Impeccable Service and Exquisite Food: What More Can You Ask For?
Written: May 03 '09
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Pros: * Impeccable service
* Exquisite Food
Cons: * Some courses more exquisite than others
The Bottom Line: This is an ideal place for a special occasion. The food and service combine to present an unforgettably lovely evening.
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A little over three years ago, a few weeks before I was due to give birth to our first daughter, my husband and I decided to splurge on our "last hurrah" dinner at Gary Danko in San Francisco. We knew there would be few chances to get away and many more practical ways to spend our hard-earned money once she arrived. It was exquisite, but since we couldn't secure a reservation at the last minute, we ate at the bar (which was surprisingly comfortable despite being 8.5 months pregnant!) which meant I was unable to take notes and write a review here.
Fast forward three years. I'm about 5 weeks from giving birth to our second daughter and we headed back to Gary Danko for the second time earlier tonight. It's now a tradition--though I hope to be back again without having an impending childbirth on the horizon.
About the Restaurant
From my limited knowledge of the best gourmet restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area, I have gleaned that Gary Danko is not one of the flashy superstars. His restaurant is known for its impeccable service and well-executed food, but doesn't grab headlines. I hear more about the "biodynamic vegetables" that David Finch serves at Manresa or the exclusivity of the 16 table restaurant, French Laundry.
Rather than attract the patrons looking for the hottest new culinary trends, Gary Danko seems to have an established crowd of fine food lovers. He knows what we love and he serves it to us. After looking around the restaurant, I think this is confirmed as the average age of the diners was probably over 50. The majority are older patrons with a handful of us in our 30s skewing the age downward.
Valet parking is available in front for $11, but given its proximity to Ghiradelli Square, we have found metered street parking on both visits ($1 per 24 minutes).
The space itself is an interesting mix of dark intimate lighting, mirrored surfaces, and warm wood columns. As you first enter, it seems exceptionally dark--reminiscent of a Las Vegas casino where all sense of time is lost. We had a 6 pm reservation, so it was early enough that every time the front door open, a bright burst of sunlight would flash int the room.
In between courses, I had time to gaze around the room and notice various details. There are some beautiful dramatic floral arrangements at the bar and in the corners of the main dining room, while each table was set with a silver mint julep cup with red rose buds and candles. It's more than just an elegant space--it's dramatic and provides a nice backdrop to the food. Yet lighting is designed so that it's still enough to see your dining companion, read the menu, and see the vibrant colors of your food.
Over the course of the 2+ hour meal, I had a chance to see both of the unisex restrooms. The one up the steps is much smaller and not as lavish as the one immediately to the right of the cheese refrigerator. This is where the attention to detail really catches your eye. There were fresh flowers, a lighted magnifying mirror, a choice of hand towels or paper towels, and even a bubbling fountain underneath each bathroom's sink. Plus, the Gary Danko logo sticker was still on the extra roll of toilet paper when I entered shortly after arrival!
About the Food
Despite the relative lack of "newsworthiness," Gary Danko shines far more than one would expect for a ten year old restaurant that's been around the block.
On our first visit years ago, we opted to select 5 items from the menu as we didn't find the tasting menu tempting. We did the same thing again tonight because we wanted more variety than what was offered in the tasting menu.
Diners can choose 3, 4, or 5 courses ($66, $83 or $98 per person, respectively) or the tasting menu (which features 5 set courses and is $98, the same price as the 5 course option).
I admire this unique structure, as it enables diners great flexibility. For those who love savory meat dishes like my husband, one can choose 5 meat/game/fish courses (with portions sized appropriately). I chose to indulge in an appetizer, 1 seafood course, 1 meat course, and 2 desserts.
The amuse bouche tonight was a thin slice of beef tenderloin rolled atop some micro greens, pickled onion, and a few dots of goat cheese. Delicious! The bread (which was individually served and replenished whenever the bread plate was empty) was a hearty sourdough with a round tin of slightly chilled butter (which was very easy to spread!).
Since I'm 8 months' pregnant and my husband didn't want to order a bottle of wine alone, he had cocktails throughout dinner. There is an extensive wine list and I saw many couples enjoying champagne so I definitely hope to return to try some of the alcoholic options.
Tonight, my husband ordered Roast Maine Lobster with Potato Purée, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Edamame Beans and Tarragon; Pancetta Wrapped Frog Legs with Garlic Purée, Potato, Lentils and Parsley; Lemon Pepper Duck Breast with Duck Hash, Asparagus Purée and Poached Rhubarb; Quail Stuffed with Foie Gras, Leeks and Quinoa, Farro, Maitake Mushrooms, Zucchini and Roasted Red Peppers; and Seared Filet of Beef with Braised Celery, Potatoes, Bacon, Leeks and Bordelaise Crust.
Since we planned to share tastes, I ordered 5 completely different dishes. I had the Risotto with Lobster, Rock Shrimp, Asparagus, Morel Mushrooms and Stinging Nettles; Mushroom Dusted Sea Scallops with English Pea Purée, Shimeji Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon; Herb Crusted Loin of Lamb with Israeli Couscous, English Peas, Spring Onions, Artichokes and Mint; A Selection of Farmhouse and Artisanal Cheeses Presented Tableside; and Baked Chocolate Soufflé with Two Sauces (creme l'anglaise and Belgian chocolate).
Overall, I think we both agree it was a great meal with some highs and some lows. Our favorites were the frog's legs (which we had never tried before and joked were like bacon wrapped chicken drummettes, but much more refined!); the duck (bursting with flavor and absolutely tender and moist); the beef (I loved the Bordelaise crust); sea scallops (large, plump and perfectly prepared); and the cheese plate.
I was also pleasantly surprised that some of the accompanying sides outshone the main stars. For instance, I loved the Israeli couscous, English peas, and spring onions underneath the lamb loin and my husband and I both thought the duck hash was superior to the duck breast.
The lows included the quail (where was the foie gras?), risotto (good, but primarily rice with very little seafood), and the souffle (which looked great but tasted like a spongy half-cooked pudding/cake). Even though we were disappointed by these courses, it was not enough to discourage us from returning. I think it's just that the other courses surpassed expectations so these paled in comparison.
I realize the restaurant can't really take credit for cheese produced elsewhere, but the experience was a thrill for a cheese-lover like me. The waiter wheeled over a small cart, as the cheese is presented table-side. There were over a dozen options (3 each of the sheep's milk and goat's milk cheeses). I selected the Leonora goat cheese, Abbaye de Belloc sheep's milk cheese (my favorite!), Beecher's cheddar, and a triple creme whose name escapes me. The cheeses were paired with red grapes and thin slices of a rustic pecan bread.
After the warm chocolate souffle, we were presented a "celebratory" plate (with Congratulations written in chocolate on the rim) of various tiny petits fours. I enjoyed the lemon tart and the nut one, while my husband liked the chocolate ones. They even slipped a tall thin candle into the plate. I saw at least 5 other tables given such celebratory plates with candles.
While it's true Gary Danko might focus on more traditional fare, I have to say that I find nothing wrong with that at all. My husband and I splurged on the tasting dinner plus wine pairings at Manresa for my birthday last September and were both incredibly disappointed. We both acknowledge that the food was well prepared and innovative, but we aren't the kind of diners who enjoy entrees primarily consisting of vegetables (whether biodynamic or not) or fancy techniques like foam (my husband thought it looked like spit!). Frankly, we'll take Gary Danko's lobster, sea scallops, and duck over David Kinch's root vegetable "risotto" without rice, snails, and black cod any day.
About the Service
Gary Danko offers a dining experience. Ordering this food to-go would deprive patrons of a key aspect of this experience. While staff was incredibly responsive (i.e., individually serving multiple pieces of bread so our bread plates were never empty and refilling my water glass more than a dozen times), I never felt like they were hovering obtrusively. I also felt a sense of warmth and professionalism. There was a never a snotty attitude or an overly familiar tone, either. It was the perfect balance of attentive personal service without intruding on your personal space or making you feel like you were at your neighborhood diner.
Final Thoughts
Few people would call a $250+ meal a great value, especially in this economy. However, I think compared to its peers, Gary Danko is an underrated value. I would not hesitate to return the next time we decide to splurge on an outrageously expensive meal because I know my expectations for an exceptional meal will be met.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Frog's legs, duck, and sea scallops were among our favorites
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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