Craftsman Professional 10 in. Radial Arm Saw, Stationary 22038

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Return Of the Good, the bad and the down right Ugly

Feb 12, 2002 (Updated Feb 14, 2002)
Review by  
Rated a Very Helpful Review

Pros:A versatile saw with great cross-cut capacity, and compound capability.

Cons:Adjustment, adjustment and MORE adjustment.

The Bottom Line: Ideal as a Dimensioning Saw. But the adjustment and alignments may be too fussy for professional users. There are better choices.



The radial arm saw has a rotten and deservedly bad reputation with woodworkers. It typically suffers from poor accuracy, complex operation, and some potentially dangerous modes of operation. The Craftsman professional radial arm saw is the latest incarnation in a long lineage of products dating back to the 1950’s. The radial arm saw’s abilities are often over promoted, in an attempt to place this saw as the ideal home woodworker’s solution to limited space. It is, however, no match for the current generation of universal machine such as; the Laguna Knapp, Rojek or Felder in terms of capability or precision.


A radial arm saw basically consists of a motor (rather like a handheld circular saw) suspended from a long arm, in a yoke, which permits multiple degrees of rotation freedom for the motor assembly. The motor assembly connects to the overhead arm by a carriage assembly that traverses the arm’s length when manually pulled by the operator. All parts of this complex assembly may be locked into a particular position as desired by the user. To achieve a simple 90 degree cross cut the saw is pulled from back to front, through the fence (yes through the fence… it’s made of wood) towards you, the user. Using the Bevel index it is possible to produce a bevel cut. Changing the angle of the overhead arm to the fence creates simple miter cuts, and (with the bevel index) compound cuts.

Pulling the saw towards you is not the most comfortable experience, not in the least because the rotation of the saw blade is away from you. As such, the cutting action is designed to force the blade into the material. In Newton’s laws, every action causes an equal and opposite reaction. The resultant torque reaction forces the blade up, accelerating it towards you. This tendency is referred to as “Climbing”, and gets worse the faster you allow the saw to feed itself through the material. To avoid this reaction, it is necessary to reduce the feed rate. The new Control Cut feature exclusive to the Craftsman saw has been designed to minimize this phenomenon (more on this further on).

Rotating the motor yoke assembly through 90 degrees puts a radial arm saw into the rip position. With the blade turned 90 degrees toward the column, the saw is said to be in the “in-rip” position. Rotating the blade 90 degrees in the opposite direction (i.e. 180 degrees from the in-rip position) sets the saw up for the so called, “out-rip” position. For rip positions the material is fed into the saw “against” the blade. The rip positions are the most dangerous applications of a radial arm saw. Failure to deploy the “anti-kick back” bar on the saw exposes you to the very real risk of high speed ejection of material. Feeding material in the wrong side of the saw is even more dangerous and can result in an uncontrollable high speed ejection of material, and the possibility of pulling you into the machine at the same time.

Finally, a radial arm saw can cut through the table as well as the fence when it is used to cross-cut material. The rip mode will also require the sacrifice of the table top when cutting all the way through wood. For this reason, most users cover the wood top with a thin piece of ¼ ply. While this reduces the saw cut capacity, it does prolong the life of the table.


Richard Sears started in 1886 selling watches, and hired Alvah C. Roebuck (a watch maker) in 1887. In 1888 Sears started the earliest catalog selling watches and jewelry. In 1893 the corporate name became Sears, Roebuck & Co. The company's first retail store was opened in Chicago in 1925. In 1927 Sears launched the Craftsman brand. Craftsman® is a registered trademark of Sears.

The Craftsman Radial Arm saw was originally made by the Emerson Tool Co., for Sears. Early Craftsman Radial Arm saws, dating back from 1958 through 1992 are now subject to a safety recall because of a problem with the protection (guarding) of the blade. The current product is “not” subject to this recall notice. However, purchasers of a “used” Craftsman radial arm saw may want to check out the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission notice of November 14, 2000 ( Some of these saws can be modified; however, earlier models cannot and must be scrapped. As such, you may be better served in considering the current product in light of this situation. In addition to having better safety features, a new Craftsman Radial Arm saw comes with a warranty, no wear (an important consideration with this tool), and thus improved accuracy.

A while back Emerson Tool Co. started supplying Home Depot with the RIDGID brand of tools. The equivalent RIDGID tool is the RS1000. There are some small, but “significant” differences between the tools - besides the color! The RIDGID tool is an alternate to the Sears Craftsman product. More important, accessories are interchangeable between the two saws, which is a distinct positive.


The radial arm saw is not for the faint hearted. It is a complex beast that requires great patience and understanding. Treated with respect, and a lot of TLC, this tool can be a valuable asset to both the weekend woodworker, and the professional. However, in the later case, the saw’s fundamental weaknesses will limit the cost effectiveness of using a tool such as this in a production environment.

The saw is powered by a superb 13.0A @ 110v, induction motor, Both the Sears and the RIDGID product claim to have a delivered work output equivalency of 1.5 HP. According to my trusty copy of “UGLY’s Electrical References”, this appears optimistic. To achieve an instantaneous delivered power rating of 1.5 HP, the saw motor would in fact have to draw 20 amps from an 110v supply! The manufacturers claim this is the amount of “developed” power, the wonders of inertia! The saw motor can be adapted to 220 volt, and will likely perform better at this supply voltage. Specifically, you can expect it to reach operating speed faster; with faster recovery from over loading, and “possibly” a little more developed power. The motor spins the blade to 3,450 rpm. The use of a totally enclosed, fan cooled motor (TEFC) for this saw is a much understated feature. It has a thermal overload, and a reset to protect the motor from undue stress. This motor has gobs of torque, and runs very quiet, with an authoritative induction motor hum that tells you that this tool means business. It is truly one of the nicest features of this tool.

Most important the power from the motor is delivered through an industry standard 5/8” arbor. The maximum blade size is 10 inches. At the rear of the motor is a power take-off shaft (½-20 threaded) suitable for running certain specific accessories available for this tool.

The Craftsman saw features a safety locking key on the motor control switch. This is a nice addition for the home shop, as it allows the saw to be disabled, preventing unauthorized use of the tool. Spare plastic keys are available from Sears. If you use this feature a lot, it may be worthwhile purchasing spares, as the tool is completely unusable without the key.

The saw provides cross-cut and rip cutting capabilities. In addition the tool is capable of miter, bevel and compound cuts.



Cut Depth @ 45 Degrees 2.25 inches
Cut Depth @ 90 Degrees 3 inches
Depth of Throat 13 inches
Depth of cut 15 ½ inches @ 1 inch depth

¾ Inch Cut Depth Left 6 inches
¾ Inch Cut Depth Right 8 5/8 inches

Miter Indexing: 0-48 Degrees Right/Left
Bevel Indexing: 0 Degree
45 Degrees and 90 Degrees (Left Hand Only)


In RIP 13 inches
Out RIP 26 inches

Table size: 40” x 27” with 3 position fence


Accessories are available for the Craftsman Radial Arm saw, to extend its capabilities. This includes; a planer/molding head, a drill chuck to fit power take off, a small drum sander, mobile base and an essential dust collection device. In addition, a Surface Sander kit is available from (Performax 22-44 22"- 44" Surface Sander) for circa $379. This sander might be a good application for one of the earlier non-conforming (safety recall) radial arm saws (at least instead of throwing it out!)


So much for the specs... In practice when you buy this saw, what you get is a large box (it should fit in the average SUV), weighing a healthy 203 lb. So you'll need friends to get it out! You’ll also need the following tools:

Wrenches: 7/16”, ½”, 9/16”, 5/8”, and 15/16”
Hex Wrench: 1/8”
Screwdrivers: One Medium Flat Blade, and One Philips
Other Tools: Mechanics Hammer (small), Bull-nose pliers
Measurement Tools: Large (2ft) Framing Square

I also recommend: Large Combination Square, Small Level, Long nose pliers
and Ruler

The assembly is considerably more complex than the average contractor/bench table saw. Furthermore, if you get this wrong it can be down right dangerous. So READ THE INSTRUCTIONS - several times! Expect to take between 6 and 9 hours to assemble and adjust the saw when setting the tool up. The important take away is that care with each step, and each adjustment will result in a tool that is accurate, and easier to maintain. So don't rush assembly is the message here. Pay particular attention to the blade angle settings.

This also highlights the problem with the saw in use. The adjustments need to be checked extremely regularly. This is a device that needs TLC to get the best out of it. If you do it right, the saw will perform well. Lastly, be careful to get the table level right - it needs to slightly slope away from you to help minimize the saw sliding towards you when operating it.


The Achilles heel of the radial arm saw is the adjustment process. It is lengthy, tedious and too dependent on the skills and instincts of the user. In this regard the Sears model 22038 Radial Arm Saw lives up to the “Craftsman” label. There are numerous steps, and if not followed with extreme care will result in profound disappointment – a tool that cuts badly and is incapable of producing a true square to fence cut.

To achieve this simple objective, it would seem that the adjustment of the main arm to the column is all it should take. However, this is, as it turns out to be, wholly misleading – and is a hole in which many less expert users fall foul of this beast. This is because in addition to squareness to the fence, the motor assembly requires adjustment, or more specifically alignment, which is an altogether more complex process. Failure to address alignment leads to a distressing symptom called “heeling.” This undoubtedly leads to a significant number of needless product returns to the local Sear’s store. The source of heeling is a failure to align the leading and trailing edge of the saw blade with the carriage travel of the overhead arm. Thus, any amount of adjustment of the blade to the fence, results in consistent failure, as the blade travels through the cut at a slight angle. The result is that in the trailing edge of the blade rubbing on the newly cut edge - resulting in significant splintering, and damage to the trimmed wood face. In severe circumstances it is possible for this to cause ejection of the wood from the table, Prevention of heeling can only be accomplished by adjustment on two planes, fence to blade, and table to surface to blade (i.e. horizontal, and vertical planes).

The saw requires 7 primary adjustments, 6 preliminary alignment checks, and 7 final alignments. The user manual states that “…Often, a series of steps must be repeated more than once in order to get the adjustment right. There are many adjustments to be made….” Failure to follow the manufacturer’s set up procedures not only causes cutting problems, it can also result in degradation of potential saw accuracy. This is because the final performance of the saw is a compound product of each of the successive stages of adjustment. A fine publication on this subject is “Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw” by Jon Eakes (Sterling Publications; ISBN: 0921335040), which can be found on, albeit in the used books section.


This is an exclusive Craftsman feature. Basically, the theory of operation is that a cable is attached to the motor assembly, and depending on the user selection, the cable retards the motor assembly in cross cut. The settings:


Wood Type: Setting: Feet/Sec
Hard A 0-6 ft
Medium B 0-20 ft
Soft C 0-35 ft

Bevel Cross-cut:

Wood Type: Setting: Feet/Sec
All A 0-6 ft

Miter Cross-cut:

Wood Type: Setting: Feet/Sec:
Hard A 0-6 ft
Medium B 0-20 ft
Soft C 0-35 ft

Compound Cross-cut:

Wood Type: Setting: Feet/Sec:
All A 0-6 ft

The settings for the “Control Cut” feature are made by a small rotary switch on top of the yoke handle on the motor assembly. Rotating it, selection runs A through to C, and is invoked by the red trigger conveniently placed on the handle. The control cut cable must be attached to the motor assembly first. It also must be plugged into the wall outlet socket along with the main motor. The function of the control cut is to retard the maximum rate of the saw in cross-cut mode (it has no relevance in rip mode.) In this regard this feature appears to be a useful step in the evolution of the radial arm saw…but, it is only available on the Craftsman saw.


When using other saw blades in the Craftsman radial arm saw, be sure to take care and select only the blade types recommended for this application. Do not use the blades from your table saw, or whatever is on special offer at the store. This is likely to lead to an unpleasant experience! The angle of the blade is significantly more aggressive for a wood working table saw blade. Freud produces several fine blades for the radial arm saw. Their blades feature a so called “anti-kickback limitator”. This is a tiny projection at the back shoulder of the blade hook which limits the maximum tooth bite to that blade design. The shoulder is the part of the blade body directly behind each tooth which provides support for the tooth. This innovation is claimed by the manufacturer to have significantly reduced the number of accidents in Europe since their introduction. Freud manufactures a superb Teflon coated sliding miter crosscut blade for the radial arm saw, LU91R010 (10 inches) which is available from The manufacturer also produces a Safety Dado (Freud SD506 Super Dado) set which only removes 0.2mm per tooth. Again this limits the climb cut effect on the radial arm saw, and is also available from and other on-line vendors. Freud recently launched their website, which is a good source for information on their cutting tools,


The saw is a little funky in use since, as it cuts through wood, it also cuts slightly through the table when parting off. This is a deliberate part of the radial saw design, and the table is meant to be sacrificial. As noted it is probably worth putting a thin sheet of three ply covering over the base board to increase its life. I would also replace the cheap wood fence that comes with the saw. (I had to because I threw mine away when I unpacked my saw – OOPs!) I used a piece of Poplar wood, and have several other fences of various sizes to accommodate various moldings etc., when mitering. A useful enhancement is to attach a self adhesive measure tape on top of the fence, and use a low cost end stop to set cut-off length more easily. This is available from, look for “Broset” ‘Precision Stop Block’, model number G2993, for circa $33.95. The measuring tape is available in right or/and left indicating for circa $6.95, model number G3120 and G3121.


The Health & Safety Executive (HSE) in the United Kingdom publish an extremely useful safety information sheet for radial arm saws – see - “Safe Use of Manually Operated Cross-Cut Saws: Woodworking Sheet No, 36. Of note is the recommendation to set yellow tape at 300 mm (circa 12 inches) either side of the saw line, to mark a no-hands area.

As for rip use...I don't use it, nor should you. If you need rip capacity go out and buy a cheap table saw – it’s safer, and has similar capacity, for way less hassle. A low cost 10” Bench saw is available from a number of manufacturers, including Delta (#36-545) for anywhere between $100-150 see, or your local Home Depot/Lowes/local tool store. The rip feature simply is not worth the hassle. As noted in the HSE document “…Accident experience has shown that even when setup correctly, the operation of ripping using a cross-cut saw is less safe than using a circular saw bench.”

The “Control Cut” concept is innovative and definitely makes the saw more useable, and better for novice users. While in operation it successfully overcomes the issue of saw “climbing” in cross-cut mode, I have several concerns. First this is an active device, i.e. powered. Any failure in the “Control Cut” power drive, cable, or cable termination could result in unexpected loss of control by the user. Furthermore, the position of the “Control Cut” mechanism exposes it to copious amounts of saw dust as it is situated behind the saw blade…thereby increasing the potential for future breakdown. More importantly, the “Control Cut” feature on the Sears Craftsman Radial Arm Saw is, in my “epinion” no substitute for better blade guarding. While the current product meets the basic requirement for guarding, it could be significantly improved as demonstrated on its twin the RIGID RS1000, which features a full wrap around guard in accord with the HSE recommendations. In comparison the Craftsman product has a thin plastic blade guard covering the left hand side of the blade. Let us hope that in 2002 Sears will introduce comprehensive blade guarding.

Another nasty feature of the Craftsman Radial Arm saw is the 'lack' of dust control measures available. You will quickly end up with sawdust and chippings everywhere. With a dado blade you will be inches deep in no time. As such I
recommend the purchase of a dust extraction hood. Hang it on to a small/medium dust collection system, and wear a dust mask.

Finally, with such a complex tool it is worth investing in a few good books. has several examples: “Radial Arm Saw Basics” (Basics Series)
by Roger W. Cliffe, also by the same author is “Radial Arm Saw Techniques. A personal favorite are De Christoforo’s books on power tools. These prove to be an excellent tutorial text, and he has one book specifically written on the Radial Arm Saw called “Magic of Your Radial Arm Saw.” These books are often available from used book resellers such as, and their partners. If you are interested in finding out more about what it takes to assemble the Sear’s Craftsman Radial Arm saw, the manual for its twin, the RIDGID RS1000 is available on line at and this covers all necessary adjustments and set-up.


Set-up correctly, this saw can surprise, if not delight in its capabilities. With a good blade you get very clean cuts in soft wood, and an almost mirror like finish in hardwoods. Of course you will, without any form of dust handling end up knee deep in dust and chaff. That dust hood, as poor as it, is a welcome addition to keeping things in control. Over a 12” cross cut the saw has a very slight error of around 1/32”. With weekend use, adjustments are required around five to six weeks – basic checks every time out. You do need to pay attention to cleaning as failing to do so can lead to premature wear, especially on the steel over head slide tracks and carriage bearings. Control cut will come into its own when cutting gnarled (or knotty) wood which causes the saw to react vigorously as it hits the boundaries of discontinuity in the wood. Without the control cut feature of the Craftsman saw, you will need to maintain significant force to stop the saw from accelerating at you as it tries to climb the wood. This experience is what un-nerves my neighbor who has an earlier Sear’s/Craftsman radial arm saw without Control cut. The use of a standard table saw blade will further deteriorate the saw’s behavior under these circumstances.

As a miter box, the saw’s weaknesses tend to show. It can be hard to read the settings as the angle gauge is at the rear (towards the top) of the saw. It is also accurate to at best a degree or so, with emphasis on “so.” Locking detents at 45 degrees would be a great addition.

When cutting large, heavy stock the table top is prone to deflection to quite a significant degree- so, roller supports would be essential in this case. The saw may actually perform better built into a bench to provide in-feed and out-feed support. The depth adjustment works much better than expected. Around one crank of the wheel yields 1/16” depth of cut. It also means that you get to whirl that crank quite vociferously on projects such as dado joints etc. The elevation mechanism has about 1/32” of hysterisis (sticktion) so far. As this part is prone to the greatest stress, I am expecting this performance to degrade slowly over time.

I don’t use the rip capability of this saw. If I did, I would be extremely dissatisfied with the markings, the adjustment, and the marker on this saw. On the other hand, it is a further disincentive to using this facility.

The power take off on the back of the saw motor is a nice feature. In practice (like any form of universal machine) the constant assembly, and adjustment required, makes this slightly less useful in practice. The most useful accessory appears to be the drill chuck allowing horizontal boring to be easily accomplished (I think this is rather nifty). The planer/molding attachment, however, is poor.

Finally, I strongly advise using good quality clamps to secure the wood when cutting. I would also not use this tool with small pieces of wood, as the manufacturer advises. It would take the user too close to the blade for safety…and comfort!


There are several determinations to be made when considering a Radial Arm saw as a potential addition to your tool collection. If you are a home wood worker, and looking to start your own shop, you may be sold on the”potential” of a saw that can cross-cut, miter, rip, plane etc. Don’t do it. This is marketing hype. If you are starting out, you should consider the purchase of a quality table saw, drill press etc (….this is, however, another subject.) In fact- given the complexity of assembly, adjustment and alignment- you should consider your purchase options carefully. Next you need to consider the type of woodwork, and your needs based on the processes you require to perform them. Things to consider; are types of joinery you will perform, the size and scale of stock to be processed, and the necessary accuracy. For lap joints, overhead dados, and cut-offs the saw is useable. The radial arm saw excels at framing, for which it was originally designed. For cabinetry, however, you will have your work cut out for you- but it is possible.

If you are a professional, the only question I would pose is whether this tool is sufficiently robust enough for hard use. There are better choices. If your needs are modest, and you can afford the time to maintain, and adjust the tool, then the Sears Craftsman tool might be worth considering.


The Control Cut feature on the Sears Craftsman Radial Arm saw is a step in the right direction to improve the usability of this tool for novices. Recommended Use for the Sears Craftsman Radial Arm Saw:

As a (cross-cut) dimensioning saw first and foremost.

As a miter/compound saw.

The Good:
+ Control Cut feature
+ Powerful, Induction Motor
+ Quality of finish of parts (excluding above)
+ Safety Key power switch

The Bad:
- RIP mode
- Miter Accuracy
- Adjustments, and more adjustment, and alignment, followed by more alignment
- Blade guarding

The Ugly:
- Weak/Poor table brackets
- Thin table top, prone to flexing under heavy loads
- Cheap wood fence (I initially threw it away thinking it was packing material!)
- Miter Angle/Bevel Markings difficult to read


The Sears Craftsman Radial Arm saw deserves a rethink. There are several improvements I would like to suggest:

[1]. Control Cut.

This is an “excellent” concept. However, why not dispense with the complication of cables etc, and replace this with a mechanical gear drive from the yoke carriage to the overhead arm track, and use a resistive damper to limit travel velocity? The resistance to forward motion could be varied by a simple hand adjusted clamp, making it more robust and reliable.

[2]. Miter Angle Set.

A simple LED display, coupled with appropriate transducer, would greatly aid setting angles on this saw, which currently puts it at a disadvantage to miter box saws.

[3]. Depth Gauge.

One revolution of the hand crank yields around 1/16 inch cut. It would be hugely helpful to have a simple LED read out, with zeroing to set depth cuts quickly.

[4]. Turret Adjustment.

The current method is arcane. The removal of various plastic covers etc, are frustrating. Further, grasping the overhead track and trying to set this square to the fence is a pain. Why can’t offset bias screw adjustors be used to provide the adjustment?

[5]. Saw Table

A better table to support framework and thicker top is required. The current arrangement flexes when used with heavy stock. This is an easy fix.

[6]. Router Attachment

The ability to attach a router to carriage would be a useful addition to the radial arm saw’s capabilities.


There are listed some 51 accessories for the Sear/Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. Although no form of mobile base is suggested. The RIDGID AC1050 mobile base (for the RS1000 Radial Arm Saw) might work. The two highly recommended accessories to start with are:

+ Dust Collector (Sears Part number: 00929963000)
+ Mobile Wheels (Take Care to CHECK THE TABLE LEVEL when using these.)


Best of all, you can buy this tool, and its accessories on-line from either, or which will be very useful to potential purchasers in rural areas. The product is backed by a standard one year warranty by Sears. However, check the small print for what is, and is not covered. In addition, the product is supported by Sears with a return policy, and the Sear’s "Satisfaction Guaranteed or Your Money Back" (excluding shipping and packing charges, and a $40.00 home pickup fee.) Also available is an onsite maintenance contract starting at circa $59.00. This may be a sound investment if you get into trouble assembling this tool at home.


This is not a low cost purchase, it takes room, and it’s not really as versatile as it is hyped up to be by various manufacturers and marketers. In fact that versatility comes at the expense of accuracy, and maybe safety in some modes. Make sure you know what you are getting into with this tool. One of the competitor’s sales people summarized it well "’s an aggressive tool." After investigating the Radial Arm saw and convincing myself that this tool was indeed necessary I looked into the Sears unit. I was very impressed by the “Control-Cut” function. However, after a review of the HSE safety recommendations, I chose the manufacturer’s other offering...the RIDGID RS1000 radial arm saw. If the same blade guard had been available on the Sears Craftsman product, this would have clinched the sale.

If you do purchase any Radial Arm Saw, please, please read the instructions!!! Adhere to all the safety instructions. If you like the Sear's unit check out their returns, they can sometimes be had for as low as $350.00 (But the saw will take time and money to fix up usually, so the saving is not as large as it may seem.) Also check out Sear’s monthly specials, this tool is more often on sale than others. Craftsman club members receive various monthly discounts on Sear’s products. It costs nothing to obtain membership, and provides regular discount offers on Craftsman tools such as the Radial Arm Saw.

If you do not need to use a dado blade, and hopefully have no intention of using the rip function, you may find the range of compound miter saws well worth checking out. The Radial Arm Saw grew out of the construction industry. Today, you will be unlikely to see one of these saws on site. The new compound saws, are portable (i.e. smaller & lighter), more accurate, and stable (with regard to adjustment) making them now the popular choice in the construction industry (see “Sliding Compound Saws by Dave Crosby.) These are available in 8” through to massive 12” sizes from; Sears, Dewalt, Delta, Makita, Hitachi, Porter-Cable, et al… There are also some great choices if all you need is a power Miter- box, - personal favorites are the Bosch and Dewalt units. These are affordable, and suffer none of the vices of the Radial Arm Saw.

If you are looking for a used Radial Arm saw consider looking for either Delta, or Dewalt tools as they hold up well, and thus command a high price accordingly. The Dewalt unit was withdrawn from the US market a while back, but is still available on the export market and is very expensive. The Delta units are still in manufacture, and available at Delta is now the only premium supplier for radial arm saws, with units available in 10”, 12” and a massive 16”. The Delta saw should be the hard working professional’s choice. Alternatively you could also check out “The Original Saw” company (


Thanks to Epinions member’s for feedback on the original review. In particular “The_Gas_Man” and “Guisbuild” for their constructive input! Thanks also to Caprig for the helpful editorial advice, much appreciated.

UPDATED 2-14-02: Changes Made:

(1)Header style, and some titles.
(2)Added Warranty information.
(3)Noted safety key on saw on-off control.
(4)Outline of Sears corporate history, and Craftsman brand.

Recommend this product? Yes

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