Italian Combo? Homemade Ravioli ? Deep-fried Artichoke Hearts? Get It At Genova's!
Written: Mar 02 '08 (Updated Mar 02 '08)
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Pros: Fantastic array of Italian meats, cheeses, reasonable prices
Cons: Obscenely long waits during prime meal hours
The Bottom Line: This is a classic Italian deli that you don't see much out in California, at least not in the East Bay area.
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Got a craving for Italian food but want something more delicately flavored than the heavy-handed Italian-American restaurant chains? Then you have got to find an Italian deli. Fortunately, we are within driving distance of Genova Delicatessen in Oakland, California, which I've enjoyed for more than 10 years now (since I first moved to Berkeley for law school).
History
First established in 1926, this is a family-owned institution that has a variety of options that highlight some of the best aspects of Italian food. You've got your prepared hot items (like pastas), side salads, Italian deli sandwiches made-to-order, and dry goods imported from Italy or made in the Italian style by local vendors.
The current location of Genova's is relatively new (in the last decade or so) as they relocated to fancier digs in a strip mall anchored by a Walgreen's near the 24 freeway on-ramp off 52nd St. Frankly, it's not the best neighborhood and is just a block where California State Senator Don Perata was carjacked. I almost always go to Genova's for lunch or early dinner.
About the Deli
Before you even enter, you will have to fight to find parking. It's a tiny lot despite how popular Genova's is. I feel sorry for the other businesses!
There are a few tables outside Genova's, which is where we usually eat unless we're just buying to take home to eat or the weather is really bad. I've only eaten inside once, when I went with some friends for an after-dinner snack.
As you stroll in, you see several aisles/displays of dry goods, a long deli counter toward the back, a wall of refrigerated/freezer sections on your right, a counter area with hot prepared food to the left of the deli counter, and then a coffee bar/seating area on the far left of the store.
Most folks who drop by come in for the made-to-order sandwiches, which almost always requires a wait. While waiting, this is your time to explore. You can read the menus above the deli counter and then check out the meats and cheeses, as well as the deli salads on the right of the deli counter. I've enjoyed their pasta salad and potato salad, though folks rave about their marinated mushrooms (which I haven't tried yet). There are also often trays of deep-fried artichoke heart "balls" on the top of the deli counter.
You might also wander up each aisle and linger over the imported Italian goods and local Italian-inspired items like olive oil, dry pasta, arborio rice, crackers, breads, wine, and sauces.
You can also scan the frozen food section in the freezer case on the far right wall. I picked up some pesto sauce and meat ravioli on my last visit that I have yet to enjoy! To the left of the freezer section is a large refrigerated section of classic glass bottles of soda. Stewart's orange cream soda is one of our favorites!
Finally, you check out the hot prepared foods section on the left. The selection seems to vary the few times I've wandered over there, but I tend to see ravioli, tortellini, lasagna, and sometimes giant meatballs, which are in metal serving trays under a heat lamp. It doesn't look as appetizing to me so I've never ordered that. Frankly, we always skip the hot foods, as you can get those from almost any Italian restaurant. If you make the trek out to Genova's, you HAVE to order a sandwich!
The Sandwich Experience
If you want a sandwich made-to-order, you pick a number from one of those old-fashioned red ticket dispensers right by the door.
During peak lunch times (I'd say 11 am to 2 pm), the line is almost always out the door (30 min - 1 hour even with 6-8 staffers making sandwiches), but at 3 pm or so you might wait only 10 minutes if you're lucky.
You can pick your own bread from one of the bins or just let someone from behind the counter grab from their stash. Once your number is called, you choose your bread (dutch crunch and sourdough are my favorites, though I know they also have sweet rolls and wheat). They have dozens of meats in the deli case, ranging from the basics like turkey and roast beef, to the Italian deli meats that distinguish Genova's from other sandwich shops.
I've tried a few of the other sandwiches, but my favorite is always the Italian Combo with provolone cheese. I used to always get Dutch Crunch but sometimes I like it on the plain roll. I always get everything on my sandwiches: chopped lettuce, oil and balsamic vinegar, tomatoes, pickles, pepperoncini, onions, mustard, mayo, and cheese (they have at least 4-5 different kinds, I believe).
I haven't been by Genova's for more than a few months, and they don't have a website, but I recall prices range from $5.25 or so (for the vegetarian sandwiches or the simple cheese sandwich) to around $8 or so for the Italian meat sandwiches. With side salads and sodas, we normally ring up at around $25 or so.
FYI, a couple of my girlfriends told me the older Italian guys behind the counter flirt like crazy and would always throw in free deep-fried artichoke hearts or other things for them. It's never happened to me, but I think I must give off "hurry and make me a sandwich as I'm starving after waiting 30+ minutes" vibes. :) The last time I went in a few months ago, the staff behind the counter was actually full of women (!) and most of the staff were Latino, rather than Italian. Not sure why there has been such a dramatic staff turnover, but maybe the Italian guys are retiring?
Final Thoughts
Whenever we head up to Berkeley for a football/basketball game, we almost always stop in to grab a sandwich from Genova's. It's a great find and I just wish they had a location closer to my home. I'd definitely order sandwiches from here once/twice a month!
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Go early or go late, but avoid the 11 am - 2 pm crunch! Sandwiches are made-to-order and delicious
Best Suited For: Kids and Families
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