I had been wanting to spend more time in Columbia, California, for long, long time. Although I had been there for five day trips spread out during the last 20 or so years, seeing the Columbia City Hotel in that preserved little historic town always intrigued me. I wanted to know what it was like. When I learned that it was haunted, my desire grew even stronger. As I considered candidates to review for the Great Hotel Write-Off, this little B&B soon came to mind. Between the incentive of another entry, the schedule for the town's local ghost walk, and an old friend's birthday, I booked a room for the last weekend in September. It made an excellent break from my routine in the San Francisco Bay Area.

The City Hotel is located within the center of Main Street in Columbia State Historic Park, a gold rush town where all the buildings within this sectioned-off area are authentic buildings preserved from the period. The several lots this building was developed on were bought by George Morgan in 1854 and 1865, but had been the victim of at least a couple of the town's early fires and was subject to a lot of remodeling. Many of the local residents are quick to inform people that the brick buildings in this town are not the original structures, but considering they were erected during 1850s, it's hard to see how that signifies. What is interesting to note is that these lots additionally accommodated an auction house, theater, music hall, blacksmith shop, hardware store, and living quarters for the Morgan family. Today, the saloon remains. The lower story now houses a three-star restaurant and its front desk. The upper level now provides the guest rooms, showers, and a parlor.

Ghost Walks are scheduled once or twice month through the City Hotel. Although I had a hunch that the City Hotel was haunted, it was on a previous walk that I had learned that the ghost on the premises is that of a young grieving mother, who staff have dubbed Elizabeth. One rocking chair, which has moved to various spots throughout the hotel, was known to rock without anyone being in it.


My City Hotel experience

Probably the most frustrating point I had with staying at the Columbia City Hotel was trying to book my room. I wanted it to coincide with one of the ghost walks. This is a small town; its demand for these tours is not as great as they are in San Francisco, Toronto, or London, so they occur less frequently. When I called in early August, dates had not yet been arranged for September. By the time I called again in early September, my request for the most haunted room, either 1 or 6, was denied. They had already been booked. Annoyed, I took a room that was available, which turned out to be one with a double bed. I knew my companion, Lisa, long enough and well enough to know she wouldn't try to spoon me, so I could live with that. While I was at it, I also reserved a table for its restaurant and a couple of spots in the ghost walk.

Columbia State Historic Park is easy enough to find. The drive from the Bay Area is about 2–3 hours, depending on traffic and how many stops are made along the way. Signs on the nearby freeways of 49 and 120/108 assist motorists, followed by even bigger ones indicating when I found spot along Parrott's Ferry Road. Three or four parking lots are provided for visitors, but one is specifically designated for City Hotel guests. At the end of September, parking certainly was no problem. Believe it or not, Columbia also has a small airport, although it has no commercial flights.

As we arrived, signs outside of the building promised "beds with springs," "seasonal delicacies available," and "most favorable terms." Hoyt checked us in around 3 p.m. and everything went smoothly. It was a good thing my weekend went as planned; I later learned that the management had already charged my Visa for both nights the day before we arrived, so they're serious about their cancellation policies. Lisa and I were given keys for both our room and the front door, in case we were out later than Hoyt's quitting time. I declined the help of a porter, but Lisa had four or five bags she was trying to carry at once. (I had my hands full with just the two I brought with me.) A fellow assisted her efforts in hauling the big one up the stairs.

Room 9 was lovely. Pale yellow wallpaper spotted by a coronet design and white trim decorated the walls. All of the furniture, which included a bed, straightback chair, chest of drawers and nightstand (the latter two items marble-topped), were antiques. There was no closet, but a row of hooks were bolted to the wall. A quilt covered the bed. Although the room was small, it was spacious. The bed was full-size and did indeed have springs. It had a hardwood floor covered with a big Persian carpet. The windows were adorned with shades and lace curtains. Our view overlooked a park with picnic tables and a bandstand. It had a country simplicity that was quite charming. After my experience at the historic Bisbee Grand, it was pleasant to find this hotel had air conditioning. It was warm in Columbia during our stay.

When one stays at a historic hotel, one has to expect that they probably won't provide all the amenities received at a four-star hotel. This one has no phone, television, radio, clock, or hairdryer. None of the rooms at the City Hotel have a full bathroom, although it was a great relief to have our private toilet and sink vanity. Inside our little restroom, we were supplied a little bar of hand soap and bottle of shampoo. What showed some cleverness on the part of management was that each guest was provided a handbasket that held a bath towel, unisex seersucker robe, bathmat, washcloth, soap, shower cap, and disposable slippers. When I've stayed at similar establishments in the past, such a consideration was never given before. It was so convenient to put those toiletries I regularly use in the shower in one portable container and not have to fumble with items I would frequently forget or drop. It made the business of going down the hall to shower much more painless. The towels were also clean, soft, and fluffy. The biggest complaint I had with the process was that the little shelves in the showers were almost useless. My soap and shampoo were constantly either falling or being knocked off.

But most of all, this place was clean, clean, clean. I had no interest in those slippers as I enjoyed walking around barefoot in this place.

As for the City Hotel's dining facilities, breakfast was served between 8–9:30 a.m. There was no full-scale country breakfast, but it did a little better than simple continental items. It served quiche; fruit salad; yogurt; orange juice; coffee, tea, & hot chocolate; fresh-baked sourdough, scones, & muffins; and cereals. Some of these items came out of the oven as Lisa and I sat at the table. The crust of the quiche was a little dark, but it was quite tasty regardless.

At 5 p.m., the City Hotel offers its guests some sherry in the parlor. I'm not much of a drinker, but this was nonetheless a nice little custom. It gave guests a chance to meet and chat. Reading material was also available to peruse, Hoyt said some of it was even current. (I had brought a book with me.)

The City Hotel and its restaurant are the training ground for Columbia Community College's Hospitality Management Program. During my day trips to Columbia, my party had tried to take a table at the restaurant, but was always turned away because we had no reservation. This time I had the foresight to avoid that situation again. The menu had a nice variety of upscale meat-and-potatoes type of meals; some items were not typical fare. We each started with soup. I tried the vegetable with polenta and Lisa braved the cold cucumber-avocado. Both were good, but I would not have taken what I did if I had known one of the vegetables were red bell peppers. Although I have acquired a tolerance for the green, I never liked the flavor of the red. For the main course, my sense of adventure prompted me to try the venison with mashed sweet potatoes and caramelized onions and Lisa chose the crab-topped steak filet with mashed potatoes. Both were very attractive to look at and trimmed with a few stalks of tender baby asparagus. Lisa and I both enjoyed our entrées. The service was quite friendly and professional. The waitress even offered to snap photos of the both of us. This restaurant also has a wine list of over 150 selections that has won awards.

Without the amenities of a four-star hotel, checkout was easy. There was no need to worry about phone, pay-per-view, or minibar charges since they weren't offered. We simply returned our keys and Hoyt gave us the final receipt.


The ghost stuff

According to Hoyt, staff and guests around the hotel have run across cold spots, the lingering fragrance of perfume, and heard weeping and moaning with no apparent source. The rooms with the most reported activity are 1, 6, and the parlor.

Thanks to Carol Beiderman, our tour guide for the ghost walk, visitors and locals alike can hear the details of the ghost stories about Columbia's City Hotel. One story has it that a couple who stayed in room 1, next to room 6, were awakened during the night by the sound of woman crying and moaning. Since they were the only guests staying in the hotel that stormy night, they informed management of the occurrence.

One desk clerk who was working the graveyard shift, had to dispatch some items to housekeeping closet upstairs. As he passed through the parlor, he noticed an upset woman crying over her baby. He was a little concerned, but quickly completed his errand before he asked if there was anything he could do to help. When he returned, she had disappeared.

Beiderman said, after doing some research on the hotel, there was an incident in the 19th century when a brawl occurred in the downstairs saloon and someone fired a gun. The bullet penetrated the floor of the second and was said to have killed a baby in room 1.

More phenomena occurred in room 10, when one guest claimed that someone shook her awake two nights in a row. The speculated source of that one is from none other than George Morgan, the original owner of the hotel. He ended his own life at the age of 79 by hanging himself from a beam behind the saloon.

I found it rather amusing Saturday evening when Lisa confessed to me she was nervous about going to bed the night before. Perhaps it's a sadistic streak, but having visited so many haunted hotels recently I knew she was safe sharing a room with me. Since I'd be intrigued to see something paranormal, it'd be no fun spooking me. Still, it's hard to tell how I'd react until I actually see something happen. Personally, what vibes I felt there that weekend seemed more observant than anything else.


The bottom line

The Columbia City Hotel has 10 guest rooms available to let throughout the year. Rates range from $105–125. Room rate includes a complimentary breakfast buffet and evening sherry served in the parlor. No smoking or pets are allowed in the hotel. Check-out time is 11 a.m. and it accepts Mastercard, Visa, American Express, and Discover. To cancel a reservation, a 72-hour notice is required. Since this is a historical building, it has no handicap accommodations. The only way upstairs is by the stairs.

Quite frankly, I liked this little B&B. Lisa and I kept busy enough to overcome the TV DTs. (I frequently use it for white noise.) Aside from the electricity, indoor plumbing, and a/c, it gave us a taste of how the 49ers lived. I floundered between whether this would be considered either a romantic getaway or adventure travel, but in the end I go with the latter. People wanting something romantic usually prefer to have their privacy assured with a full bathroom. I wouldn't mind visiting the City Hotel again. Who knows? I may have a ghost sighting sooner or later.


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Many thanks to Hotel and Travel Category Lead Di (SurgRN911) for adding this product page so I could submit this review. Sorry it took so long for me to post.

This is an entry in the (2003) Great Hotel Write-Off, hosted by lyagushka and tombarnes. It's fun and supports the spirit of a common goal: providing consumers and Epinions with a wealth of consumer information that you can find nowhere else. For more info and to read the entries by other contestants, please go to http://www.angelfire.com/moon/lyagushka/index.html


Recommended: Yes