I Am Carnivore: Hear Me Roar!
Written: Aug 23 '01 (Updated Sep 10 '01)
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Pros: Any Prime Rib Cut, Service & Attention To Details. Sergio.
Cons: Frequent waits, even with reservations.
The Bottom Line: If you are in the mood for a delicious prime rib dinner, with all the extras, pomp and circumstance, Lawry's stands head and shoulders above the competition.
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| kcfoxy's Full Review: Lawry's Prime Rib |
My mouth was watering in anticipation, after hearing about Lawry's Prime Rib, for the past 5 years. Visions of tall silver carts, spinning salads and slabs of rosy beef danced before my eyes, and our recent trip to Southern California would not be complete without a splurge meal at this Beverly Hills institution.
The original Lawry's first opened its massive doors on La Cienega Blvd. in 1938. Perhaps best known for their truly marvelous Lawry's Seasoned Salt, it is comforting to know that this is still a family concern, through 3 generations and over 6 decades of service.
When planning a trip to Lawry's, reservations are a must, and the travel guides we perused, recommended booking 1 to 2 weeks in advance. As you would imagine, weekends are the busiest, though I doubt a table sits empty long, on any of the 7 days a week this venerable Los Angeles institution is open.
In our case, my guy waited until the last minute, even though he was from Southern California, and had been the very person to regale me with Lawry's trivia and special interest stories. As a former cook for the U.S.C. football program, he mentioned the traditional team meal served each season at Lawry's. I was impressed as he recounted how much meat these hungry linebackers, guards and tackles would devour.
I wouldn't recommend this spur of the moment behavior to others, but when Romeo dialed up the maitre d', Sergio, magic seemed to happen. One mention of the fond football feeding frenzies and we were told to come right over.
An imposing marble structure, done in tasteful pastel earth tones, Lawry's provides valet parking which is worth the few dollars it costs. Instead, we parked a long block and a half away, and around the block. With a strapping 6'3" escort, this was acceptable, but I wouldn't suggest this after dark.
Entering Lawry's, I was taken by the large entry way, with dark walnut antiques, and busy flowered upholstery on the many Victorian horsehair settees amd chairs. Two largish parlors were jammed with people waiting to be served. Judging by the clothing, and mix of people, I would say this Friday evening's crowd consisted of birthday, anniversary, wedding rehearsal parties, and more casually dressed out-of-towners.
To feel truly comfortable, you need to go casual dressy. Men can get away with Dockers and golf shirts, (at a minimum), and women would be comfortable in either nice slacks or skirt. My honey, flaunting his Hawaii Pro Bowl '94 NFL cap, approached the podium, with a sort of wide-gaited lumber-strut that is common to aging athletes the world round.
Whether Sergio thought Richard was a professional player, or just sought to oblige a former Lawry's alumnae, I will never know, but we were immediately whisked to a small table for two in the second dining room. The rather boisterous Main dining room, (second), Oval Dining Room and (third), Wine Dining Room all appeared filled to capacity.
Rich burgundy velvet banquettes and high backed chairs complimented the Old English feel of the antiques and dark wood, and subliminally alerted the taste buds to gustatory delight straight ahead.
Waitresses briskly worked the room, replete in starched white aprons and caps. The caps were somehow loony and reassuring all at the same time; a cross between pampering nanny and efficient nurse. Plenty of wait staff ensured attentive, but not smarmy service. Yes, Lawry's excels in fine and professionally polished service.
The menu was short, to the point. We were here to eat red meat, and could chose between the petite California cut, regular sized Lawry's cut, the gargantuan slab known as the Diamond Jim Brady cut, or 3 thin slices of boneless rib roast, called the English cut.
The ex-jock went for the 2 inch thick Jim Brady cut, while I picked the Prime Rib and 2 Broiled Lobster Tail combo. A tall silver cart, which is actually hammered stainless steel, wheels silently to your table, and a knife-wielding chef deftly performs with surgical precision on each 16 to 18 pound standing rib roast.
Reminding myself to breathe, I settled in for this wondrous meal which, as all fine meals are, was also great performance art. You have to see to believe the Famous Original Spinning Bowl Salad, created and mixed tableside, by a sangfroid server, with dexterous juggling skills.
Most sides are served a la carte, and include an excellent signature dish, creamed spinach, as well as baked potatoes-on-steroids, creamed corn or peas. We split a serving of the sublime spinach, and being the real softie I am, divied up the lobster tails as well.
At each table, a small bottle of both Lawry's vaunted Seasoned Salt and my new favorite, Seasoned Pepper, had pride of place. The pepper, which contains white, black and pink varieties was put to good useon the salad. The meat, was tender and perfectly seasoned as it was, though I couldn't resist a slathering of the lovely horseradish sauce, which blends pungent horseradish and creamy whipped cream.
Your meal comes with traditional Yorkshire Pudding, which is like an eggy popover, and has never been one of my favorite items. I heard it was very good, not soggy as it can be in lesser rib places. Quite good, were the mashed potatoes, prepared homestyle, with bits of potato pieces, milk and butter. I thought I detected a hint of garlic, but it wasn't listed in the description on the website, so this may have been a Gilroy flashback to my interesting salad.
The lobster tails were sweet, succulent and tender. I hesitated to order these, due to most Steak and Chop Houses' indifferent product; all too often rubbery, over-cooked, and less than fresh tasting. I noticed a daily fresh fish special, which rotates through dilled salmon fillet, halibut, striped bass and more.
I always find dessert menus humorous, after polishing off an incredible carnivorous feast such as this, though this time I had shown uncommon restraint. I actually had a nice 6 ounce center cut of meat left over, and the waitress was more than agreeable about adding a handful of fresh rolls to my doggie container, perfect for a midnight sandwich mini feast.
But for the sake of this review, I did investigate the dessert menu, and what appealed to us, was the sorbet trio. Choices were mango, pineapple and guava, or the more traditional raspberry, peach and lime. Those that know my tastes realize I would instantly gravitate toward anything tropical, but in this case, I settled for a few spoonfuls of my dining partner's more classic selection.
If I had an extra stomach I know exactly which sweet creation I would have tackled: English Trifle with Vanilla Pudding Sauce beckoned with a siren call of 2 different rums, sponge cake and jammy filling. A recipe for this delight can be found at the Lawry's website, www.lawrysonline.com.
Our bill, which included 2 cocktails, iced tea, tip and tax was only $75. I consider that fair price for a special night on the town, and cradled my dear leftover container on the short ride back to our hotel. From start to finish, this was a deeply satisfying experience and one that easily deserves a 5 star rating.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Avoid weekends and Holidays. Valet parking worthwhile. Bring your appetite, and share sides and desserts. Suitable for older children. Infants and toddlers will not like limited menu and pacing of meal.
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
kcfoxy
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Member: Casey Stewart
Location: West Coast Of Mars
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