Fried Fish, and Seagulls
Written: Jun 08 '02 (Updated Jun 10 '02)
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Pros: Fried whiting.
Cons: Fried food is not supposed to be good for your heart.
The Bottom Line: Fish, chips, clams, and beer. life is good, isn't it?
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| soothsayer's Full Review: Johnny's Reef |
Located at the tip of the Bronx near New York City’s largest park, Pelham Bay, is a small maritime community that in olden days saw shipbuilding, fishing, and clamming as a way of life. Well-heeled city residents would often rent houses and yachts in the summer, and then leave again as fall approached.
Today, the shipbuilding and fishing industries are gone, replaced by yacht dealerships, aging marine facilities, and small fishing shacks catering to sport fishermen. The island is more tightly integrated into the Bronx now, and no one would seriously consider vacationing here in the summer unless it was a quick food visit from nearby Orchard Beach. Among the many restaurants on the island, none are as well known as Johnny’s Reef located at its very tip.
Johnny’s Reef is a cross between a seaside boardwalk fast food stand, and a 1950’s diner with fast food, and service that is quick, and efficient. It should come as no surprise that Johnny’s was built in the 1950’s, and have stuck close to its tried and true formula of fried fish, chips, clams, and beer.
Outside in the large concrete patio, people from all over the Bronx, casually dressed in tees and shorts, dine shoulder to shoulder with their neighbors on picnic tables overlooking the Long Island Sound. The atmosphere is not half bad, there is sun, and there is surf. Out on the water, small boats and jet skiers laze the afternoon away while seagulls, not just one or two, but about a hundred, hover close overhead keeping a close watch on things. And just when you think they are about ready to swoop down on your fries, are repelled away by thin wires strung above the deck.
The food is as simple as it gets, and made to order. Fresh whole fish is dipped in thin batter, and deep-fried until golden brown. The thing comes out literally dripping with grease, and is served on top a pile of fries. Just add some condiments from the self-serve area, an ice cold drink, and you are set.
The menu features whiting, fillet of flounder, red snapper, shrimp, scallops, and squid ($9.00-$11.00). The shrimp, scallops and squid can be steamed if you wish. Mixed drinks, and beer ($2.50) are available at the bar, and there is a separate line for sodas, burgers ($2.50), coffee ($0.75), and dessert. To round out the menu, one can get clams (littlenecks, and cherrystones, $4.50/half doz), lobster tail, shrimp salad, corn on the cob, and Manhattan clam chowder ($3.50). There are some seasonal items as well, soft shelled crabs, frog legs, etc.
The best thing on the menu, of course, is the whiting; get that, and a drink. I thought the chowder, although thick and hearty with a lot of potatoes and clams, suffered from a lack of flavor. The fries are pretty good, although they may be a bit soggy. People say the shrimp (salad or fried) are very good also, but I did not try them.
Hours: Open ‘til midnight.
Address: 2 City Island Ave.
Transportation and other essentials: By Subway: Take the 6 Train to the last stop, Pelham Bay, then take the Bx29 bus from the subway to its last stop on City Island. There is a bike path that goes directly to City Island, and it takes about an hour to walk (3 1/3 miles total distance from subway to restaurant). By Car: Find your way to Pelham Bay Park; look for exits leading to Orchard Beach/City Island. Parking is easy as most restaurants have a parking lot, and Johnny’s Reef is no exception.
Recommended:
Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations fried whiting, shrimp, seafood items.
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