Eze Village , The Riviera's Showcase In The Hills
Written: Oct 11 '02 (Updated Oct 11 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Staggering heights,Exotic plants, Fantastic views.. Great medieval village.
Cons: too many tourists..and I'm not there now with them!
The Bottom Line: A spectacular example of the Medieval hillside perched villages of the Cote d' Azur.
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| ifif1938's Full Review: Eze |
In my last review I wrote about two of the most spectacular and not too well known “Perched Villages” of the “Cote ‘d Azur”, now I want to write about two, that though more on the beaten track then Ste’ Agnes and Roquebrune, still have the charm and uniqueness of those two but with a few more visitors to contend with as you walk the tiny, twisty maze of streets, this tangle of narrow streets which makes exploring and discovering these villages the exciting and fascinating pastime that it is.
For many years these tiny enclosed worlds were connected to the rest of the world by just a few mule tracks but now with the Grande Corniche or high road, the road built by Napoleon, that links the upper villages, the Moyenne Corniche or the middle road, a wide open modern highway, and the Corniche Inferiure, or lower road, built by the Prince of Monaco, these villages are within everyone’s reach and enables any and all who wish to seek a few adventures outside of the ordinary an easy and delightful journey..That is, except for a few of the roads that get a bit hairy when you leave the actual Corniche to venture off on your own.
The most popular, most famous and well known of these villages is Eze Village. Of all the perched villages along the Riviera, with it’s quaint medieval core and cobblestone streets, overlooking the sea, Eze remains the most popular ..As I sit here looking at the wall of pictures in front of me, my favorite is one I took of Eze as we approached on the road leading to this most picturesque spot…Standing alone in the hills, it appears to have been built like an eagles nest, on a rocky spike 1300 feet above the Mediterranean. The strategic skills of the architects and laborers who built such a place have to be revered.
The Present structure of the village goes back to the Middle Ages but Eze has been occupied since the Bronze Age. Even before the Greek occupation, legend tells of the Phoenicians building a temple here, and, after the collapse of the Roman Empire, who held the territory for quite a while, the area underwent several invasions before it eventually belonged to Monaco for a long period. It wasn’t until sometime in the 1860’s that the inhabitants of Eze voted for annexation to France…I have read two different dates about this so I’m just going to go for the middle ground here.
Today Eze is a favorite tourist site, maybe because it’s location offers easy access to the crowded coast, especially since the building of the Grand Corniches.
As you walk through the small archway that leads into the village, the streets become narrow and more intimate, sometimes twisting upwards in a series of steps, other times running smoothly beside carefully restored houses in small passageways, where you sometimes must shoulder your way through the tight crowds that arrive often each day in a never ending stream of buses…We were there early in the morning and had the village to ourselves for a little while, but not for long...Every house seems to have it’s own “smart” boutique or artists studio selling it’s own version of “typical” Eze souvenirs but don’t be discouraged, there are still a few spots where you can get away from the crowds and the village can be enjoyed to it’s utmost.
Le Jardin Exotique is such a spot...An exotic and lushly landscaped garden of exotic plants and cactus garden that was developed by Louis XIV which decorates the summit of the village and with those incredible views of the sea, from any vantage point, it truly is magnifique!
Then there are the two world famous hotels, Chateau Chevre D’Or and Chateau Eza, both with remarkable romantic ambiance, and featuring heavenly food in their restaurants, with those breathtaking vistas of the coast from their towering heights that match their prices..
We didn’t stay overnight but did treat ourselves to a meal in Chateau Eza where we learned of a past luxury afforded the quests of the bygone era, when they, the guests, had been welcomed at the base of the village with donkeys that were used to carry their baggage up the hill to their rooms..The donkeys are still there but only as an attraction now.. At Chateau Chevre D’Or restaurant we stopped for a dessert glace’ to use the opportunity to walk around the interior of the place, again astounded by the views and the prices!
Then we said goodbye to Eze, to drive straight up to the Grand Corniche continuing our journey to yet another fascinating village, La Turbie..This road climbs right into the steep mountainside with more superb panoramas, where you can see straight out to Corsica in the hazy distance...you can be sure I used up rolls and rolls of film that day!
This turned out to be another of our favorite villages, one featured in the movie Ronin, more off the beaten track then the more popular Eze and not as well known, La Turbie with it's monument ,"La Trophee des Alpes". Built at the highest point along the Grande Corniche, 1500 feet above sea level, by Roman Emperor Augustis, thousands of years ago to commemorate the final victory over the guerrilla Ligurians who had ambushed Roman convoys and even careless Roman Legions as they marched through those hills....Much of the monument still standing is a testament to the strength and fortitude that was the Roman Empire. How they built it, so high in the hills, is a mystery to all who are fortunate enough to spend time there.
The day we were there, we were the only Americans visiting and had a private tour with the friendliest tour guide I can ever remember. The museum on the premises has a scale model of the site in all its glory. Our guide was happy to tell us all it’s history and share the glory that was a small part of the Roman Empire… When she took us to the top, standing there, just the 3 of us, with the never ending coastline down in the distance, at one of the highest points along the Grand Corniche it was truly one of the spectacular and awesome sights I have been fortunate to see in this lifetime.
On a sadder note, the road that leads from La Turbee down to Monte Carlo is where Princess Grace had her tragic accident on that fateful day a few years ago, so, if you are driving, be aware that these roads can be as dangerous as the sights can be beautiful.
I found this quote in a book of mine, “The Literary guide to Provence”:
“These roads wind and wind higher and higher---one seems to drive through centuries too, the boy with the oxen who stands on the hillside with a green branch in his hand, the old woman gathering twigs among the olives....all these figures seem to belong to any time...And the tiny walled village with a great tree in the cobbled square...it’s all something one seems to have known for ever“
For me, it seems to say it all!
Happy and Safe Travels
Recommended:
Yes
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