Frank Zappa (1940-1993) was an American iconoclast in the broadest sense of that description (one who goes against the norms of societal institutions, practices, or attitudes). His music is there for those that want it. You can hate it and find it without any redeeming value, or you choose to explore it and find things in it that you can appreciate. It is difficult, complex, wonderfully subversive, and often times, noodling and unremarkable. And, it can be transparently fabulous for those that love an electric guitar solo and an opinion.

Lumpy Gravy was one release of Zappa’s that many take notice of for all the pluses and minuses of his talent. It is what it is; a strange work of both wonder and darkness, of ingenuity and awfulness, but also wildly divergent in terms of the reactions it elicits.

The Lagunitas Brewing Company of Petaluma, California has much the same approach to their beer products: wildly divergent and inventive offerings that appeal to beer explorers, but perhaps not so much to the casual beer drinker.

Lagunitas makes a number of seasonals (4-8) and year-round products (6 or so) and the company appeals to very individual tastes (”beer speaks, people mumble”). Its approach and motto can also be summed up from their Web site text as:

Trust your own taste buds, they can not lie to you. Enjoy the beer you like for reasons that are yours and yours alone.

Lumpy Gravy Ale is produced in memory of Frank Zappa’s individualism and the fortieth anniversary of the release of the Lumpy Gravy album (1968). Reproduced on the 22 oz. bottle ($3.99 in my area) is the original cover art from the album and a Zappa quote:

Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid.

If I were to describe the ale using lyrics and titles from the Lumpy Gravy album it would go something like this:

The way I see it Barry (and others), “Lumpy Gravy Ale” pours to a brown amber color with a frothy head indicating that it is not from Kansas. Some might consider it very distraughtening, but not me. I find it tastes like a bit of nostalgia with a white ugliness about it that demands another pickup just one more time.

There are some floral notes in the aroma that might encourage the inexperienced to take their clothes off and run screaming round the room mumbling about kangaroos and King Kong, but that’s not me. I’m almost Chinese to some, but not above switching girls if the beer is right.

Duodenum is a word that has something to do with the lower end of the stomach and thankfully, “Lumpy Gravy Ale” will tickle you there, if you scream ‘oh no again’ or ‘amen’ It’s a vicious circle and I don’t know if I can go through this again down at the gas station but I’ll try.

That was rather lame attempt, I know. Instead, I’ll describe in conventional terms:

Lumpy Gravy Ale pours to a brown amber color with a frothy head with minor floral notes. It has a decidedly different taste, a hybrid between that the malt sweetness of the brown ale, and the stickiness of a Scotch ale to the mouth. It has a likeable burnt toffee/brown sugar note operating within as well. There is a really nice marriage at work here between the sweet and the dry on the taste-bud continuum It starts out very sweet on the tongue and middle of the mouth with a tight dry ending at the back of the throat (a guitar solo if you will).

Lumpy Gravy Ale is a very likeable and drinkable ale, session worthy if you have no particular place to go [at 7.2 alcohol by volume (ABV), it can sneak up on you] and no desire for a burnt weeny sandwich.

Is it the Mother of Invention? Probably not. Will you Sheik Yerbouti to it? Only if you dare a dance with Uncle Meat. But you can drink it as you contemplate all things navel or otherwise. (four stars)

Note. This is the third ale that Lagunitas has produced in celebration of Frank Zappa's musical legacy. They have produced other anniversary ales tied to Zappa albums: Freak Out! Ale and Kill Ugly Radio Ale. [These are, apparently, limited time offerings.]

Sources
www.lagunitas.com, www.frankzappa.com





Recommended: Yes