Organic doesn't always mean good
Written: Jun 20 '01
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Product Rating:
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Pros: hmm, it's organic?
Cons: bitterness does not necessarily a best beer make
The Bottom Line: Can't blame Lakefront for trying with their certified organic beer but there's others in this category much more appealing. But if you want bitter then this one's for you, kid.
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| sleestakk's Full Review: Lakefront Organic ESB |
So it's Puerto Rican Day and I could think of no better way to observe the holiday than cracking into my stock of Lakefront Organic ESB. Living in the barrio I get a front row seat to the deluge of festivities ranging from an actual parade to the procession of colorfully decorated neighborhood vehicles displaying the Puerto Rican flag in all its glory - you know the one, the same one that Kramer lit on fire.
Of course you cannot disregard the rampant overuse of the car horn and continuous stream of hollerin' that fill the gaps in-between. It's gaudy. It's loud. It's fun. It's all about celebrating Puerto Rico. And drinking beer.
Sure, why not?
Since I don't have any Puerto Rican brew on hand I figured I'd go for the next best thing - my selection of organics. I mean, I'm pretty sure Puerto Ricans are organic. Hey, I kid. Thems good people. But before I could unlid a bottle, first things first, dealing with the noise, which peaks around the 6 O'clock hour. Although, it usually maintains a low roar throughout the afternoon into the night.
So, on to drown out the crowd of girls standing on street outside my front window whistling and screaming at every car sporting a Puerto Rican flag - which would be every car. Actually it's not wise to drive down my street at all unless the flag covers the entire hood or rear window or at least flies full mast out from the top of the vehicle, at least on that day. I popped in the new Jimmy Eat World - the CD of the summer, turned the knob clockwise, then commenced onto the drinking.
I should mention that besides Lakefront's Organic ESB I also imbibed in Butte Creek Brewing Company's Organic Ale for a real side-by-side comparison and because, well, it was an organic kind of day. We've all had them, right? The ESB pours a solid amber glass a notch darker than Palmolive® Antibacterial Hand Soap with Extra Grease Cutting, Concentrated Dish Soap (geez, that must be a bítch to market) while the Butte Creek Ale matches the dish soap color almost perfectly. But the ESB has a much softer cushion of pillowy white foam across the top.
The nose is fairly noticeable yet not remarkable with a hoppy honey scent like that warm summertime nose-itchin' fragrance that hangs in the early morning midwestern farm air. The aroma of the Butte Creek is similar but more intense. In this case I favor the milder ESB because it doesn't make me sneeze. Although, it does have a strange bandage-like odor which could be good or bad depending on your preferences.
It's the drink itself where the floor falls out for me. The first chilled mouthful is heavy on the hops which quickly explodes into not-so-subtle bitterness. A little sweetness peeks through but it's mostly the bitter that takes command making the mouthfeel a rather unpleasant experience. I sense a hint of caramel in the opening sips but it's all hops all the time that shrouds the other flavors. Understandably, I realize that "bitterness" is part of the package - it is called Extra Special Bitter for a reason. But I've had many others that don't erupt like this one. I'm just not down with that.
Once the brew calms after several drinks and my palate adapts, more of the malty nuances appear. The overall hoppiness tones down and a creamy character develops. Unfortunately, the bitterness still leaves its mark after the swallow and lingers until that next sip. I wish I could say that it finishes clean but all smoothness is lost in the clingy astringency that pervades the sensation. It's like glue, I say.
The Butte Creek Organic Ale, however, tastes altogether different. It's lightly sweet and not overwhelming. The hops flavor is mild and the first bite reminds me a lot of Chimay but not quite as roasty. This ale is actually quite good, unlike the ESB. Too bad it's not listed, otherwise I'd offer its own review.
Originally I picked up the ESB on Jazzman's recommendation even though he wasn't completely smitten with it either. Also I dig the Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee, WI and enjoy several of their offerings. Hopefully I'll get around to reviewing all of them. Gleaned straight from their web site I can tell you that this ESB incorporates two-row, caramel, and Munich malts combined with organic German Perle hops. Sounds good on paper. And it'll run ya six bills for a six-pack but only in Wisconsin and northern Illinois where it's distributed.
For hops-strong brews such as this one, I always choose ultra-flavorful foods, which work to temper the hoppy attack and can make the drink more satisfying. You could also be real clever and go the all-natural route of chemically-free, homegrown, free-range delights served on hemp dishware. Just be liberal with the spices. Or celebrate the occasion with the cuisine that represents whatever international holiday that may be on the calendar. It's all good. Anything to nullify the bitter.
Despite my leanings towards Lakefront Brewery and Midwest microbrewers in general, I'm obviously not all that crazy about the Organic ESB. But this doesn't mean you'll feel the same way. If you're ever in the area, stop by the brewery and try one for yourself. Maybe you'll have a more favorable impression. If not, that's okay. We still have Puerto Rican Day to share.
Cheers!
Recommended:
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sleestakk
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Member: Jay Stakk
Location: Chicago
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