post: 179506
Kenmore Elite 4t error codes

We 've had ours for 3 years no problems ever until today Door won't unlock Error Code F then dL flashes any new fixes or sugestions for the repair man coming out in a week

packerfan53 Posted: Apr 05 '08,  3:40 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 1
Member since: Mar 9, 2007

Post: 179525
RE: Kenmore Elite 4t error codes

Here's how to manually unlock. I copied this from another post.


Next, remove the lower front kick panel. You will need a star-head driver (six points), which you can get at your friendly Sears store. (Not only do they sell the junk, they sell the junk to fix the junk.) It requires a fairly small unit. I used a handle with swappable parts to match the right size head.

The three star-head screws are located along the bottom of the kick panel. If the washer is sitting on the optional pedestal, be sure to pull the drawer out before proceeding. Then unscrew each of the screws and place in a plastic bag to avoid losing them.

The front panel is now attached by pressure to the rest of the washer. Take a crowbar, cover the end with a thin paper towel to avoid scratching the paint on the washer, insert the thin end low in the gap between the washer and the panel, and gently twist until the side pops off. Do both sides.

Once the panel has been removed, look to the right on the side of the inner wall of the washer. There you will find the lost manual pages intended to help the tech interpret error code and fix conditions. It also contains instructions on how to UNLOCK THE DOOR. Fancy that. Take the manual pages out from behind the plastic envelope (they are taped and sealed, be careful not to tear them) and put them with the rest of the user manual, where they belong.

You can now see the inside of the washer. Peer up the inside at where the latch for the door closes. You will see a small plastic black box. Pull the bottom end straight down. Then, open the door. Viola!

Now if you have wet clothes in the machine, they won't get moldy sitting a week waiting for the repairman.

Here are suggested things to check when you get the F DL code.

A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.

Potential Causes

• Door Lock Mechanism broken or removed from the Door
• Check Door Lock/Switch Assembly
• Check the wire harness connections to the Door Lock/Switch Assembly and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Door Lock/Switch Assembly Failure

There are lots of posts on epinions.com related to this error and what people have done to fix their machines.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

jeffld Posted: Apr 06 '08,  11:01 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 1
Member since: Apr 6, 2008

Post: 179668

I can also testify that this washer is in fact garbage.

I just purchased one yesterday and I installed it myself. I followed all the directions regarding leveling the machine and the machine vibrates out of control and walks across the floor. I then tried installing 3/4 inch plywood as suggested in the manual. I used deck screws to attach the plywood to the floor to make sure that it wouldn't move, leveled the machine again using a level and the machine continues to wobble and walk.

It is a shame that Sears sells garbage like this and causes damage to the Sears brand. I've been buying Sears Products for over 20 years, but after this experience I may never return to Sears for any products.

I plan on returning this machine and getting my money back. (and probably pay the dreaded "restocking fee")

jeffld Posted: Apr 07 '08,  7:27 am           Reply
Reviews written: 1
Member since: Apr 6, 2008

Post: 179677
Yes, It is really level.

I found a post about leveling the machine.

See this link for a more colorful description of what I'm talking about.


I thought I would post a follow-up post before someone comes back with a reply asking if the weight is distributed evenly. Yes, I checked to see if the weight is distributed evenly.

All 4 feet are firmly on the 3/4 plywood. The extra plywood is screwed to the floor using twelve 2 inch deck screws and the machine does not rock when I put weight on any of the corners.

I pushed down on each corner and tried to rock it and doesn't rock even when I put my full weight on it, which is over 200lbs. It is firmly supported on all 4 feet, yet nearly walks across the room during the spin cycle. I tried all speeds of the spin cycle and get the same problem no matter what.

I'm definitely bringing the unit back and demanding my money back, but just for curiosity sake, I'm going to see if I can open the back panel and look to see if I can spot any broken parts. I suspect that something must be broken inside, probably the shock absorbers.

Here is a link about that..


This is totally unacceptable for a brand new machine.

sears_blows Posted: Apr 12 '08,  9:28 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 12, 2008

Post: 180425
Kenmore HE4t

Sears is in a sad state of affairs. Bought the Kenmore HE4t and matching dryer 3 years ago. Continuous intermittent problems (codes F11, DL, can't get through a complete cycle) over the last 6 months. Called Sears asking what a DL code is because it is not listed in the troubleshooting guide. Get people that lack basic call center skills and tell me that they can only schedule a service call since I do not have an extended warranty. When I make the point that all I am looking for is the code for DL since it is not published in their manual, they say they can't tell me because I don't have the service plan. (Not what I wanted to hear after being out of pocket $1100 with a 3 yr old washer that no longer works.) When I asked to speak to a supervisor, they laugh, put you on hold for 15 minutes waiting for you to hang up, and when you don't, they disconnect you. This happened three times.

So I hope the MBA's who have "figured out" how to cut costs and increase revenue by stonewalling customers and abdicating responsibility realize this a short term strategy. Revenue and profit come through reliability and customer service, concepts that were pillars of the Sears company for generations. A once proud company has traded customer confidence for customer frustration. I am wheeling my Kenmore to the curb and going out to buy a Bosch.

karenntopeka Posted: Apr 12 '08,  4:12 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 12, 2008

Post: 180474
THANKS!! Fixed my Sears HE2t Front Load Washer


Here is a "how-to" regarding responding to the F21 error and manually cleaning out the drain.

First, I want to say thank you to the folks that posted to this site re a Sears Front Load Washer. I have had my HE2t for about 18 months with intermittant errors. Yesterday the machine wouldn't spin. I got the manual out (yes, I'm a woman) and learned I shouldn't have put a med-large size load in while using the Express or Delicate cycle. Took out half of the wet load, still no luck getting the machine to spin using the Rinse/Drain Spin 2nd Rinse command.

HOWEVER, in reading this site, I learned about the clean out drain under the front cover and that solved my problem. I had a trouser sock AND a dime and 3 pennies come out along with the nasty water.

The following was necessary to resolve the problem.

Use a 1/4" hex head screwdriver, 2-3 small buckets, several towels. I have a storage drawer under the washer and should have emptied this out and put a towel in it as some water got in.

Took 3 screws off the top edge of the front panel. I FOUND the ellusive manual with a list of the "F Codes" in a ziplock back taped to the inside of this panel!!! By the way, the repair suggestions for the "F21" error doesn't include cleaning out this white drain pipe as a possible solution!

Anyway, after having the buckets and towels ready to go, I twisted the PVC type plug counter clockwise. The water will begin running out before you get the plug out so I suggest you have a helper if you can. My 10 year old was standing by.

Pulled the plug out, had my 10 year old running fireman style relay to the kitchen, though it really only filled 2 buckets. Then she held the bucket while it took both of my hands to get the slimy sock disengaged from the plug. Yes it was smelly, but not horrible.

Thanks to all. Hope this easy and inexpensive solution is helpful. I plan to keep a 1/4" hex head screwdriver in the drawer under the washer so I can check this clean out from time to time. There was a lot of lint and slimy fuzz in there with the sock.


toomuchlaundry Posted: Apr 24 '08,  7:57 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 24, 2008

Post: 182374
Error Code F05 on He4t washer

I spent 1300 on the He4t - shortly after the 1 yr warranty went out, it broke. NOW (a mere 5 weeks later) i'm getting the F05 error.
I believe it is related to the water temp sensor. Help. anyone? Would like to replace part myself as the last repair cost me $200 for $50 in parts.
Also-anyone have any info on who to complain to at Sears? I am at my wits end. Not even 2 years old & I have never owned such an expensive piece of junk. Also get CRAZY vibrating - i'm waiting for plaster to shake loose (ahhh, and then there is the mildew smell).

bobi1 Posted: Apr 24 '08,  10:17 am           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Apr 24, 2008

Post: 182399
RE: F11& DL Repair

Great information guys! I replaced the 5 relays on the board as suggested.
Cost me about $20 from ElectroSonic and it works already a month - no issues.

torsiondrummer Posted: Apr 25 '08,  1:41 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: Dec 6, 2006

Post: 182573
RE: F11 Error Repaired for now.

In reply to Smccauley - F11 Error Repaired for now.
Our F11 error finally prevented any loads to complete and held laundry hostage for hours even after unplugging it overnight. I finally bought 4 replacement relays (2 Spares), only $1.50 each from Allied Electronics. De-soldered originals and soldered new relays in. Only one showed signs of arcing. Total project time was around 30-45 minutes which included removing the Dryer from the top of the washer and replacing it. Have not had a single issue for a month now. Total cost of repair was less than $10.00 and I still have two more relays in case it fails again. I guess if it last a year or so I can live with it.


Omron Electronic Components
Relay, PCB, Subminiature, SPDT, 10 Amps, 12 VDC
Mfr's part#: G5LE-1-DC12
Allied Stk#: 821-2208

Was it the 2 black relays you replaced?

keckx00 Posted: May 03 '08,  8:00 pm           Reply
Reviews written: 0
Member since: May 3, 2008

Post: 183673
Fed up with my He4t washer

We have the same problem with our Kenmore He4t washer. We bought the washer/dryer in 12/04. It was working great until this year. We had the DL F (Door Lock Failure) error code off and on for months. Every time we were able to cancel/reset it and it would work for few days/weeks. A month ago we couldn’t clear the error code and the washer was dead in the water.
We called Sears, had an appointment but no show, go figure. We called a local service tech and he showed up in two days. It cost us $100 for the tech to troubleshoot the problem. The problem was due to the door was not locking properly or latching. We replaced the door lock/switch assembly ($100, part & labor). A week ago the F11 code showed up. Called the local service tech again, now he suggested we replace the CCU (computer board) at $275 plus labor. He thinks the CCU board has a defect and it is not talking to the door to tell it to lock/unlock. He tested the control board earlier and he thinks it’s working ok. He also said that Sears doesn’t provide a lot of info on these He washers so he’s having hard time diagnosing the problem. He thinks we should replace the CCU and if that doesn’t work we may have to replace the control board. We looking at $600 plus, replacing evrything. We were thinking about getting a second opinion until we found this website. So far we had shelled out $200 already and we’re seriously thinking about getting rid of it and buy a new washer. We had it with Sears. We’ll never buy from them again.
A side note. Our neighbor has the same problem with her He3t. She’s upset. She wrote a long letter to Sears. She has not heard back from them.

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