Fleur de Lys: three romantic hours in someone else’s world
Written: Jan 30 '01 (Updated Jan 30 '01)
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Pros: A sumptuously romantic dining room, excellent service
Cons: Inconsistent food, very expensive!
The Bottom Line: A perfect location for a Valentine's Day dinner. You won't find a restaurant in San Francisco that's more romantic.
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| tanster's Full Review: Fleur de Lys Restaurant |
Someone elses world. Thats exactly how my Beau described our evening at Fleur de Lys. Real life could not possibly be this romantic and sophisticated. But it was fun to dress up and pretend, if only for a little while.
The quick story
The most romantically decorated dining room in San Francisco.
Creative combinations of food, artistically presented.
Bring lots of moolah!
Cuisine
Fleur de Lys cuisine is characterized by small portions, innovative food combinations, and artistic presentations. This is not standard steak and potatoes fare. The menu offers la carte items as well as a five-course meal for $72 (plus an additional $32 for wine pairings). A six-course vegetarian fixed price menu is also offered for $60.
Starters
Our first complimentary appetizer was a traditional preparation of escargot (snails), butter, and garlic in adorable mini cast-iron skillets served to each person. The bubbly concoction was fragrant, chewy, and rich. A little too much chopped garlic, but otherwise a delectable prelude to what was to come.
My official appetizer choice was a Fleur de Lys signature dish Hudson Valley foie gras terrine ($22.50) with onion marmalade and Flower Pot brioche. The plate showcased a heavenly silky-smooth slice of marbled foie gras terrine, flanked by dainty piles of orange kosher salt and coarsely ground pepper, perfectly fanned apple slices, and a lovely tangle of caramelized onion. A veritable art palette for the taste buds, and such fun to put together each bite. Beau was completely taken by the brioche served inside three miniature flowerpots! (Our server told us we could buy them at Sur La Table.)
My Beau opted for the seared day boat scallops ($18.50) with red wine shallot sauce and marjoram, on lemon and black spaetzle. While it was a novel pairing of scallops with the mound of doughy little dumplings, the dish did not compare to the meaty succulence of the scallops Beau had at Fifth Floor (I doubt any scallop dish will).
Our second complimentary hors doeuvre was a roasted chestnut soup garnished with lobster and leek strudel and sturgeon caviar. Was this a soup topped with a meaty garnish? Or a flaky appetizer surrounded by a pool of sauce? Either way, the flavor was intense and decadent. This is so rich, my Beau whispered as he wiped the butter from his lips.
Entrees
While beautifully presented, our entrees were a little less spectacular than the appetizers. Beaus sea bass with ratatouille crust ($34.50) was delicious, but not unlike something you would find at a more casual bistro. Baby carrots, asparagus spears, and kalamata olives were cleverly arranged around the piece of fish like spokes on a wheel.
I opted for the special of the night, a filet mignon with foie gras sauce ($35). Prior to ordering, our server explained a black truffle dome could be added for an additional $18. Ordinarily, black truffle (a rare and aromatic fungus) is used very sparingly as a flavoring agent, usually in the form of a finely chopped scant sprinkle mixed in sauces. The thought of an actual slice of truffle intrigued me, and so I decided to spare the extra expense.
Hmmm. I guess Im just not worthy enough to appreciate such a big slice of truffle! It just didnt do anything for me. The filet mignon was wonderful on its own (I think its very difficult to mess up filet mignon). While speckles of truffle make a sauce exotically special, a slice of it just didnt produce the same kind of flavor sensation. (Especially for $18!)
Dessert
Fleur de Lys offers the most expensive desserts Ive ever seen on a menu they are all $11.75.
We tried the Hawaiian pineapple, ginger, and almond gateau on coconut crme Anglaise, served with Michigan dried cherry and Kirsch ice cream, and a freshly baked chocolate orange pie cooled off with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. As with the prior courses, these desserts offered novel (and rich!) flavor combinations, as well as beautiful presentations, right down to the perfect specimens of raspberries and blackberries used as garnish. Tasty, but worth $11.75 each? No; I would advise splitting a dessert if you order one at all.
Our meal ended with a three-tier overkill tray laden with Madeleine cookies, miniature fruit tarts, truffles (the chocolate kind), and sesame seed tuiles (thin, crisp cookies).
The only true dessert disappointment was the coffee. When we observed French presses being offered at surrounding tables, we were confident that we would be served outstanding coffee. Alas, the French presses were being used that night to strain and serve soup! Drats, we were so close.
Spirits
As you might expect, Fleur de Lys provides a massive 35-page wine list, selections mainly hailing from the Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhne, Alsace, and Burgundy areas of France. About twelve pages are devoted to California wine, and five pages list half-bottle selections. Prices range widely from $45 to $1,450 for full bottles, and the markup is quite high; a 1998 Chteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Grand Veneur goes for $70 (it retails for about $22). Wine by the glass is not listed on the menu, but available for the asking.
Dcor and atmosphere
Wow, this is the warmest, most beautiful room Ive ever seen, Beau said as we walked into the dining room. The main dining room is a stunner luxurious drapes billow from the center of the ceiling, cascading down to the far corners of the room. Intricately carved chandeliers tower over an enormous central flower display. The autumn orange-colored room was so elegantly French, and yet also somewhat exotic. Tables were generously arranged, with many 4-person tables used for couples instead. Soft playing music completed the romantic atmosphere.
Patrons were elegantly attired; I would advise gentlemen to wear jackets and slacks. No children were to be seen.
Service
From the minute you step inside the restaurant, youll notice an old-world romantic charm about the service. The host stand was manned by three distinguished-looking gentlemen in fine suits, who occasionally wandered around the dining room to make sure nothing was amiss. One even came by to ask, Has the dinner met your expectations? The servers were young, neatly groomed, and donned crisp pumpkin-hued shirts and ties. They were knowledgeable without being being too talkative. Pacing was even throughout most of the meal, although there was an uncommon delay right before the main course. All in all, the service was wonderful.
Cost
Our three-hour affair set us back $200. You can purchase the menu cover for $10, and also Kellers cookbook, The Cuisine of Hubert Keller.
All in all
We had a most romantic evening at Fleur de Lys. While the food wasnt consistently splendid, the luxurious surroundings were incomparable. As a Valentines Day treat, I can think of no place more sumptuous!
Will we return? Probably not. For the same price, we would prefer to go to Fifth Floor. But Fleur de Lys is worth an outing if you want to experience the ultimate in romantic extravagance.
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Fleur de Lys
777 Sutter Street
San Francisco, CA
415-348-1555
Valet parking available
Reservations: I would advise making reservations at least two weeks in advance, and much earlier than that for Valentines Day!
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Make reservations way in advance!
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
tanster
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: Palo Alto, CA
Reviews written: 111
Trusted by: 331 members
About Me:
Happily reviewing cool gadgets and SF Bay Area restaurants since 1999. Pass the gravy, please.
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