I passionately love good Polish food. So much, in fact, that I made mr_chelledun drive an extra hour and a half on what was already a six hour drive so I could get some at the famed Legs Inn in Cross Village, Michigan. Fortunately, it was worth it. In addition to a yummy meal, the Legs Inn provided one of the most Polish evenings I have ever experienced, barring a three hour stint at the Warsaw Airport and Polka Night at our local Catholic churchs annual ethnic festival.
Know Before You Go
Legs Inn, a national historic landmark, was the brainchild of Stanley Smolak, an eccentric Polish immigrant with a penchant for American Indian art and culture. In the early 1900s, Smolak began to sell his carvings in an Cross Village gift shop. Eventually the site evolved to include a restaurant, bar, gardens, and rental cottages. Much of Smolaks artwork can still be seen in and around the restaurant, which features a unique mix of Polish and American Indian decor.
This place is in the middle of nowhere. Cross Village appears to consist of about four buildings situated along a country road in northwestern Michigan. The Inn is about two hours from Traverse City and forty-five minutes from either Mackinac City or Petoskey. Despite this, the place was packed when we visited! There are no reservations and no call-ahead seating, so plan to wait a bit. Its not a hardship though with a full bar, gardens, and plenty of live entertainment, I think I would have been disappointed not to have some time before my meal.
Atmosphere and Service
This place is really something. The building is truly one of a kind, with stone walls and dozens of stove legs lining the roof. (Thats where the name comes from, by the way!) Once inside, guests wander through a series of hallways before reaching the heart of the inn, a lounge with a full bar, live polka music, antler chandeliers, and a ginormous blob-like carving bearing a crown. Mr_chelledun and I immaturely christened him the King of Poop before we learned that he was actually one of Smolaks works and a mascot of sorts for the restaurant. Other nooks in this cavernous building contain pool tables and arcade games to amuse patrons. The restaurant itself is an indoor/outdoor affair, with a bustling dining room along with a beautiful lakeside seating area. We requested a table indoors due to the chilly night and settled in for a half hour wait to be seated.
Ive never encountered a restaurant atmosphere quite like that of Legs Inn. The musicians certainly werent the best Ive ever heard, but the sounds of polka created a festive and exciting air in what would otherwise have been just a waiting room. This is the kind of place where you chat with your neighbor and clap along to the music. Mr_chelledun and I enjoyed a beer or two while watching couples and families try their hand at polkaing around the room and couldnt believe it when our thirty minutes had passed.
Service at the Legs Inn was warm and friendly. Our lovely server was from Warsaw and seemed determined to make sure we enjoyed our meal. The food came out at an excellent pace, allowing time to enjoy each course but little waiting in between. This is clearly a tightly run ship, which probably explains its continued success despite its far-flung location.
The Food
This place is not for the dinner salad crowd - Legs Inn specializes in hearty, calorie-laden Polish food. The menu is somewhat unique in that the appetizer and dinner selections are fairly similar except in terms of portion size. This means that if you cant decide between the potato pancakes and the pierogi, you can get one for an appetizer and one for dinner.. You can also start your meal with some distinctively non-Polish items such as mozerella sticks and or chicken tenders, but why would you? Mr_chelledun and I forewent an appetizer in lieu of salads and warm, fresh rye bread. For the record, the ranch dressing.was so fabulous it must have been homemade.
On the entree front, we each ordered the $16.00 Polish Combination, which allowed for choice of two items from a list that included kielbasa (polish sausage), golabki (cabbage rolls), and meat/cheese pierogi (stuffed potato dumplings). I selected the kielbasa and cheese pierogi, while mr_chelledun opted for the kielbasa with meat pierogi. The meals came with sauerkraut and kopytka (sort of like gnocchi). The kielbasa was top-notch. This traditional meat is a staple at my familys Thanksgiving celebration, and the Legs Inns flavorful version rivaled Grandma Chelleduns best offerings. (Shh
dont tell her!) The kopytka were also fabulous with a delightfully chewy consistency. My only disappointment involved the pierogi. I like mine slightly crispy around the edges, but these were pretty doughy throughout. With so many other foods to enjoy, though, I wasnt too bothered.
We managed to save a smidgeon of room for dessert and chose the apple crepe. As with the pierogi I might have preferred the pastry a little crispier, but the fruit filling was amazing and the portion side was just right for the two of us to enjoy a taste of something sweet after a filling meal. Desserts cost between $3.00 and $6.00 and other choices include Szarlotka (a traditional fruity cake), fruit pierogi, and cheesecake with berry topping. As you see, my people love their fruity desserts. Personally, I would have loved to see kolaczkis included on the Inns dessert menu. We used to enjoy these yummy traditional cookies every Christmas Eve when I was young and eating one always brings back warm memories.
Overall
Legs Inn is an experience, not just a meal. I loved this restaurants warm atmosphere, authentic cuisine, and funky vibe. For anyone the least bit intrigued by Polish food, polka music, American Indian Art, or simply a good time, the Legs Inn is worth a road trip into the wilderness.
Recommended: Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Anything Polish.
Best Suited For: Kids and Families
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