Fusion (n. "the process of melting or melting together" -- The Webster-Merriam Dictionary) became a concept increasing popularity in Post-Vietnam War America. The term, which had it origins earlier in Atomic Science, referred most often to mixing Western and Eastern cultures to form something else. Applications of Fusion were made, for instance, to Classical and Jazz music. More recently, the idea has become identified with the blending of cuisines from Asia with traditionally accepted French and Mediterranean dishes.

Perhaps Fusion appeals to Americans' historic love of The Melting Pot.

Whatever the case, FUZIO Universal Pasta, a chain of restaurants related to CHEVY'S in places like Washington, D.C., has opened over the years, here and there in the Bay Area: at 469 Castro, 2175 Chestnut Street, 1 Embarcadero Center, and out in Dublin -- to mention a few reviewed on this site. All follow the motto of the company, inviting us to "Savor the world one forkful at a time." When you come down to it, they mean Italian and Asian food, mixed together, eaten by the forkful.

The FUZIO I am most familiar with is at the Embarcadero Center, that great, almost Cyclopean series of four blocks, which stretch in San Francisco along the foot of California Street from Battery to the Bay. To a considerable extent, the Embarcadero Centers 1, 2, 3, and 4 serve tourists wandering down from Nob Hill or along the Waterfront. It features major shopping destinations, specialty shops, and restaurants with names like SPLENDIDO.

FUZIO fits right in at Embarcadero 1, oldest of the structures (featured in Francis Ford Coppola's THE CONVERSATION, 1974). I can remember coming to the venue over ten years ago, when it was bright and hip and full of well-turned out young people. It does not strike me so much as "a place to be" today. You approach the restaurant off Battery at California, going up escalators, past retail establishments, to the Third Level.

I go there occasionally, to save time, before or after seeing a film at the Embarcadero 1 Cinema. FUZIO is a narrow establishment across the concourse from the movie complex, just a little to the West. Winter nights can be cold (very cold, as they have been lately), and so it is convenient to pop into this glass and metal spot, festooned with neon beer signs, if only to escape that brutal wind off the bay.

A modest bar greets you, where you can have a glass of Fuzio's featured wine or a Martini, eat there also, if you wish. (Last time I was in, looked as if the bartender was acting as the manager.) A block of small tables, accommodating four people each in some comfort, stretches on your left to the end of the room.

FUZIO's menu welcomes you to its "global table," promising "authentic flavors and ingredients." It goes on to boast that it "speaks many languages -- from Thai to Italian. You are invited to look into the open kitchen, "where House-made pickled ginger" is blended [sometimes] with "tender slow-braised pork, freshly-blended habanero pesto, organic greens, Sicillian meatballs, [and] warm garlicky croutons . . . . "

The reality is not quite so marvelous, but it does offer an inexpensive meal, if you are touring the Embarcaderos, or have some particular reason for stopping there.

The menu changes monthly and seasonally.

One night recently, after seeing a movie, I sampled the Winter Menu Selections. I began with a respectable Ministrone Soup, with lots of White Beans, in a broth more Tomato than Beef ($4.95) and a Rigatoni Bolognese ($8.95), ground beef sauteed with Bacon, Tomato, Onions, tossed in Rigatoni, and sprinkled with Parmesan. I found plenty of sauce in those large grooved tubes of pasta. I drank a glass of their House Red ($3.50) with my meal.

Another night, I tried a monthly "Fork Meets Cork": Fuzio Firecracker Fusilli, a side salad and a glass of 1998 Deinhard German Riesling, all for $11.95. Enter FUZIO's patented pickled ginger in a spicy sauce, which went well with the spiraled Fusilli. The green salad came with a choice of a roasted garlic vinaigrette or a House Caesar dressing. (I chose the garlic.) And the off-dry German white wine went fine with everything. The pasta and salad alone would have come to about $13 on the regular menu.

A pretty good deal.

Other items on the Winter Menu were as follows:

UNIVERSAL APPETIZERS AND FOCACCIA
Thai Mussels and Clams: PEI mussels and Manilla Clams simmered in Thai Green Curry, with Coconut Milk and Fresh Cilantro -- $7.95.

Vietnamese Springrolls with Chicken: Rice Paper Rolls stuffed with Asian vegetables, grilled Chicken and Mint, served with sweet Chile sauce for dipping, and a Ginger-Carrot salad -- $5.95.

Crispy Calamari: Quick-fried Buttermilk-battered Calamari, a choice of spicy Lemon-Garlic Aioli or Marinara Sauce, on the side -- $6.95.

Toasted Homemade Bread (Focaccio): Toppings of Carmelized Onions, Feta Cheese, and Basil -- $3.50; or Roasted Tomatoes and Basil -- $3.95.

Fresh Mozzarella with Tomato Vinaigrette: Focaccio and slices of fresh Mozzarella on a bed of Arugula Greens, with a fresh Tomato Vinaigrette -- $4.95.

CHILLED PASTAS AND SALADS
Chopped Salad: Grilled Chicken Breast, Salami, Fuji Apples, and Blue Cheese, chopped with Hearts of Romaine Lettuce and Tomatoes, tossed with a Creamy Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing -- $8.50.

Pesto Penne Salad: Warm Penne Pasta, Pesto Vinaigrette, Tomatoes, Cucumber, Balsamic Vinegar, Onions, Croutons, and Arugula Lettuce sprinkled with Feta Cheese --$7.95.

Chinese Chicken Salad: Sliced Grilled Chicken Breast on Napa Cabbage, with Cilantro and Peanuts, tossed in Hoisin Vinaigrette, served over crunchy Rice Noodles, with Fuzio Candied Ginger -- $8.50.

Caesar Salad with Chicken: Grilled Chicken Breast on Baby Greens, tossed in a fresh Caesar Dressing with Parmesan and Croutons -- $8.50.

Mediterranean Mixed Green Salad: Mixed Baby Greens tossed with Kalamata Olives, Feta Cheese, House-made Croutons, and Sundried Tomatoes in a Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette -- $7.95.

GRILLED PANINI (Sandwiches made with Focacco, served with organic greens. Until 4p.m.)
Albacore Tuna Melt: Albacore Tuna with Cucumbers, Celery and Red Onion, topped with melted Swiss Cheese and Cheddar -- $7.95.

Grilled Zucchini and Melted Goat Cheese: Zucchini, roasted Bell Peppers and carmelized Onions, with Goat Cheese -- $6.50.

Grilled Chicken and Roasted Peppers: Grilled Chicken Breast, roasted Peppers, Provolone and Balsamic Onions, with Herb Aioli -- $7.95.

UNIVERSAL PASTA
Spicy Chicken Sausage Penne: Pasta tubes and spicy Chicken Sausage in a light Marinara Sauce, Roasted Bell Peppers and Parmesan -- $8.95.

Vegetable Pad Thai Noodles: Thin Rice Noodles with crispy Tofu, Napa Cabbage, Bean Sprouts, Egg and Chopped Peanuts, tossed in a sweet-spicy sauce -- $6.95. Grilled Chicken added for $2.50 more.

Rigatoni Alfuzio: Wide tubes of pasta in a house-made Alfredo Sauce, with Fresh Tomatoes and Hickory-Smoked Bacon -- $7.50.

Angel Hair and Fresh Tomatoes: Roma Tomatoes, Garlic, and Olive Oil tossed with Angel Hair Pasta, Basil and Romano Cheese -- $6.95.

Linguini and Meatballs: Sicillian Jumbo-sized Meatballs with Linguini in Marinara Sauce --$8.50.

Udon Bowl with Fresh Vegetables: Shanghai Noodles in a traditional Dashi Broth, with Asian Vegetables, Tofu, Bean Sprouts, and Cilantro -- $6.95. Grilled Chicken added for $2.50.

Carmelized Mushroom Linguine: Pasta tossed with Portobello Mushrooms, Button Mushrooms, fresh Arugula and Basil -- $7.95.

Shanghai Curry Chicken: Shanghai Noodles and Grilled Chicken Breast in a Lemon Grass and Ginger Sauce, with Fresh Vegetables and Cilantro -- $8.50.

Crispy Calamari Linguine: Pasta tossed with Toasted Garlic, Lemon and Butter, topped with crisp Calamari -- $8.50.

AN ADDITIONAL WINTER SPECIAL: Sliced Grilled Chicken Breast and "Barbwire" Gemelli Pasta, tossed in Chipotle Cream Sauce, infused with Fresh-cut Corn, Roasted Red Pepper and mild Anaheim Chilies, topped with Cilantro -- $8.95.

Besides the Wine of the Month, and the House Wines ($3-5 a glass), FUZIO concentrates on Beer: Amstel Light, Sierra Nevada, Rolling Rock, Anchor Steam, Tsing Tao at $3.50 a bottle. Twenty-seven ounce bottles of Asahi are available for $4.95.

There is Tea, of course, in a light tropical flavor, for $1.89 (free re-fills). Fresh-squeezed Lemonade for $2.25; Mango, Strawberry and Raspberry flavored, $2.50. And FUZIO offers a variety of bottle waters and sodas from $1.89 to $2.95.

I judge the help to be competent but quite impersonal.

If you like Chicken or Italian dishes with Asian touches for very reasonable prices in San Francisco, FUZIO may be just the place for you.

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Recommended: Yes

Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations The regular fare of the place is obviously Chicken. Be sure to try the Monthly Special. Remember that the tea has free re-fills.
Best Suited For: Friends