J'ai Faim
Written: Feb 10 '04
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Pros: Sunny (during the day) and cozy
Cons: No valet, only street parking
The Bottom Line: Good food at reasonable prices
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| ladygumby's Full Review: Fringale |
Fringale
570 Fourth Street
San Francisco, CA 94107
Telephone: (415) 543-0573
(Reservations recommended.)
According to my French counsel, fringale means "pang of hunger" or "urge to eat." If you're craving Basque-inspired cooking, then this should fit the bill. Though Gerald Hirogoyen used to be the chef here, that is no longer the case. I don’t recall the name of the new chef, but it was printed at the bottom of the menu. Located in San Francisco's Soma district, I was excited to finally dine at this establishment. Fringale's décor is simple, yet elegant. In the main dining area, tables are covered with white tableclothes and are rather close together. The sponged pale yellow walls with wainscotting of light wood, the plummy/brown ceiling accented with gray, recessed ceiling lighting, curved wooden bar, and contemporary art on wood (as opposed to canvas) adorning the walls add to the intimate feeling. Three large windows overlook Fourth Street, though the view isn't much. They are open Monday through Friday for lunch, and Monday through Saturday for dinner. Most main courses range from $9 to $20 at lunch, and from $9.50 to $20 at dinner.
Fringale was my final stop in this year's San Francisco 2004 Dine About Town promotion. Upon arriving for lunch, I was seated by a very French hostess and waited on by an equally French waiter. On this particular afternoon, the restaurant quickly filled up for lunch, yet the noise level remained unobtrusive. The crowd seemed to range in age from their late 30's to mid-50's. My choice of the three-course prix fixe lunch menu being offered for $19.95 consisted of an onion tart (one of my absolute faves!), a sea bream, and a flattened goat cheese soufflé with crème fraiche and strawberries. Other entrees being offered were the pork tenderloin or the seafood linguini. The onion tart arrived garnished with some manner of greens. The name escapes me, though they vaguely reminded me of clover! The tart itself had a delicate (rather than an overwhelmingly strong) onion flavor, encased in a light and flakey crust. The sea bream was fine, but not particularly memorable. To me, the taste kind of melded in with that of the salmon at Restaurant Lulu the week before. Fish always tastes about the same to me, unless it's at The House. Fringale's sea bream was moist, though, and accompanied by wonderful roasted potatoes. [I know, I know. You're now asking why I ordered the fish. That's because the seafood linguini contained calamari – another no-no for me – and the pork tenderloin sounded too heavy at the time.] There were many, many dessert choices to choose from – a lemon roll with whipped cream & pistachios, coffee and armagnac parfait, and handmade bittersweet chocolate truffles, just to name a few. I'm usually not a huge dessert fan, however, so wanted something a bit less sweet. That's why I chose the flattened goat cheese soufflé with crème fraiche and strawberries. Besides, I'm a fiend for cheese! The souffle was flawless; the texture was neither too soft nor too spongy, the sweetness was the right amount (for me), and the fresh strawberries complemented the dessert perfectly. I relished every bite! I washed the entire meal down with a delightful glass of J. Columbo Viognier ($7.50).
Service throughout was consistent. The waitstaff was cordial, attentive, and relatively prompt. Portions were average, and the food was good. Based on that overall first impression, I'm willing to go again, even without the promotion! The lemon roll with whipped cream and pistachios seems to be calling my name!
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Best Suited For: Business
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Epinions.com ID:
ladygumby
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Member: Tina
Location: San Francisco, California, USA
Reviews written: 49
Trusted by: 13 members
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