Le Central: A Fine Old Standby
Written: Sep 17 '00 (Updated May 22 '03)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Good traditional french food
Cons: Preparation can be unpredictable
The Bottom Line: Nice
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| Mr.Eyore's Full Review: Le Central |
Le Central is, for many, a San Francisco institution. This is where Mayor Willie and the late Herb Caen had lunch something like every Friday for 30 years. It's on the edge of downtown, so it's great place to have dinner if you're working late and have to return to the office, but it is also strangely on a street (Bush) where you can find parking on a Friday or Saturday night.
Pookster took me here on our first date back in 1995, only I didn't know it was our first date until we actually started dating in 1999. Back then, she told me what an institution it was, but all I could really think about was the guy at the next table who couldn't resist starting every sentence with the word "I" and his date who sat quietly until he got up to go to the bathroom and then started inhaling all the food on the table.
Pookie got the butter lettuce salad and the sausage back in 1995, and she's gotten the same thing every time we've gone back. I got the crab cakes and the steak au poivre, which I think I've gotten all but one time since. The crab cakes are pretty good, considering what else is out there passing as crab cakes. It comes with a fine sauce that has just enough creaminess and tartness from what looks like a balsamic reduction. But the steak is the reason to go. Typically, the filet is of the finest quality, the sauce is rich and the pommes frittes are perfectly crispy and salty. I'm told that the restaurant is off its game the last few years – that the steak isn't always cooked that well – but I can't ratify the sentiment. I've enjoyed my meal every time I've been there.
The last time I went, I had a seafood risotto, which was good but not great. I've had better at several area restaurants, including Kuletos. But then, I've also had much worse, including at McCormick & Kuletos. Go figure.
The wine list has always had something satisfying to offer. I'm not an wine expert, but I have yet to go wrong by going with whatever the waiters recommend.
Le Central is a nice place to take out of town guests. It has a legitimate French bistro feel, and you will be served be legitimate French people ... and they're not snooty. In fact, they weren't even snooty when I took my cousin from Delaware there and he sent his Zinfindel back because it wasn't pink. That in itself may be enough to merit giving it a try. So go.
Recommended:
Yes
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Mr.Eyore
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