The Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod has been on the market for years, has been fairly popular among outdoor enthusiasts, is effective for what it was intended to do, and has been relatively affordable. As a natural result of Herblock’s Law (“If it’s good, they’ll stop making it”), the company has now discontinued it; evidently, in an effort to avail itself of the ‘tacti-cool’ market niche. While the replacement, Lansky’s Tactical Knife Sharpening Rod, seems to offer the same, basic, diamond rod (along with a couple of other ‘features’), the all brass tube version still offers a couple advantages which may seem minor, but are not to be underestimated.
Why Herblock’s Law?
There are a number of companies which offer retractable, ‘diamond rod’ sharpeners of varying sizes, designs, etc. The trouble is that most have a plastic or nondescript, ‘metal’ housing. (The new, ‘tactical’ Lansky is ‘metal,’ but even the Lansky representative I spoke with couldn’t tell me what that ‘metal’ is.) EZE-LAP offers a similar, brass handle version (also available with an aluminum handle), with pouch, at an MSRP of $22.95. (Size = 3 ¼” x ¼”) Edgecraft also offers a brass handle model in their Chef’s Choice brand which is remarkably similar to the Lansky that can be had for $15 - $25 depending on your source. (You can also get it with a black, aluminum handle.) It’s listed as being 5” long retracted, 8 ½” extended, and the rod is 3 ¾” long.
The point is that aside from the size and certain ergonomics, the concept is virtually identical; right down to the groove for sharpening hooks, etc. The Chef’s Choice is made in the U.S.A. The EZE-LAP is also listed as being made in the U.S.A.
If you peruse the internet, most listings say “Made in the U.S.A” for the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod. There are, however, other listings which say “Made in China.” The confusion is understandable, so I called Lansky for a definitive answer and found they are, or were, Made in China.
My sense is that, given the virtually identical nature of these sharpeners, Lansky probably felt it was time to ‘differentiate’ itself by taking advantage of a certain market niche. The newer, “Tactical” Sharpening Rod is being marketed as follows:
The Lansky Tactical Sharpening Rod answers the call for a military tough knife sharpening tool that combines the speed of Lansky’s proven tungsten carbide sharpeners with the compact convenience of our retractable diamond rod. Keep it with you at all times for either fast blade maintenance or as a fighting stick as the need arises.
The tungsten carbide is used for quickly setting an edge and restoring a severely damaged or dull blade. The diamond rod will then refine the edge. For regular maintenance, the diamond rod alone is sufficient.
I’m sure there’s a perception that adding the tungsten carbide sharpener makes it easier to market as ‘more’ utilitarian. In addition, having read some of the forums where the Lansky is just one piece of gear discussed, two things jumped out. First, there was ‘criticism’ on Amazon and several chat rooms that the Lansky had ‘dark spots.’ Somehow, I guess it never occurred to people that brass will tarnish or develop a patina. That can actually be a good thing in that a patina will actually protect brass. (It’s a little more complicated than that; i.e., don’t use it as an ‘excuse’ not to take proper care of the tool.)
The second issue which emerged appears more directly on point. It seems that individuals were touting the brass housing, with diamond rod retracted, as a workable, albeit improvised, “kubotan;” a self-defense weapon or miniature ‘fighting stick’ or ‘baton.’ Thus the line in the line in the new, ‘tactical’ incarnation of – Keep it with you at all times for either fast blade maintenance or as a fighting stick as the need arises. Since the real kubotan is restricted in some jurisdictions, I’d be very careful in trying to ‘slide by’ on the supposed ambiguity and technicality: “No officer/judge. It’s not a restricted weapon. It’s simply my tool sharpener.”
Why Not Go With The New Version?
If you think the small, tungsten-carbide sharpener on the new, ‘tactical’ version is something that would be useful, then more power to you. To be sure, the primary, diamond rod is exactly the same. There are, however, several reasons why I prefer the brass version.
1.) The street price of the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod is notably less than the new version. I recently ordered another one from a local shop and paid $15.99. This was not a standard item for them; but, they were convenient. They can easily be found for $12 - $15, which is a notable price savings over the EZE-LAP or Chef’s Choice; especially when you factor shipping into the equation.
2.) The Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod #LRRDF, sometimes listed as 09670, has a lanyard cap large enough to comfortably slip paracord through. (There are a series of tools I like to take in certain circumstances and/or on certain trips where it is much easier to keep track of them if I can string them on a loop of parachute cord or similar.)
3.) There are times when I need a ‘punch’ and the brass version is much less likely to cause damage than one with an aluminum or ‘metal’ housing. (Brass also does not create sparks. I’ll let you contemplate the possibilities as to where this might be advantageous when working on things in the field.)
There is another reason as well; but, it can seem a bit more esoteric. The brass housing doesn’t have that “tactical look.” Put simply, there are those times when ‘looks’ do count in terms of the perception(s) created; often on both sides of the discussion. Remember, ‘camouflage’ is about blending in with the surrounding environment; i.e., appearing ‘natural’ as opposed to ‘standing out’ or, dare I say it, ‘advertising.’ (If potential use for self-defense is a criterion for you, bear in mind that the older, brass version weighs approximately 3 ½ oz. While that may be ‘heavy’ for a keychain ‘fob,’ it can be a factor in how effective it proves as a ‘weapon.’)
The Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod is, or was, listed as useful for Kitchen, Outdoor, and Shop use. (The new, ‘Tactical’ model is simply listed for Outdoor and Shop use.) The problem would seem to be that kitchen cutlery and fish hooks don’t usually have that same cachet for the marketers. I mean, how ‘tactical’ can it be if Grandma or Mom use it in the kitchen and Grandpa or Dad pull it out of their fishing vest? Sheesh. I mean, just look at the ignominious write-up…
Lansky’s Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod fits almost anywhere. The sturdy 5 inch all-brass case is knurled to provide a comfortable non-slip grip. Just twist the cap when you want to sharpen a knife and the diamond sharpening rod extends 3.5 inches and locks in place. It’s designed to work like a Butcher’s rod and can be used for sport, work and kitchen cutlery, and it’s grooved for sharpening fish hooks and other pointed objects.
That can’t be ‘cool.’ Utilitarian, maybe. But, where’s the ‘umph’ with the – ‘insert market niche here’ – crowd?
Using It – Official and Not Exactly ‘Official’ Instructions
According to Lansky’s 2011 Catalog…
Lansky’s Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod fits almost anywhere. The sturdy 5 inch all-brass case is knurled to provide a comfortable non-slip grip. Just twist the cap when you want to sharpen a knife and the diamond sharpening rod extends 3.5 inches and locks in place. It’s designed to work like a Butcher’s rod and can be used for sport, work and kitchen cutlery, and it’s grooved for sharpening fish hooks and other pointed objects.
To be a bit more precise, the brass housing/grip/handle is 4 ¾” long without the removable, lanyard ring ‘cap.’ At the business end is a collet with a twist cap which creates the tension necessary to hold the rod in place; either inside the housing or extended. (The rod can be extended to whatever length; but, it does require a certain amount of torque to make sure the rod is stable in the extended position and securely in place when retracted into the housing/grip/handle.) The rod itself is actually 4 9/16” long. However, only 3 5/8” are actually diamond coated; with 3.5” being the maximum length it will extend. A small clip is loosely fitted around the non-coated end to keep the rod from exiting the collet end. The ‘groove’ is a channel approximately 1/16” in depth running the entire length of the rod and is just an hair under 1/8” wide.
The first priority to keep in mind when using the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod is not to use a whole lot of pressure when stroking the edge. In fact, it can be real easy to take away more metal than you intend if you get too aggressive. The packaging and company website claim this is a “Fine Grit” rod and the company considers it to be 600 grit. What that means is the rod will generally not be suitable for ‘finishing’ the edge; i.e., it is intended to bring a dull blade back to an usable edge, one that is, perhaps, a bit sharper than many ‘factory’ edges.
Well, at least insofar as knives are concerned. I rarely use it on my axes, preferring a flat file and sharpening ‘puck’ for those. (see link below for Gränsfors Bruks Axe Sharpening Stone) The point is that ‘grit’ isn’t necessarily a good basis upon which to ‘judge’ a diamond rod given that such rods tend to be more ‘aggressive’ or ‘coarse’ when it comes to removing metal than ‘stones’ of the same or similar ‘grit;’ a situation exacerbated if you use too much pressure. The type of steel used in the blade can influence the effectiveness as well. Likewise, the ‘grind’ of the knife can be a real factor. That’s why I tend to think of this rod as ‘restoring an edge’ as opposed to ‘maintaining’ or ‘finishing’ an edge.
This notion is reinforced with Lansky’s Official Instructions on the packaging…
1. Hold the sharpener in one hand and place the end of the diamond rod on a stable surface; hold the unit at an angle of approximately 20-25 degrees.
2. Hold the knife in your other hand and draw the knife edge down the diamond rod, just as you would when slicing bread. Repeat this motion 3 – 5 times.
3. Change hands and repeat the process.
Repeating the motion 3 – 5 times is more than enough in many cases unless the blade is very dull. If you do use it on an axe such as the Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe (see link below), it may take a couple more strokes until you reach the point where you should be working with a stone. To use Lansky’s analogy, think in terms of cutting a couple of slices of bread for a sandwich rather than slicing up the whole loaf at one time.
‘Unofficially,” this rod can be used much like a file. Where the ‘official’ instructions indicate working the knife against the rod, you can hold the knife steady and work the rod into the edge; the way you would properly work it with an axe blade. One of the reasons such a technique is not ‘recommended’ or cited is that you will, for the most part, be moving your hand toward or into the edge rather than ‘away’ from it. I can see where this could be a problem and if you don’t feel comfortable with it, then you should not do it; i.e., the more ‘uncomfortable’ you are with a technique, the more likely you are to have an ‘accident.’
This is one of those times when the lanyard ring actually helps. Create a lanyard from paracord or something suitable which is just large enough to fit your hand through. Hold the sharpener and lanyard in front of you horizontally (parallel to the ground). Insert your hand through the lanyard from the bottom, inserting the lanyard ring/cap in the center of your palm and ‘cup’ the three fingers around the housing toward the rear. If you’re right-handed, your thumb should rest along the left side of the housing and your forefinger should be extended along the top.
I wear large to x-large size gloves, depending on the manufacturer. This ‘hold’ places the end of my forefinger over the twist cap tensioning the collet; allowing me to control the downward pressure and giving me a ‘feel’ for how the rod is ‘riding’ on the grind of the edge. (If you maintain a proper and consistent angle, as the knife sharpens, the strokes should feel and sound ‘smoother.’ If you’re still ‘grinding’ by the third or fourth stroke, you’re likely not holding a consistent angle.) It also gets your fingers about as far ‘out of the way’ as they can be and allows the edge of the collet twist cap to act akin to a ‘quillon,’ albeit a narrow one.
Either technique takes some practice to get good at. As a result, I would strongly recommend you start with lesser expensive knives, preferably in a variety of steels, so that you develop a sense for how the process feels as you hone the edge. Remember, knife sharpening is as much ‘art’ as ‘technique;’ but, good ‘technique’ is the foundation for the ‘art.’
Besides Knives and Axes?
Lansky touts this sharpener as appropriate for fish hooks (or other ‘pointed’ objects), gut hooks (or other ‘hard to reach’ edges), and serrated blades. I will say this much, if you’re going to use it on fish hooks, move the hook, not the sharpener. I have used it on the serrated portion of the blade on the Gerber LMF II (see link below) and on the serrated blade of my Leatherman Wave. The diameter of the rod is almost too big; but, it can be done if you’re careful. However, there are better designed rods (tapered) for that task; at least for my purposes. The same holds true (again, for me) when it comes to gut hooks.
Final Thoughts
Replacement rods are not available for either the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod or the ‘tactical’ version replacing it. Given the price of the replacement rods I do see listed for the kits, I suspect that it was judged more economically feasible to simply replace the entire sharpener. How long before you would have to? Well, assuming you don’t break it, I will say that my original one is still doing service and I honestly don’t remember how long I’ve had it.
A lot of how long it will last depends on making sure you properly clean it. Water is all it usually takes to remove the accumulated metal particles; though an occasional, light pass with a ‘soft’ brush doesn’t hurt. The critical factor, however, is to make sure you completely dry the rod before storing it in the housing. In this case, simply unscrew the lanyard ring cap and slide the rod out. (Make sure not to lose the small clip on the end of the rod.) Wipe it down and let it dry. It also doesn’t hurt to run a dry patch and/or soft brush through the brass housing to remove any build up inside.
This product is not a panacea for getting knives or other cutting tools ‘scary sharp.’ As indicated above, I think of this rod in the context of ‘restoring an edge’ as opposed to ‘maintaining’ or ‘finishing’ an edge. In fact, if your edge is already sharp, I would recommend against using the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod on it. Sharpening an edge is a progression and there are no real shortcuts. Put another way, this sharpener is a ‘field expedient’ tool which will restore a dull edge to usable sharpness. To ‘finish’ the edge, whether knife or axe, make sure you have a good stone with you.
If it seems I’ve been a bit critical of the new, ‘tactical’ version and the company’s marketing department, this last is truly the crux of the matter. Tungsten carbide sharpeners are a bit 'hit and miss' in terms of which steels/knives they are effective on. They are also fairly coarse. In other words, to my mind, the one in the new version of this sharpener is simply for restoring the edge to ‘small’ knives; particularly the ubiquitous folders on the market today. Therefore, I find it irritating that the product has ‘lost’ the aforementioned ‘benefits’ I find desirous in ‘exchange’ for something I, personally, don’t need or want.
I’ve cited the 2011 Lansky catalog as listing the Lansky Retractable Diamond Sharpening Rod. It is the company’s website which now declares: “Item discontinued. Try instead our Tactical Diamond Rod.” In fact, I was told the company now has none left for distribution. Be that as it may, there are still a wide variety of listings on the internet claiming to have this model in stock. Likewise, the salesman at the local shop I ordered my most recent one from told me two days ago when I ordered yet another that his distributor “has a bunch in stock.” (I didn’t get him to define ‘bunch’ as I only wanted to order one. Unfortunately, it has become a growing predicament that too many manufacturers seem to have adopted Herblock’s Law as an operational imperative, causing me to feel compelled to spend more money than I’d like to ‘stockpile’ at least two of an item I find works.)
All I can say is, if you think this particular design has similar benefits for you, get one while you can.
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