A tale of two restaurants
Written: Aug 07 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Generally good food
Cons: Not as good as Periyali
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| mortalcoil's Full Review: Ithaka |
Inevitably one must compare this restaurant to Periyali, generally regarded as the best Greek restaurant in NY. The Gourmet magazine review of Ithaka even mentions that Periyali's owner frequently dines here, and suggests that Ithaka's food represents a somewhat more traditional alternative to Periyali's highly refined approach towards Greek cuisine.
Both restaurants emphasize seafood and grilled meats, and there is considerable overlap in their menus. Ithaka's, however, lists at least twice as many items, which naturally makes ordering a bit more difficult. In general, I find that restaurants with very long menus tend to have a higher percentage of mediocre dishes, and this seems to be the case with Ithaka. Every dish I've tried there has a better counterpart at Periyali, eg. the salads, the sweetbreads in white wine sauce, grilled lamb and snapper. Which is not to say that the food at Ithaka is bad at all. It's just that there's not much reason to go there, if you can go to Periyali instead. It's a bit cheaper, but the cost difference is overshadowed by the difference in quality.
Among my disappointments at Ithaka is one that ought to be a no-brainer. When you're first seated you're given a basket of bread and some olive oil, which is usually a fine way to start a meal. Unfortunately, the olive oil here is terrible, almost unrecognizable except by its color. It has almost no taste. Why the kitchen chooses to save money in this way is unimaginable.
The decor at Ithaka is simple and highly evocative of a Mediterranean setting. A glass ceiling floods the back room with light, and the overall ambience is pleasant and cheerful.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
mortalcoil
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Location: New York, NY
Reviews written: 85
Trusted by: 9 members
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