Another fake Hollywood Blonde revealed
Written: Aug 21 '01 (Updated Aug 23 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Enjoyable, summerbrew, wonderful balance of malt and hop
Cons: Not a true Kölsch, drifts towards amber
The Bottom Line: Hollywood Blonde may not be the definitive version of a Kölsch, but certainly borrows much from the style as well as the fuller character of an amber. Well worth trying.
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| andaryl's Full Review: Hollywood Blond |
Fresh off the back of my recent review of Goose Island Summertime Kölsch Beer, I decided that with the hot weather and a night off work, now would be as good a time as any to check out the other Kölsch in my fridge. This Kölsch, as all Kölsch beers are in the USA, is referred to as based on the Kölsch style.
The Company
Hollywood Blonde is currently the only product of The Great Beer Company. As you would guess, with the obscurity of the style, this is a beer that is brewed for the company under contract.
The Bottle
The first thing to strike any warm blooded male about this beer is the Barbie-like figure on the label. She’s actually standing in front of the Hollywood Hills, with (what I think is) a Bentley right behind her. The whole image actually makes me think of Kim Basinger’s character in LA Confidential.
The Style
I will explain briefly that Kölsch is an ale that combines the refreshing crisp drinkability of a pilsner with the subtle fruity character produced by the ale yeast. It is top fermented and then lagered (cold-aged). It is protected under appellation in Germany, and may only be brewed near Cologne (Köln in German). For a better explanation of this style be sure to check out my review of Goose Island’s version (link at the end of this review).
I did check out the website before drinking the beer and got a couple of contradictory statements. The first thing you’ll see on the company’s home page is a quote from The Beer Celebrator that says, “the closest thing to an authentic Kölsch I have found in the United States." However I read elsewhere on the site that: “The Great Beer Company's goal in producing Hollywood Blonde was not to duplicate a Kölsch exactly, but rather to draw on some of its unique characteristics to produce a distinctive beer that would be enjoyable to the American beer drinker … To aid consumers in understanding the concept behind Hollywood Blonde, it is called Kölsch-style ale. This is clearly distinct from an authentic Kölsch beer which is labeled simply "Kölsch" and was meant to distinguish between the two.”
Ingredients
The beer uses three kinds of hops, namely Perle, Tettnanger and Saaz, which are added earlier than is usually the case during the brewing process. The company also explains its use of malts as American two-row for light body, Canadian Carapils for sweetness and Vienna for complexity. There’s also a wheat malt which helps develop a good foam. The yeast is authentic Kölsch yeast, obtained from Cologne.
Tasting Notes
As most superficial men would do, my first judgment of this Hollywood Blonde is based on looks, and my first impressions are that this is not a true blonde (Kölsch), actually looking a little more like a redhead (amber, from the Vienna malt). Actually I can’t keep these analogies going so let me just say that it’s something of a golden amber color, certainly fuller in color than previous Kölsch interpretations I’ve tried. The clarity is very good, although a slight haziness does result from the wheat; the foam is firm, while the carbonation is relatively light.
So where do the Kölsch similarities come in? Well it certainly comes in part from the aroma, although this again is much fuller and more distinctive than the style would define. It’s clear from the nose that this beer is sweeter than usual, hinting at sugary, with very light fruitiness, and a faint perfume aroma (that’s not a deliberate analogy to blondes or Cologne)
It’s light bodied upon tasting, smooth in texture, while it does have a nice crispness and light carbonation that raise some interest throughout.
Upon tasting, the sugary aroma reconfirms itself on the first sip, while there’s a much more appealing red apple fruitiness. Balanced into the sweetness, there’s also an elegant dryness that runs right through the palate, which works very well, turning to a tangy bitterness half way through. This does result in a pleasantly bitter aftertaste that lingers around the back half of the palate.
Verdict
The sugary flavor seems a little manufactured, but otherwise this is a very well balanced ale. It’s certainly fuller in flavor than other Kölsch beers I’ve tried (all of which were US versions), and very enjoyable, even if they did cheat on the formula a little. At the same time, it does manage to hold the refreshing crispness that makes Kölsch an essential summertime brew.
Food & Recommendations
This is essentially a summertime ale, and as a drinker who likes something a little fuller and darker, it would be unusual that I would drink this out of season. It worked perfectly as an early evening outdoor beer, when the weather is still around 100 degrees out here. It’s certainly something of interest that I would recommend to most, and really would make a nice little change for those who like nothing but their low-hopped, all malt lagers.
As for food, make it something light but also something sweet. Try it with fruit, or salads with fruit in a light dressing.
Availability
An article in the LA Times revealed that the beer is available in bottles at 600 Southland locations, including Hughes supermarkets and Bristol Farms markets. It is served on draft at Goat Hill Tavern in Costa Mesa, Barney's Beanery in Los Angeles, the Yardhouse in Long Beach and Ocean Avenue Seafood in Santa Monica.
The company suggests:
www.homebeer.com
12-pack $14.95, plus shipping
24-pack $26.95, plus shipping
Awards
Best of Show 1999 California State Fair, Commercial Craft Brewing Competition
Best of Show 1999 Las Vegas International Beer Festival
First Place (Mixed Styles), 1999 California State Fair
Silver Medal (Domestic Specialty), BrewFest '98 at Universal Studios
Other Kölsch Beer Reviews
Goose Island Summertime Kölsch (and more information about the style)
http://daryl.epinions.com/content_35519499908
Flying Dog Tire Biter Ale
http://daryl.epinions.com/content_24941072004
Recommended:
Yes
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andaryl
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