Sunday Mornings Might Be Better Spent Elsewhere If You're On a Budget
Written: Jun 18 '08 (Updated Jun 18 '08)
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Pros: * Wonderful decor and casual upscale ambiance
* Reasonably good American cuisine
Cons: * Overpriced
* Noisy
The Bottom Line: Sunday brunch is evidently very popular, but my guess is that it's tradition and the upscale ambiance that draws the crowds, not the decent but overpriced food.
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Maroon 5’s song “Sunday Morning” is stuck in my head as I think back on what was supposed to be a leisurely drive to the famed Buckeye Roadhouse in Mill Valley, California for Sunday brunch last weekend. The food was delicious, but our state of mind was probably skewed as we were starving and over an hour late due to a GPS navigation system error. I’ll explain more on that later. Suffice to say, this was a pleasant dining experience, but I’m not sure we’ll be returning anytime soon given its out-of-the-way locale and cost.
About the Restaurant
Buckeye Roadhouse is located in Mill Valley, a small affluent city about 4 miles north of San Francisco. A Mill Valley institution since the 1930s, the restaurant is now part of a corporate conglomerate that specializes in upscale cuisine.
We journeyed over the Golden Gate Bridge in the dense morning fog, driving northbound on the 101 freeway. Unfortunately, what was supposed to be an easy drive turned out to be an unexpected nausea-inducing ride, as we ended up on a desolate section of the two-lane Highway 1, peering over the cliffs at the ocean near Stinson Beach, 12 curvy miles past the restaurant. Why? Well, our GPS didn’t recognize that the obscure address, 15 Shoreline Highway, was tucked in by the 101 southbound freeway on-ramp. Instead, it sent us in the opposite direction toward the ocean. Blindly trusting the GPS, we only realized something was wrong when we noticed there was not a single sign of civilization near us when the GPS announced we had arrived. Please don’t make the same mistake if you decide to try this restaurant.
When we finally arrived, the restaurant looked gorgeous: it’s a large building reminiscent of a luxurious ski lodge with its generous use of wood and stone, high beamed ceilings, large picture windows, and a grand stone fireplace. It’s nestled in at the base of a hill, so one feels transported to a different locale than sunny California.
After leaving our car with the free valet service, we rushed up the ramp. Even though we were nearly an hour late, the front staff seated us immediately. I was so relieved, as I saw at least 8 others in the waiting area and feared we had another 30 minutes wait ahead of us.
We sat in the main dining room, to the left of the stone fireplace. We didn’t have a chance to see the bar, which I hear is quite lively in the evening, nor did we go up to the mezzanine where other diners sat. I found that the tables were a little close together for my taste. The hostess who seated us actually led us down one path, then had us reverse back to go down another path because it was blocked. Still, once we sat down, the high ceilings gave a more spacious feel to the main dining room.
The restaurant’s high ceilings and wood paneling seem to amplify sound, so it’s quite noisy. I imagine it was even noisier than usual on the day we went, as the restaurant was stuffed to the gills with families enjoying Sunday brunch on Father’s Day. We chose this restaurant as part of our childless weekend getaway to celebrate our wedding anniversary. Unfortunately, neither of us realized when we booked our vacation that the Sunday was the same day as Father’s Day until it was too late.
Yet even with the crowds, the atmosphere was still warm, casually upscale, and comfortable. This is not an overly formal stuffy restaurant. In fact, our waitress was even a tad too casual, bringing to mind a dressed up version of a diner waitress who calls her patrons "Hon." No wonder parents felt comfortable bringing toddlers and infants here!
About the food
At Buckeye, Sunday brunch is served until 3, so we were in luck. After being seated, I enjoyed two delicious Strawberry Mojitos ($10) while my husband “Brace33” had a Bloody Mary ($9.75) and then a Roadhouse Fizz ($8.50). I normally don’t like standard mojitos, but I was intrigued by the combination of muddled strawberries and mint and was not disappointed. While pricey, I found the delicious cocktails immediately calmed my nerves and helped banish any remaining trace of nausea from the drive to the ocean and back.
My husband’s Bloody Mary had a pleasant spicy kick to it, but seemed really ordinary to me. At this price, I expect something novel or at least a large glass. It was an ordinary sized glass and rather pedestrian Bloody Mary.
As for his Roadhouse Fizz, we both found that to be peculiar. I thought it tasted like a scented floral lotion or soap. Its description reads “Roadhouse Fizz with Our Special Homemade Fizz Mix & Premium Gin.” I’m not sure what fizz mix has in it, but it sure was unusual. This is not something either of us would order again.
We both tried to discreetly see what the other diners were enjoying and decided to focus on the breakfast items. I settled on the Buckeye Eggs Benedict on Cheddar Biscuits with Canadian Bacon ($11.95) after seeing the man to my left enjoying them and cut into two large deep-fried balls of what I later determined was mashed potato filling.
I love Eggs Benedict and these were distinctive, as the cheddar biscuits were a unique touch. While the biscuits were not as dry as I feared, I found the cheddar was not as sharp as I hoped, so the flavor wasn’t as prominent as it could have been. The hollandaise sauce was creamy and subtly flavored while the eggs were perfectly poached. The meat wasn’t very memorable, and I frankly can’t recall whether the Canadian bacon was well-executed; it was that forgettable. Still, I was starving so I inhaled the entire moderately sized portion.
My husband settled on the Sunny Side Up Eggs with Braised Short Ribs, Wild Mushrooms & Hash Browns ($13.70). This was a unique presentation, as the wild mushrooms and hash browns formed a circular base, upon which the eggs and boneless short rib meat sat on top. It looked like a breakfast pizza to me. The braised rib meat was tender, but the portion size was a bit skimpy, especially at this price for brunch.
We also shared an order of the Crispy Onion Rings with Mustard Seed Ketchup ($6.95). The best part of this side order was the mustard seed ketchup. The onion rings were sliced very thinly, barely battered, and almost ethereal. When I bit down on one ring, it crumbled into dust and disappeared. It was as if there was not any onion inside the ring, but just a bare casing of flour. I like my onion rings to have a little more substance, so I ended up trying to get a handful of onion rings into my mouth at once so there would be something to chew.
Other interesting details
Open 7 days a week for lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch, the Buckeye Roadhouse is apparently a great hot spot for dinner and people-watching. Given its distance from our home, I doubt we will head out there again to check out that scene.
Final Thoughts
While the food was tasty, I think most patrons choose Buckeye Roadhouse for its ambiance. This is the type of upscale, non-controversial restaurant where you might take your future in-laws for brunch. It’s a safe bet for those looking for standard American fare with an elegant touch without regard to budget. For my husband and me, we’ll likely stick to the low-key breakfast joints that offer outstanding food at a much more wallet-friendly price.
Recommended:
No
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Perhaps just enjoy a drink at the bar and save your money?
Best Suited For: Friends
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