In the Heart of Lyon
Written: Oct 08 '09 (Updated Oct 09 '09)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Quiet and central location. Courteous staff. Some nice architectural and historical features.
Cons: Somewhat dated physical plant struggling, successfully, to maintain its charm.
The Bottom Line: Overall, a hotel of some character and historical significance. Friendly staff and ideal location.
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| ulysses4's Full Review: Hotel Carlton, Lyon FR |
Less than a quarter of the size of Paris, Lyon has plenty to offer tourists, business folks and especially anyone who is interested in good food. The old saw is that three rivers run through town: The Rhone, the Saone and the Beaujolais. The Carlton is an old hotel with plenty of character, centrally located, and offering good amenities at the price. Don't expect pure luxury, but if you savor some solid links with the past and reflections on a long list of celebrities and personages who have stayed there in years gone by, you might find this hotel to your liking. The public rooms are considerably more head turning than the guest rooms (at least the standard ones), but a drink or two in the over the top baroque bar may put you in a good mood. The ride up in a gem of a glass cage elevator to your living quarters is great fun and a visceral throwback to another era.
The hotel is on a quiet side street just north of Bellecour and only two blocks in from the Rhone River. the City Centre location is ideal for access to the principal shops and just a short distance away from the historical old town across the Saone. The Rhone is the wider and more navigated river, with barge traffic and the occasional passenger vessel. A substantial traffic artery separates pedestrians from the river front, and while it is possible to cross it, the noise, car pollution and traffic take away from enjoyment of the river front. The Saone side is quieter, has a delightful farmers market, and offers quiet cafes and lovely views of the hilly old town. The view is reminiscent of Buda from Pest. Bellecour, Lyon's most famous public square is a little disappointing. Today, it is littered with some transient buildings, is used for expositions, rollerblading, cutting across town, and overall is a little stark. Still, to find a large empty space in a densely packed city, albeit somewhat neutral, does open the city to the sky and relieves pressure on densely packed boulevards and narrow streets. South of the Bellecour, the neighborhoods are more modest heading down towards the Perrache railroad station, and any hotels in that area tend to be more basic.
Now under the Mercure (Accor) brand, the chain hasn't erased the historical heritage and charm of the hotel. They could do more in upgrading the amenities without losing that patina. It was surprising that they don't have a business center or even a few PCs hooked up to the internet. They do have wi-fi access, throughout, at a connection fee. At 83 rooms, and four suites. this is a mid-sized hotel by European standards. There are no parking facilities on the premises, but public parking nearby is an option. Cabs are readily accessible in the neighborhood, and the hotel can always call for one.
Check in is efficient and courteous and front desk personnel are fluent in at least 4 or 5 languages. Frescoed ceilings, elaborate chandeliers, stained glass windows, this is not your typical chain hotel. The handsome breakfast room on the first floor is quiet pleasant and the buffet is ample and adequate if not particularly imaginative or exceptional. The Bel Canto Bar, with its opera and theater theme is well worth a visit for a leisurely conversation and a nice selection of premium spirits.
After walking through a hallway decorated with Opera posters, our room continued in the dark reds and golds dominant in the public rooms. High ceilings and dark woods, red and white striped wallpaper, copious curtains and fabric covered headboards put you back to at least the 1930s. A substantial queen sized bed, with a slightly soft mattress, but good quality pillows was generally a positive. A quiet inner courtyard location another plus. The armoire was not ideal for modern travel. It is a somewhat strage feeling being in a room that is perhaps taller than it is wide.
In the substantial bathroom, a large tub with an after thought shower attachment and no shower curtain. Our tub had a fist sized crack in it from the shower head slipping out of someone's hand. Mercure provides good sized towels, but a little thinner than at many non chain hotels. Snall bars of soap and a few other amenities. Mood lighting in the bathroom was not particularly for the benefit of shaving and make up applications.
The hotel vaguely advertises some (probably small) conference facilities. In fact, both the Accor and Mercure websites are pretty lean in their desciptive powers relying on some photos of the hotel's architectural individuality. This is a three star hotel, that has chosen not to upgrade to a four star level. In that category, it is a rather good buy. In the early fall, there are often trade shows and this hotel quickly fills up. Mercure has several other properties in the neighborhood, also older establishments with similar advantages and disadvantages.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
ulysses4
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Member: Alan R. Fridkin
Location: Westfield, MA USA
Reviews written: 233
Trusted by: 21 members
About Me:
Mediator;attorney;retired Navy Captain;avid traveler;bon vivant.
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