Pilsner Shootout Part 3: Grolsch Shows Off the Dutch Interpretation
Written: Feb 13 '04
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Hoppy, but with a lighter, drier body than Urquell
Cons: Whoops! Looks like my glass runneth dry!
The Bottom Line: Grolsch is a good, solid, workaday pale pilsner. It's drier than some of my favorite pilsners, but still a good interpretation of the style.
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| mrkstvns's Full Review: Grolsch Premium Lager Holland 16oz |
I must be some kind of heretic for doing it, but I actually bought a case of Grolsch in 12 ounce bottles -- not in the infamous ceramic swing-tops (though I have had on again, off again love affairs with them for homebrewing purposes). Bottles aside, Grolsch is an excellent example of how pilsners taste in the Netherlands, and Grolsch is a tradition-minded brewery where change sometimes comes slowly, and I like that in a brewery.
So anyway, I'm sampling the Grolsch alongside several other pilsners, side-by-side so that I can spotlight the similarities and differences in a way that I never could if I were just drinking one beer at a time. Besides, it's lots of fun and I can end the evening with a nice buzz but get away with telling folks that it was all in the lofty pursuit of knowledge...man, I love a good scam!
About Pilsners...
Generally, crisp, hoppy, cleanly brewed pale lagers. Pilsners are not heavy beers -- they're usually brewed to roughly normal gravity (which is defined as 12 degrees Plato, more or less) with normal alcohol levels. That's basically what we're looking for, and if you're looking for more details on what makes a "perfect" pilsner, you can read on in my deeper discussion of the stylistic fine points.
About Grolsch....
Grolsche Bierbrouwerij of Groenlo Holland traces its roots back to 1615, though this flagship beer is decidedly younger, dating to the late 19th century -- around the time the deGroen family (and yes, this is the family of Theo deGroen, owner of Baltimore Brewing Company -- one of the best lager craft breweries in the United States) assumed control of what was then a small, local brewery. Under the deGroens, Grolsch grew by leaps and bounds, and today exports to some 50 countries. Although the brewery makes a range of beers in different styles (including a particularly noteworthy brew called Grolsch Het Kanon, that's a dopplebock weighing in with a whopping 11.6 percent alcohol).
Their flagship pilsner beer (which is what I'm reviewing here) is labeled "Grolsch Premium Lager" in most parts of the world, though on its home turf, it's bottled as "Grolsch Premium Pilsner". Heineken may outsell Grolsch in pretty much every major market, but Grolsch has still managed to forge a unique image for itself and a certain cachet through creative packaging -- their 450ml ceramic swing top bottles have become genuine classics.
By the numbers, Grolsch is spot on target for the style. It's brewed to 12 degrees Plato with 5.0 percent alcohol by volume, it is hopped with Hallertau and Saaz to a level of 27 IBU.
But enough generalities, let's commence to drinkin'!
A Tall Pilsner Glass of Grolsch....
Pilsner glass in hand? Check. Ooops, better make that "Czech" -- looks like I'm actually using one with an Urquell logo, but what the heck, I don't have any real Grolsch glasses on hand and my Heineken glasses are the wrong shape, IMHO. Never mind. Bottles out, openers out, and pssssttttttt!
Appearance:
A bright and beautiful beer with a light golden color (looks between 2 and 3 SRM to me), brilliant clarity, and a huge crown of thick foam that leaves copious rings of chunky Belgian lace down the glass.
Aroma:
Peppery hop aroma with a spritzy citric edge to it.
Flavor:
Some initial malt sweetness that quickly gives way to a grassy and peppery hop flavor, and a long lingering peppery hop aftertaste. The beer is decidedly dry on the palate, and in a side-by-side comparison with Urquell, there's no question that the Grolsch has the lighter body and the drier mouthfeel, with Urquell showing off its softer malt emphasis.
Grolsch does not show a lot of malt emphasis -- it's an obviously well-attenuated beer whose balance is toward the dry and bitter. It's quite refreshing with a clean hop character that permeates the whole experience.
Overall Impression:
Grolsch is a refreshing and pleasant pilsner beer -- it's a good example of the style, and its typical of pilsners from the Netherlands and parts of Germany. If you like Heineken, you'll like Grolsch. If you like Bitburger, you'll like Grolsch. If you like the firmer malt character of Urquell, or American revival pilsners, like Prima Pils or deGroen's Pils, you might want to stick to the beers you're drinking, because Grolsch will definitely hit you as drier and earthier.
Overall though, a good, solid continental pilsner beer.
Further Reading...
Here's a few other pilsner reviews that might slake your thirst...
* What a "PERFECT" Pilsner Should Be...
* Prima Pils
* Pilsner Urquell
* Warsteiner
* Balashi Pilsner
* DeGroen's Pils
* Bohemia
Recommended:
Yes
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