There are certain beers that over the years I have grown considerably comfortable with, so much so that buying them when I see them in my beer cooler of choice is automatic, as long as my budget permits.

I have long been a fan of Pale Ales and India Pale Ales over any other offerings. As such, there are a number of automatics in my mental list, the most obvious one being Geary's Pale Ale from D.L. Geary Brewing of Portland, Maine. Brewed since 1986, it is not  only a quintessential American Pale Ale, but also one that is keenly aware of its British cousins by design. Geary spent some time working and researching in England and Scotland prior to launching his own brewery and these lessons have been notably mastered with his Pale Ale, the flagship brew of his brewery.

As mentioned in an earlier review, "Geary's was one of my first forays into craft brewing and over the years I've returned to them time and again when I find them available. No matter what the other breweries might experiment with and foist on an unsuspecting public, Geary's keeps doing it right in my opinion. They just make good beer."

Style Notes
Michael Jackson writes of Geary's Pale Ale in his Great Beer Guide: 500 Classic Brews (2000, Dorling Kindersley, page 184) describing it as "...an East Coast classic ... big, assertive flavors in a muscular balance."  It's hard to argue with him on that score, though I find Geary's a far more subtle version of the Pale Ale then some of its West Coast competition.

Geary's Pale Ale has a 4.5 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) rating and is brewed using two row English malts (pale, crystal, and chocolate); and four hop varietals (Cascade, Mt. Hood, Tettnang, and Fuggle).  [I paid $8.49 for a six-pack in Connecticut over Thanksgiving.]

Geary's is bit under the 5-percent  ABV margin mentioned in The Good Beer Book (see pages 37-38)  but that is a minor quibble and probably says more about Geary's use of subtlety than anything else. This is an extremely well done Pale Ale, highly recommended.

Tasting Notes
Geary's Pale Ale pours out to a beautiful copper color with a nice head of beer lace. There is a pleasant aroma, a bit of a grassy note with a floral accent. The taste is immediately pleasing, a long smooth kiss of malts and then a nicely drawn-out back of the throat dryness. There is a fine mix of sweet and dry with a touch of citrus grapefruit and caramel flavors within the mouthfeel and finish. Subtle yet intense, with a sweet and smooth contrast, it is instantly likeable and impressive.

A long lingering and quaffable Pale Ale, it's impossible to have just one; highly session worthy over conversation and a lobster roll of course. This is a fine Pale Ale for the requisite Fish and Chips, or a chutney and cheddar sandwich. I enjoyed mine with a Munster cheeseburger topped with fried onions. It's a perfect accompaniment to just about anything.

Geary's Pale Ale announces itself with subtlety and a pronounced smoothness but finishes with a dry lingering kiss of hops that begs the question: why is it impossible to find in the Northeast?

Over the years, I have drunk my share of the Geary products, but this remains the classic one to look for, find, and savor.

Overall, Geary's Pale Ale is one of the best in its class, an American classic that matches its British cousins pull after pull; a subtle and  well done offering. It is available year-round and well worth seeking out anytime. (five stars)

Sources
www.gearybrewing.com, www.drinkmainebeer.com

Harper, Timothy, and Garret Oliver. The Good Beer Book, New York: Berkley Books, 1997
Jackson, Michael. Great Beer Guide: 500 Classic Brews,  New York: Dorling Kindersley, 2000

Recommended: Yes