One of the best things about the ugly Trump International is that it houses one of New York's best restaurants. The superlatives garnered by this place are well deserved. Jean Georges Vongerichten has earned his laurels as a superstar chef, but he is not resting on them. A brief visit to his temple of cuisine will prove why this is so.

The Room

Surprisingly small, this intimate dining room is lent grace through its floor to ceiling windows and its spare appointments. There is nothing here to bowl you over with stupendous statuary or overblown decor. The off-white walls are dotted with a few whimsical bronze sculptures (including one of a violin) , and the rest of the room speaks for itself. Quiet light wood chairs with supple leather seats invite you to sit down and admire the restrained Art-Deco look of the room. Spare floral arrangements and unusual South American flowers adorn the tables. Don't go looking for sensational Park views either. Central Park looks best from above, so the views here are not sensational. Bear in mind that the view of your plate is the most important scenery here.

The Menu

Preamble

Before we begin the litany of courses, a few small details should be mentioned. Of course, the waiter offered the usual hyper-expensive water, and this time I bit, but only with a small bottle of San Pellegrino, a modest entry in the Water Sweepstakes. A plate of lemon and lime wedges came with the water. Following this, a basket of truly admirable bread was brought around. This is the real stuff here. Good, solid, denture-grabbing bread to soothe the soul. They served butter, as well as a rare Tuscan olive oil with the bread. I suggest trying the olive oil.

The table settings are admirably restrained too. Snowy linen, elegant silverware and plain white china dress the tables to the point of understated handsomeness. Only a mushroom colored square on the plates adds color. This echoes the soft gray checkerboard pattern of the carpet.

An amuse bouche of warm pea soup with mint foam soon arrived. Served in little shot glasses, it was definitely not the usual. Light and foamy, the soup went down like a charm, and I was left wanting more.

At lunch, courses are offered in small plates only, at just $12.00 each, an astonishing bargain when one considers the level of culinary talent here. One could do much worse for more money in New York.

First Course

The choices were many and varied, but I settled for the Foie Gras Brulee with dried sour cherries and candied pistachio. Looking something like an elaborate fruitcake, the small dish was packed both with flavor and with subtlety. Served on a light brioche, the foie gras had tiny bits of cucumber dusting its colorful surface. The foie gras worked particularly well with the pistachios, creating a nutty and different dish. Highly recommended.

I might have tried the Slivers of Red Snapper with Champagne grape and an herbal emulsion, or possibly the Tuna Tartare with lemon-shallot condiment, bonito flake dressing and crispy tapioca. Even the green asparagus with morels and asparagus juice must be very good here.

With this, I had a glass of the Chateau du Seuil, a white Bordeaux priced at $10.00 a glass. A crisp and refreshing wine.

Second Course

There are few disappointments here, but mine was that they had just run out of the Peekytoe Crab and English Pea Fondue with rhubarb gelee and Shiso. No matter, I selected the Chatham Cod with Honshimeji Mushrooms in Lemongrass Broth instead. Light and complex, the cod was a great success. The waiter even had the foresight to bring out a soup spoon so none of the beautiful broth should go to waste.

The sommelier brought out a glass of Placet White Rioja 2001. Actually, just a half a glass. If I was going to make it to the dinner party planned for that evening in Washington, I would have to monitor my wine consumption carefully.

Other offerings included the Turbot in a Chateau Chalon Sauce with tomato and zucchini. Black bass crusted with spices, tomato and sweet and sour juice sounded interesting too. How about Marinated Shrimp and Hearts of Palm in a Lemon-Licorice Vinaigrette? This sounded intoxicating. Maybe I could have had the Lemon Poached Lobster with spring vegetable tapioca and fragrant Gewurztraminer foam. There was a $5.00 supplement for this one, and I almost ordered it.

Third Course

On to heavier things. Having not had my fill of pistachios, I sselected the Pistachio Crusted Lamb Chop with spring vegetable risotto and pickled spring garlic. The risotto was perfect, something you don't always find. Each grain held its shape nicely. The pickled garlic added in terest to this diverse grouping of flavors. Somehow, they all complemented each other and the dish held its own without dissolving into a cacophony of notes.

I had half a glass of the Cote Rotie 1998. The sommelier knows his business here.

A few more items from the menu...Roasted Veal Medallion with Braised Romaine, Caramelized Porcini and Potatoes with Parmesan Emulsion sounds like a real winner. The Red Snapper and Braised Artichokes in Blood Orange Juice and Thai Basil Oil was also very tempting. Even a simple Broiled Squab with Arugula, Citrus and Scented Onions is accented with a hint of curry for interest.

Dessert

Could you possibly want dessert after all of this? Well, yes, if the desserts are what they have here. Four varieties of tastings are suggested. Chocolate, Exotic, Citrus and Caramel Tastings were on the menu. I chose the Citrus Tasting, which came with two out of four possibilities. The Milk Chocolate and Licorice Cake with ginger and candied kumquats was a light brown disc of incredible lightness and just mildly sweet. The licorice was a good balance to the chocolate. As if this were not enough, a Lime Semi-Freddo with Sable Breton and Warm Blood Orange and Date Stew arrived alongside it. The stewed blood oranges were really quite wonderful. The waiter brought out a glass of Rose Royale Banfi, a light dessert wine that almost tasted of cranberries. A plate of mignardises and a huge jar of marshmallows arrived too. Marshmallows? Here? These were not your average campfire marshmallows. The waiter delicately carved out three different flavors, coffee, green caramel and vanilla, from the enticingly layered glass jar. Though almost intoxicatingly sweet, the marshmallows were unlike any I have had anywhere.

Unfortunately, I had a train to catch, and could not prolong my repast with the required cup of coffee. I would have to settle for dreadful Amtrak coffee instead. All great things must come to an end, and I was sorry to have to make a hasty retreat to my room upstairs.

Service

The waitstaff here are professionals and know their business. There is no over-familiarity, no giving of names and no nonsense. You will, however, be attended to with a minimum of fuss and a maximum of comfort.

Wine

With one of the best (arguably) cellars in the city, this is a place to go if you like wine. If you don't know wine (I don't really pretend to know wine in great depth), you can trust the sommelier to select well for you. I was not disappointed.

Cost

As noted above, this lunch cost me only about $90.00 above the value of the lunch provided in the hotel package (the value of this lunch at Nougatine next door might have been about $20.00- at least according to the bill). At dinner, prices are considerably higher. Lunch here is a great deal, and should be well within the budget of travelers who are interested in outstanding cooking. Nothing really good is ever truly cheap, but this comes as close to great value as you can get in New York.

Dress Code

Though the dress code is more relaxed at lunch, I would still suggest wearing a jacket and tie. Ladies would want to wear something casually elegant. At night, the look is more formal. I would not suggest testing them on the dress code.

Reservations Etc.

I secured my table right after breakfast. Though it was nearly empty when I arrived at 12:00, the place filled up fast. Dinner reservations are still difficult to secure, so I would suggest booking well ahead, if possible. Reservations are accepted only one month in advance, however.

All major credit cards are accepted. Valet parking is available in the hotel's garage.

The restaurant is open as follows:

Lunch:

Monday- Saturday 12:00 PM- 3:00 PM

Brunch:

Sunday- 11:30 AM- 2:30 PM

Dinner:

Daily- 5:30 PM- 11:00 PM


Jean-Georges

in the Trump International Hotel

One Central Park West
New York, NY 10023

Tel. 212-299-3900

FAX 212-299-3914







Recommended: Yes

Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Do secure reservations in advance Lunch is a great bargain here
Best Suited For: Friends