After using the ATC for many years (and recommending it to others), I've now picked up the new ATC-XP, and like it even better. The XP version can be set up 2 ways: turned one way, the brake runs over a smooth surface of the device that's identical to the original ATC. Turned around 180 degrees, the brake runs over a notched surface, offering more friction.
I've found that the higher friction side offered a smoother, easier "catch" when belaying a leader-fall. The stress on the brake hand was reduced, yet the stop wasn't jerky for either the belayer or the leader. The high friction option is also great when rappeling on a thin rope. However, it is overkill when rapping on a 10.5 -- unless you think you're going to need to stop to pull some pro or something on the way down.
This anodized Black Diamond ATC Sport is a single-rope variable-friction belay device that is light and easy to operate.More at Eastern Mountain Sports
A single-rope, sport-cragging belay device, the ATC-Sport is built using the rest of the ATC family’s time-tested design. This simple, lightweight, h...More at Oregon Mountain Community
The anodized Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller is light, easy to operate and won’t lock up unexpectedly. A good choice for all-around use, the ATC...More at Oregon Mountain Community
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