onehotchili's Full Review: Don Graydon, James Martin, Mark F. Twight - Extrem...
This book is one of the single best books there is on alpine climbing. Mark Twight is infamous for his daring "lightning" fast climbs in Alaska, the Himalayas, Europe, among other places in the world. Where other people took weeks and tons of equipment to climb a mountain, Twight was able to do it in 48 hours with 30 lb. packs, some rope, gu, and ice screws. He has his climbing down to a science for his nutrition, training, equipment, and mental needs.
The great thing is in this book he outlines it all, giving his opinion on what works and what does not... and more importantly, why. For example, in the down vs. synthetic debate that has raged for years with outdoor enthusiast, Twight gives his view for synthetics being superior for climbers despite their added bulk and weight. He then offers his views on layering clothing with big synthetic jackets *over* your shell jacket. It is these little things that most books never talk about that set this one apart. Of course he talks about advanced climbing techniques in setting ice protection. Sprinkled in with the nuggets of information are also bits of stories about his and other peoples climbs, their epic adventures, and harrowing tales of good fortune and sometimes death.
Overall, this book is a MUST READ for any climber/mountaineer. What can I say... Mark Twight is my new hero.
Big, high routes at the edge of a climber s ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal...More at Buy.com
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