FSA cranks means never having to say Triple
Written: Jun 07 '04 (Updated Jul 12 '04)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Great alternative to a triple, light weight, looks cool
Cons: Need to anticipate shifts because of wider spread and lower front derailleur. Hard to find.
The Bottom Line: Great alternative to a triple setup (lighter and cheaper), but you will need to adjust or replace your front derailleur
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| chrisspear's Full Review: FSA Carbon Pro Elite Compact Crankset |
There are two reasons for wanting the FSA Carbon Pro Elite Compact Crankset - either you have triple-phobia or you are a weight weenie. Since I don't know how much my Dura Ace crankset weighs, that puts me in the first category.
First - how well does it work? I'd give it a 4/5 because it work well, giving me an extra low gear (don't say granny!) without rebuilding my bike. It was not just a drop-in for my DA 53/39 as the front derailleur needs adjustment. The 16 tooth difference of the FSA 50/34 makes you think before shifting, as your legs will go spinning if you down shift too early before a hill. But the FSA does not creak (as some have reported), and looks amazing.
Why did I spend $325 to replace a perfectly good crankset? This summer I will be riding in the Rockies, riding passes over 10,000 feet every day, well above my sea level training grounds. My current 39/53 crank combined with 12-27 cogs was barely adequete last summer in the Alps where I often spent an hour grinding away at 70 rpm. But converting to a triple is over $800 (shifter, crankset, bottom bracket, derailleur) plus the added weight. And I hate the idea of using a triple on my road bike! As Tyler Hamilton demonstrated in the 2003 Tour, there is a way to keep spinning even when the roads get steep. (In spite a a few broken collar bones, I am no Tyler.)
It took some hunting on EBay and web sites before I finally tracked one down. Ironically, I was in Taiwan this spring, but didn't realize FSA was based there until I left for Singapore. The crank installed smoothly with the Octalink bottom bracket. It was a little annoying that I had to buy a crank extractor tool when Dura Ace cranks come with crank extractor bolts. Be sure to use the washers between the pedals and the cranks - otherwise you will get an annoying clunk.
I've done a few rides and tweaks. You will need to lower your front derailleur about 5mm so that the side plates just clear the 50 tooth chainring. I have a clamp-on style derailleur so it is more adjustable than a braze on might be. (Ignore my previous comments about using a triple front derailleur.)
On the flats I spend most of the time in the 50 chain ring, so pull out your Shimano manual and learn how to adjust the trim on the shifters. I have a Flite Deck computer to show the current gear. So when I shift up to 1-6, the next shift will be into the big chainring. Once again, this is a limitation of the Dura Ace components, not the FSA. The 16 tooth jump is probably more than DA was made for.
Also, the chain occasionally overshoots the big chainring when shifting. The chain then rips into the carbon fiber crank. So I need to put clear plastic packing tape over the vulnerable spot, and be more careful about shifting.
I am currently using 12-23 cogs but will switch over to 11-27 for Colorado. My low of 34-27 is equivalent to most triples, and the high of 50-11 is higher than 53-12. For riding on the flats at home, I might switch to a 11-21.
I would recommend this crank set to anyone needing the extra low gearing but does not want the expense and derision of a triple. Have a shop install this unless you are handy.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
chrisspear
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Reviews written: 12
Trusted by: 1 member
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