Bob Kinkead's restaurant in Red Lion Row on Pennsylvania Avenue is usually jammed with crowds of people, even though it never feels crowded. IT has received accolades from far and wide, including the DiRONA Awards, and four stars from the Mobil Travel Guide for about six years in a row. If you have not been here, and enjoy creatively prepared fish, I urge you to see about getting a table as soon as possible.

Location

Kinkead's is downtown, just across from the World Bank in Red Lion Row, a pastiche of Victorian building facades now tethered awkwardly to a green mirror-glass building behind them. Is this really preservation? I digress. We are here to talk about the incredible fish, not the building.

Decor

There are two distinct dining areas. The downstairs raw bar is far less formal and has a square bar in the center of the room. Don't be fooled by the less formal trappings, because you can get the same menu here as in the more formal dining room upstairs. A lighter bar menu is also available.

First Course

The first courses are often some of the most interesting things here. On one visit, I had a clam chowder which took this simple dish to new levels of creativity. The chowder was light and flavored with a hint of rosemary. Other offerings might include the lightly breaded calamari with a fiery aioli, or the equally good ceviche. The lobster bisque is full of large chunks of lobster meat in a rich broth. It is not the floury pink goop one is often given at lesser places. Fresh oysters are usually a good bet, but ask your waiter for advice. There is no set menu here, as it is planned daily according to what is fresh and readily available.

Main Course

The thing to have here is fish, in any form that Bob Kinkead has chosen to create. If Bob Kinkead put out snapper with chocolate sauce, I would probably be tempted to try it, just to see what his creative mind could do. Don't worry, he would never use his patrons as guinea pigs for strange experiments in his kitchen. If it is on the menu here, it's a good bet that it will be good. Ask the waiter what is good that night and you will likely not be disappointed.

On my last visit, I had one of the nightly specials, a healthy piece of mahi mahi with a light orange glaze. Simple in appearance, yes, but quite subtle in taste. Other items I have had before include the wonderful crab cakes, which have almost no filler, splendid plump salmon that flakes away when touched, and sea bass you will truly remember.

If pasta happens to be offered, you might want to jump at the chance, as his pastas are light and nearly perfect. Everything that comes out of this kitchen is balanced and carefully calibrated for visual effect as well.

Dessert

I have only had the desserts at brunch, which is no longer served here. The lemon creme brulee is excellent, though, and does appear on the evening dessert menus.

Wine List

The wine list is extensive, bur offers a range of good wines from modest bottles to sinfully extravagant ones too. The Sultan of Brunei might find something to like on the list here, but you need not be a potentate to enjoy something more modest. The sommeliers are very helpful and considerate of your budget. There is no obnoxious pressure upon you to select something you probably can't afford here.

Dress Code

Although there is no formal dress code, one would certainly feel more comfortable wearing a coat and tie or a good dress or tailored suit for the ladies in the upstairs dining room. Downstairs, the atmosphere is more casual, but I would not suggest pushing the limits here. This is a serious restaurant, and you ought to dress well when visiting this place.

Service

The service here is deft and assured and without a hint of arrogance. The waiters know their business and are professional, but not cold. Fortunately too, they are not over-familiar and will not volunteer their names unless asked.

Cost]

While the cost of dinner here is not inconsiderable, it is a bargain when one considers that many of Washington's cow palaces charge as much or more for (admittedly good) butcher's meat. Here, one gets the creativity of a dedicated chef whose laurels are ever-growing. Expect to spend about $150.00 for two with a very modest bottle of wine for dinner, half that at lunch.

Reservations and Miscellany

Although a reservation may not be required for the downstairs cafe, I urge you to reserve ahead for the dining room upstairs. This place is still wildly popular, even after a few years, so I would not take the chance of being refused. The last time I tried to book here, I was offered a table at 10:00.

Lunch- Mon.-Sat. 11:30 AM-2:30 PM

Dinner-Sun.-Thurs. 5:30 PM-10:00 Pm
Fri., Sat. 5:30 PM-10:30 PM




Kinkead's

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW (bet. 20th and 21st Sts.)
Washington, DC 20034

Tel. 202-296-7700




Recommended: Yes

Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Make reservations early, valet parking, downstairs bistro is less formal--same menu is available
Best Suited For: Business