True Americana
Written: Nov 18 '04 (Updated May 23 '05)
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Pros: Great food, speedy service, home-made pies, the atmosphere & history.
Cons: Long waits for limited seating, no milk shakes, only in Los Angeles
The Bottom Line: An American institution, that has kept the original diner eating experience alive and well in an age where the past has been forgotten.
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| criteeker's Full Review: Apple Pan |
(sing it with me) The first time, ever I saw your place... I was but a wee lad. Well, actually, I was 2 and the year was 1964. I had just had my very first haircut and my dad took me to get a burger as a reward for being so "brave.". This was no ordinary burger. This was sloppy bliss. Napkins are not an option here.
New Jersey might be the birthplace of the Diner, but they don't have the Apple Pan.
Back on April 11, 1947, The Apple Pan opened its rustic doors to the public. However, the recipes are much older. On the back of the menu, are the dates and origins of the Apple Pan's delectables. The following is a list of the items, it's originator, where it came from as well as its date of origin.
apple pie: Roma Grover Baker - Gallopolis, Ohio -1881
banana cream pie: Alta Spear Gamble - Ravenwood, Missouri - 1886
pumpkin & pecan pies: Ellen Baker - Omaha, Nebraska - 1909
steak & hickory burgers: Alan Baker - Cleveland, Ohio - 1905
Aptly named, the Bakers brought their recipes out West and the rest is history. There are ONLY four things that have changed since its inception in 1947. The original cash registers were replaced in the late 1950s because they broke down. There was a second bathroom installed. And in 2003, one of my favorite things vanished... The soft drinks used to be served in paper cones that nested in plastic holders with a handle. Sadly, that is no more. They were replaced with sterile white styrofoam cups. I asked why, and was told that the paper cones are no longer made. I don't buy that - they were the same cones used for making "snow cones." And now, water is sold in bottles.
When you enter the swinging wooden doors and matching screen doors, you are at the back end of the U-shaped counter. In front of you lies the original 24 red vinyl swivel stools. To the left, the entrance to the bathrooms. In the middle island, lies the original grill and nerve center of the cooking operation. To the right, through a glass window, you can see their world-famous pies being made. And in the back is the kitchen where food is stored and prepped.
Location: 10801 Pico Blvd at the corner of Glendon. One block East of Westwood Blvd and across from the behemoth mall - The Westside Pavillion. Rumor has it, when the developers were planning to build the mall, they approached the owners of the Apple Pan (several Times) with very generous offers into the MILLIONS of dollars. They were flatly rejected. The children, who inherited the Apple Pan, were specifically instructed NEVER to sell. They are to keep the Apple Pan in the family. Every single employee of this magical eatery owns stock in the company. Some of them have been there since the beginning. In fact, Gordon, the guy who served me back in 1964, still works there. He's the tall guy with glasses - I affectionately call, "Baby Huey."
HOURS: The rustic sign out front reads; Open daily 11am - 12 midnight, Friday and Sat 11AM - 1 AM, CLOSED MONDAYS.
DECOR: Beyond its swinging wooden doors is a dining room that is painted Swiss Coffee on the upper half and ceiling with a wooden wainscoating below. Simple. Original. Comfy. On warm days, the cooking makes it even hotter, so there are three wooden ceiling fans that swirl above the seating areas.
The single sheet and very straight forward laminated menu includes, the Steak and Hickory burgers for $5.75, fries are $2.00 and drinks are $1.25. Other items include, tuna fish sammich $6.15, egg salad sammich $4.50, ham sammich $6.00, ice cream $2.50 and bottled water $1.20. A slice of pie will set you back $4.75 for the apple and $5.00 for the pecan or cream pies. While whole pies cost $14 for apple and $15 for pecan or cream pies. The soda list includes, Coke and Diet Coke, Dr, Pepper, Orange Crush, cream soda, 7 Up and root beer.
Service: These guys are seasoned veterans. The fast-paced restaurant relies heavily on its volume, so these guys are the best "burger-slingers" in the business. Within seconds of placing your order, they plop down a round cardboard plate filled with yummy fries and actually pour the ketchup onto another cardboard plate - for you... that is, unless you prefer mayo with your fries. Ewwww! Soon afterward, your beverage is brought to you in can form. Gone are the days they used to use bottled soda and they USED to open and pour that for you too. By the time your burger or sandwich arrives, at least half of your fries are gone.
Parking: There is a small parking lot for about 8 cars in the back, one metered space in front and metered parking all over Glendon and Pico. Parking can be tough, so leave early and expect to walk a bit unless you get lucky.
One thing I notice, people are very nice about the seating issue. It's not uncommon for someone to move to another seat in order for you to be able to sit with your eating mate. People don't lounge around after they eat, they are aware of the others waiting. Most people who eat there, are also long time customers. I chatted with one today. I told him that I miss the plastic cup holders with the beverage cones, and he told me that he remembers when they were metal cup holders.
Complaints: Like I said, there are only 24 seats (7 on each side and 10 in the front), so be prepared to stand for a bit. They tell me the average person finishes their meal within 8-15 minutes depending on if they have dessert or not. Be prepared to split up your party and eat in different ends of the counter at the busiest of times... that, or wait long enough for 3 or more seats to open up. It's not smart to show up with a large party, because only a few will be able to eat at a time. Also, I wish they made shakes or malts. They have the vanilla ice cream, they refuse to change the menu. That's a shame.
With tax, my meal set me back about $10.50. In the grand scheme of things, we're paying a little bit more so the Apple Pan doesn't have to sell out for big business. They probably pay huge property taxes for that chunk of prime Westwood real estate. It's nice that the Apple Pan hasn't gone the way of the Drive In movies. It's great they can stay open and keep the magic of the American diner alive and well, especially in a booming metropolis like Lost Angeles.
Side note: The menu isn't very vegan-friendly, although there are a few items Vegans can eat - depending on how far your convictions take you. Warning: this place is NOT for diabetics at all. As far as kids go, there is one high chair available, but the menu is geared more for adults. The fast-paced diner would be slowed down by kids. Setting up the high-chair, slow eaters etc, would just throw a wrench into the works.
At the bottom of their menu is a passage I thought was noteworthy: "It is the result of the effort to do simple things exceedingly well. Into every detail of our food goes that essential ingredient which is composed of quality, fine flavor and painstaking preparation. If we win your approval and repeated patronage, we shall have success in making the Apple Pan QUALITY FOREVER." AMEN.
UPDATE 1/30/05:
I ate there yesterday, and I was pleasantly surprised to have been told that the cup holders are coming back!!!! They found a vendor in China who still makes them. They received so many complaints about the styrofoam cups, that they had to do something about it. YAY!!!!
Also, please read my review for Good Stuff Burgers. It's my second favorite burger in Los Angeles --> Click Here
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Take your out-of-town friends, your family, your date - have some home-made pie and enjoy!
Best Suited For: Friends
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