Basque in the glory
Written: Jan 12 '00 (Updated Jan 12 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: great food and good service
Cons: atmosphere a bit clinical
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| cake's Full Review: Fringale |
Fringale is the ultimate French bistro, except that it’s not, French that is. Chef Gerald Hirigoyen hails from the Basque country, a region spanning several Spanish provinces on the Atlantic coast and extending across the border into the French departments of Labourd (Biarritz!), Basse-Navarre and Soule. Apart from producing a language consisting almost entirely of consonants, the Basques are known as one of the most food-obsessed people in Europe. Exclusively male ‘cooking clubs’ are a Basque institution to this day.
The Food
Admittedly, you could go to Fringale and happily dine a la francaise. Fringale’s menu draws heavily on classic French fare – for instance, the Foie Gras Medallion au Naturel, the Duck Leg Confit with warm Green Lentils and the Crème Brulée. Hirigoyen’s superb technique and the quality of his ingredients gives these simple classics a refinement that’s so hard to achieve at home.
Hirigoyen’s food is truly exceptional when he adds some traditionally Basque touches. I lived in Spain for a while and became addicted to the sweet roasted piquillo peppers that were served stuffed with cheese. Hirigoyen puts a new twist on this dish by presenting Warm Goat Cheese and Pistachio stuffed Piquillo Peppers
with Zucchini Salad. Delicious! Similarly, he adds a Basque twist to a traditional beef carpaccio by adding ‘ardi gazna’, a Basque sheep’s milk cheese.
Fringale’s wine list also adds a few Basque touches. Ask the waiter to recommend something – I don’t think anyone needs to pretend to have a clue about Basque wines, but it’s fun to try them! We had a red whose name I completely forget but which was an excellent match for the meal.
Service
Fringale’s service staff are casual yet professional and unobtrusive. Mostly French, they have a wonderful knowledge of and enthusiasm for the food and wine. Our waiter was immediately able to tell us what chocolate the chef used in his desserts (which of course I promptly forgot – see wine comment above).
Fringale’s wine list contains a good selection of California wines and French imports. You should definitely take the chance to try the Basque wines that Fringale imports. Chef Gerald Hirigoyen particularly recommends the txakoki, a dry, slightly bubbly white wine.
Location and Atmosphere
Located in San Francisco’s new media inundated South of Market district, Fringale occupies a single small room. Atmosphere is really the only area Fringale could stand to improve. Check out the photo at http://bayarea.citysearch.com/E/V/SFOCA/0001/84/69/ if atmosphere is important. What you see there is pretty much it: grey carpet, well-spaced tables draped in white linen, birch wood chairs and bar. The lighting is also unfortunately stark – no nestling in dark corners here.
Star Dishes
The dish that brought my table to stunned silence was the warm Chocolate Gourmand. Somehow this managed to be a cross between a chocolate souffle and a chocolate pudding. I don’t know what chocolate they use (they did tell me, but I was kind of sloshed and I forget – see earlier comments), but this creation was to die for. And I am by no means a chocoholic.
Extras
Fringale runs a series of cooking classes up in Napa. Also, if you like Gerald Hirigoyen’s food, you can buy his and his wife Cameron’s cookbook, ‘The Basque Kitchen’. I’ve yet to cook out of it, but it contains several of the dishes from the restaurant as well as some interesting content on Basque food and wine.
Reservations: definitely. A week in advance for Friday and Saturday night.
Suitable for: Great place for business lunches (see earlier comments on wine and effects thereof). Good dinner venue if you're into the food and not too focussed on a romantic atmosphere (or if your date is into the food more than you). Not a brilliant place to linger over coffee - too bright and noisy. Hey, it's a bistro.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
cake
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Location: san francisco, ca
Reviews written: 7
Trusted by: 5 members
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