You will not taste wormwood at San Francisco's Absinthe in "Hayes Valley."
Written: Jan 25 '00 (Updated Jul 06 '01)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: A beautiful interior, willing staff, and and some fine seafood dishes.
Cons: Often in American-French restaurants, dishes don't satisfy due to lack of native French ingredients.
The Bottom Line: ABSINTHE, close to civic and artistic amenities, offers comfortable French dishes, in belle epoque surroundings, at reasonable prices.
|
|
|
| macresarf1's Full Review: Absinthe Brasserie and Bar |
Since I first wrote this review of ABSINTHE, it has become a major destination restaurant in the burgeoning Hayes Valley neighborhood of San Francisco. Everything I said originally remains true, only more so.
The Absinthe Brasserie and Bar, at 398 Hayes Street (corner of Hayes and Gough -- pronounced "Goff"), near the Civic Center, is named after the addictive liqueur, now illegal in many countries, which Zola featured in his famous novel of Parisian degradation L'ASSOMMOIR (THE DRAM SHOP). The name suggests things forbidden and sinful. One will not find them here, but it is a pretty good French restaurant just the same.
As the terms "brasserie" and "bar" indicate, Absinthe is a somewhat more relaxed spot than the very expensive French places on Nob Hill or other classy areas of San Francisco. Open now for both lunch and dinner, it is a nice spot to stroll to after visiting the new Main Public Library, four blocks away, or for a romantic date, or before a musical function at nearby Davies Hall in the evening. It also features seatings for a romantic late supper after the opera, theater or a concert.
Absinthe may be reached by public transport from Market Street by the #21 Hayes bus.
This brasserie, painted forest green, with ample windows, is entered from a corner door at Gough Street. One finds the bar, all shining brass and dark wood, on the left, and the dining room stretches away to the right. On a pleasant night, diners at sidewalk tables, the warm lights playing on others inside, Absinthe is quite a sight. Casual diners are welcome to eat at the bar.
The decor is belle epoque, and the drink and fare tend to be 1920's-1930's. For instance, only in the most sophisticated American bar, even in San Francisco, might one easily order a Champagne Cocktail before lunch or a Side Car before dinner. Here they are featured drinks, and the charming bartendress prepares them with great elan. On the menu, one notices old fashioned Day Boat scallops in an orange vinaigrette, a homey dish from the Breton Coast, is a specialty.
The emphasis here is on seafood. Absinthe has a traditional style French oyster tray. A simple, relatively inexpensive method of sampling the fare would call for a cocktail at the bar, fresh oysters at table, a bowl of onion soup, and the scallops with a glass of Montrachet, followed by a salad in the French fashion. This menu will set one back $40, more or less, which isn't bad for a French restaurant, or in any rather upscale restaurant in San Francisco for that matter.
The mark of a good French restaurant is its Onion Soup. Is the beef broth thick and well simmered? Is the melted Gruyere on top of quality?
Above all, is the soup packed with caramelized onions? (In certain glorious restaurants of France, one imagines a whole onion field was harvested for your pleasure.) The Onion Soup at Absinthe rates, in my opinion, a "B." It has a fine broth, good cheese, a properly toasted round of bread, and a respectable gathering of onions.
I am impressed with the surroundings, too, the willing and friendly staff, the cocktails, the wine list, and a number of the fresh seafood and fish dishes. An alternative dish, well made here, nice at the bar on a cold night, is a French version of seafood risotto.
Recommended:
Yes
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
macresarf1
|
 - Top 100 |
|
Location: San Francisco, Ca.
Reviews written: 563
Trusted by: 379 members
About Me:
12/21/09: Ten years ago, today, I published my first epinion. Many thanks!
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.