I used to be a rock climbing instructor, and a facilitator at a local climbing gym. As such, I was always belaying persons while teaching. I used to use the old ATC and it was always tiring after so many belays. I would end the day with a sore arm many times, not from climbing but from belaying so many people without enough friction on the rope. With the new Black Diamond ATC-XP I am able to belay many people over and over again without getting sore. I have used it for top rope and lead belay and it works great for both.
One half of the ATC is smooth like the old ones. This is helpful if you are lead belaying or just require less friction on the rope. The other half has ridges and is in the shape of a V so that it can grab and hold the rope better. This is EXTREMELY helpful if you are belaying for long periods of time (i.e. when someone is setting a route in a climbing gym).
The ATC-XP usually costs about $20.00 and is worth every penny. It is great for use with ropes of different diameters varying from 8.1 to 11 mm. The design of it gives you the best use with minimal rope wear. Thus your ropes will last longer. If you're concerned with appearance, the ATC-XP is silver but has a plastic logo on it that comes in different colors such as blue, silver, and orange. The central webbing is also colored the same as the logo.
This is an excellent buy for any climber/belayer/repeller out there. People that I've let borrow it have loved it and I'm sure you will to. Enjoy!!
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