San Francisco radiates Italian restaurants. Not all of them are ACQUERELLO or THE LITTLE CITY ANTI-PASTI BAR AND RESTAURANT or THE GRANADA CAFE, but depending upon your budget, a visitor or a resident should be able to find a decent Italian meal within ten blocks (even if he/she is staying in Chinatown). So many are there, indeed, that trying to pick one from the group is like attempting to rate a Most Helpful Epinion for James Cameron's movie, TITANIC. [If you don't like my review of that disaster, try Mangiotto's.] From my work basket, I have selected a couple of neighborhood places from different parts of the City: VILLA ROMAGNA (on the South side of the Park) and APERTO, in a little neighborhood of civilized culture, on the sunny downslopes of Potrero Hill in sight of the Bay.

Let's do APERTO.

My last occasion there is vague in my mind. I know that I was with Mary Ann one afternoon, after seeing a movie. We had gone down to the Bayside on a rare warm day in Summer to have a drink and gaze at Oakland and Alameda across the water. Late in the day, we became hungry but found THE MISSION ROCK RESORT and 42 DEGREES closed on account of the growing Recession -- or just because it was Monday. I'm not sure which.

Taking the Fillmore 22 Bus, we rode through the old docklands, up into a still unspoiled section to San Francisco, until we approached a little shopping area along 18th Street. On the way, I pointed out to Mary Ann IL PIRATA, but knew it was not open for dinner. Nothing was open, in fact, until we came to that little hotbed of restaurants bounded by Missouri and Connecticut, known as Goat Hill. We might try JUST FOR YOU (Cajun-Southern), THANYA AND SALEE (Thai) or APERTO. The latter was just by the bus stop, corner of 18th and Connecticut, so we popped out of the #22 and into its white interior.

We were greeted by not one but two attractive young hostesses, who sat us at one of the Spartan tables which make up the dining room. Another young woman brought us menus from the service counter across the room, and one explained the Specials for the Evening. It was close to six o'clock and the place was beginning to fill up.

I don't remember what the Specials were, but there was a Pasta and at least two Secondi. We stuck with the menu, ordering a small Antipasti Misti ($6.75), which Mary Ann and I shared, to start, and a couple of glasses of the House Red ($5 each). The Antipasto consisted of marinated Broccoli, Green Beans, fresh Tomatoes, Salami, Proscuitto, and some rather nice cheese. The wine was refreshing and adequate.

Mary Ann, who loves Salmon, had Salmone con Patate e Spinaci -- pan seared filet of Salmon with roasted fingerling Potatoes, Baby Spinach and a Shrimp Buerre Blanc -- $15.25. I contented myself with Pappardelle Bolognese di Agnello -- Ribbons of Egg Pasta with Ground Lamb, Rosemary, Red Wine, and Tomato Meat Sauce, for $12.25. Mary Ann liked the fish, but said it was not up to the Salamone en Crosta she had at CINECITTA in San Rafael just days before. Wielding a peppermill and I couple of spoons of Parmesan/Romano, I plunged into my pasta in a mist of spattering red sauce. As we tucked into these dishes, Mary Ann noted that the hostesses were happily doing a little dance together up by the counter.

The significance of this rite over my left shoulder remains undetermined.

At about $45 plus tip for the two of us, we left full.

Later, remembering the menu at our leisure, we considered that we might have had for Antipasti, the Zuppa del Giorno (a bit warm for it, though) or the Insalata Aperto, both about $5 apiece, or several salad specials, including a Caesar ($6.75), an Insalata Rucola e Treviso (Arugula, Treviso Radicchio, and Grana Cheese with Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette: $7.75), and Insalsata di Arancia e Finocchio (Blood Red Oranges and fresh Fennel with frisee, Baby Spinach, Red Onions and a Blood Orange Vinaigrette: $8.75).

Or, more substantially, we might have taken the Cozze con Porri (Oven Roasted Mussels in Shellfish Broth with Leeks, Arugula and Arbol Chili: $8.00); Suppli di Granchio (Crab Cakes with Chick Pea Puree, Cherry Tomatoes, Micro-greens, Frisee and spicy Aioli: $8.75); Bruschetta di Rapini (Grilled Country Bread with Broccoli Rabe, Garlic, Anchovy, Balsamic syrup, and shaved Pecorino Cheese: $8.75); perhaps in addition, the Contorni (Balsamic Onions or Roasted Peppers in Herbed Olive Oil, for $3.00 each).

Other Pasta I might have chosen consisted of Spaghetti al Gianni (Long, thin Egg Pasta with Cauliflower, toasted Garlic, Parsley, White Wine, Butter, Grana and Pecorino Cheeses: $10.25); Pansotti con Piselli e Pancetta (Housemade Sweetpea and Ricotta filled Ravoli in a sauce of cream: $11.50); Taliolini Pepati (Egg Pasta with Arugula, Smoked Bacon, Jalapeno, Roast Tomato Sauce, Garlic, Grana and Pecorino Cheeses: $10.25); Fettuchini di Gamberi (Noodles with White Prawns, Black Olives, Anchovy, Tomato and Shrimp Broth: $14.25); and a Pasta per Bambino (with extra cream and cheese for younger children: $4.50).

The tuto Secondi for Mary Ann included Polleto in Tegame (a whole, pan roasted, herbed Poulet with braised Savoy Cabbage, Leeks and Preserved Lemons: $14.25), plus a fresh fish of the day and a roasted, grilled, braised meat of the day (prices on inquiry).

The winelist, which we did not really consult, had a number of standard Italian red and white wines at a fair mark up by the bottle, and by the glass. Also beer and juices.

Desserts ran to Fresh Fruit Granitas and Warm Chocolate Souffle Cake at between five and seven dollars a portion, but we were pressed a bit for time.

APERTO, with its slightly Greek touch, was begun by the unlikely named Jesse James when Goat Hill was just getting hot among young newcomers. We thought it a nice place, nothing spectacular for the money, but fresh, clean and simple, with a few out of the way dishes.

As Mary Ann summed up APERTO, "It was nice." That means three stars.

If you wander south of Pac Bell Park one day soon, jump on a Fillmore 22 Bus and check out APERTO, 1438 18th Street (Ph 415- 252-1625). It is open for Lunch, Monday thru Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:20 p.m. And for Dinner: Sunday 5:00 to 9:00 p.m. -- Monday thru Saturday 5:30 to 10:00 p.m. Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday.

We'll deal with VILLA ROMAGNA another day, if I can find it in the Epinions Data Base.

Chow -- I mean, Chiao!



Recommended: Yes

Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Expect a simple San Francisco neighborhood Italian restaurantm, and you will not be disappointe. I would stick with the pastas.
Best Suited For: Friends