Mexican food done right!
Written: Nov 04 '03 (Updated Feb 10 '05)
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Pros: Fantastic food, service, location, decor, hospitality, etc.
Cons: No reservations for small parties. They don't need to take reservations, as they're always busy.
The Bottom Line: There is no reason not to go to Tequila's. It consistently delivers some of the best dining experiences I have had in Center City Philadelphia.
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| slarter's Full Review: Los Catrines Restaurant & Tequila's Bar |
Updates can be found in the Postscripts. SL
Los Catrines Restaurant & Tequila's Bar is quite a mouthful to say, especially if you are attempting to roll your R's properly. In the course of normal conversation, I generally shorten the name to Tequila's, and everyone knows what I'm talking about. I talk about it often, by the way. This place is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Philadelphia, with so much going for it that it is hard to choose what to rave about first. If you live in Philadelphia, and haven't been to Tequila's yet, you are truly missing out. So, having dispensed with the introduction, let us move on to the rave review.
The Decor
Tequila's used to reside in a very cozy spot, with a bar decorated as a grass hut, and a long room with booths on one side and tables spread throughout the rest of the area. I mourned briefly when I heard that they were moving to their current location at 16th and Locust Streets, as I had become quite fond of the original place. My mourning turned to joy, however, when I beheld the wonders of their new space.
It is, to put it simply, magnificent. It is not so much the beautiful, dark wood bar stretching almost the length of the first dining area. It is not necessarily even the stunning chandelier gracing the bar area, which incidentally had to be valued for insurance purposes by some antique dealers I know when M. Night Shyamalan used the building to film part of the movie Unbreakable (it's Samuel L.'s art gallery, for those who saw it). No, the most amazing part of the new Tequila's decor is the murals, splashed in bold, vibrant color across the entrance and dining room walls. They are gorgeous. For a more extensive discourse on the meaning of the murals, check out the restaurant's website. Here, I will simply say that the muralist is Clemente Orozco Farias, and the authenticity his work brings to Tequila's atmosphere is bold and refreshing.
When you sit down at the table, an attractive combination of stoneware and chunky blue glasses will be waiting for you. The beaten copper plate at each place setting provides a nice accent to the actual dishes. I wish they would leave it there for the entire meal, but they remove it when the first course comes out, more's the pity. With the combination of the wall decorations and the table settings, Tequila's offers an appealing atmosphere in which to dine.
The Alcohol
Tequila's serves a wide selection of, well, tequilas. They also serve beers, and a surprisingly varied group of wines. I never drink them, but my wife swears by their margheritas. Have you ever heard of Herradura tequila? Or Don Eduardo Anejo? Or El Tesoro? If you haven't, the staff at Tequila's will be happy to educate you on the subtleties of Mexico's finest export. In case you don't know, tequila can display fully as much character and distinction as Scotch (though my preference lies with the latter). Put off by the harsh, palate-burning flavor of Jose Cuervo? Try a blanco for a different experience. Just ask; you may enjoy the new experience.
If you like wines (though why drink wine with Mexican food?) you will find a decent selection here. The reds hail from France, Spain, Australia, the U.S., and Argentina. Whites are available from France, Spain, and the U.S. Everything from Rosemount Estate Grenache/Syrah ($25) to Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac ($750) is available to tempt your tastebuds. Tequila's provides quite a range.
Beers are... well, they're Mexican beers. They're not terrible, but they may be more like beer-flavored soda than anything else (Corona, anyone?). Dos Equis is not bad, but there is too much variety to be had in the tequila list to bother with mediocre beers.
The Food
I always get the beef when I come here. It is not that the chicken dishes are lacking in any sense, it is more that I have found chicken to be, simply, chicken. Wherever you get chicken, however it is dressed up, you still get the same basic flavor and texture. I like chicken, don't get me wrong, but when I eat out, I like to try bold, strong flavors. Beef, lamb, and salmon are some of my favorites in this regard, and it is Tequila's beef dishes, in part, that bring me back again and again.
One of my favorites, due to the fact that I can't resist anything avocado, is the Carne Aguacate. Here is what Tequila's says about it: "The chef selects the finest cuts of the meats. Stuffed with mushrooms, tomato and epazote (an herb). Finally, it is covered with a light creamy sauce made with avocado and cilantro."
When they say that the chef selects the finest cuts of meat, what they neglect to mention is how meltingly tender that steak is. The mildness of the avocado-cilantro sauce is a beatiful thing when matched with the chocolaty richness of the steak.
Another perennial favorite is the Carne A La Trenza, which boasts "the look of the trenza (braid) worn by our Mexican heroines. This choice cut of beef lies on top of our famous chorizo sauce. It is complemented with guacamole, rice and refried beans." Again, the rich, tender steak, creatively braided, is a fantastic centerpiece to this dish. The refried beans are cooked until they are almost black, with the creamy guacamole providing a pastel counterpoint. Oh, Lord, what a wonderful dish!
My wife's favorite is the Molcajetes, which is a sort of beef or pork stew served in a hot lava rock bowl. The spectacle of a large (10-inch diameter) rock being placed in front of you tends to draw every eye from the surrounding tables. Soft tortillas, with rice, beans, and guacamole are the accompaniments. Forget the sizzling fajitas you find at T.G.I. Fridays or other chain restaurants--the Molcajetes are the real deal. Tomato, garlic, and chile de arbol salsa covers the cooked meat, and believe me, the rock will keep your entree warm for as long as it takes you to eat it.
So what about the rest of the menu? I can't say much, as I'm so fixated on the beef offerings. I only had chicken once at Tequila's, and frankly I can't remember much about it. Like I said, chicken is chicken. Click on the link at the bottom of the review to get to Tequila's website, where you can admire the decor and read the rest of the menu. I've heard that they have fish on it, too.
The Service
Even if the food was only good, as opposed to superb, I would return to Tequila's again and again. What makes it memorable, outside of the location and the food, is something that is all too often ignored in the restaurant industry--a personal touch. David Suro-Piñera, the owner, remembers every regular patron, and takes pains to greet them whenever they arrive. This courtesy extends much, much farther than you may expect. I have passed Señor Suro on the street before, and he said hello! How often will that happen, that a restauranteur will greet one of his patrons on the street. I am not a high-roller by any stretch of the imagination, but he still said hello! This may seem like common courtesy, but like common sense, common courtesy is not so common anymore. At other times, I have walked by the large picture windows in front of the restaurant. Señor Suro leaned down, looked through the bottom panes of the window, and waved. I have never, ever felt as welcome in any other restaurant as I do at Tequilas.
This friendliness extends to the staff as well. Most of the staff is Mexican, or at least Spanish speaking, and they deliver a brilliant Latin flair to the service. My wife especially likes the birthday experience, in which four or five of the waiters surround the table and sing to her while one of them strums a guitar. We have no idea what they are saying, but it's wonderful nonetheless. Gentlemen, take your girlfriend here, and surprise her with the birthday treatment. But look out for la cucaracha!
The service at Tequila's may not be as polished as that at a five-star restaurant, but we have never felt rushed, unwelcome, or forgotten there, and that is a rare accomplishment.
The only sour note I can think of including is the fact that they do not take reservations for small parties at Tequila's. We never mind the wait, as it allows for an extra margherita at the bar, but some of our friends have tried to get reservations for four, and were put off by the fact that they were not forthcoming. Just get there early in the evening, and you will be ushered right in. That is our experience anyway. And if you have to wait, duck around the corner to Monk's Cafe (16th & Spruce) for an immense selection of specialty beers to sample while you wait.
Final Thoughts
I could go on praising Tequila's for longer, but in the interests of brevity, I shall stop here. The next time you are in Philadelphia, make it a point to look for Tequila's. You may not get the personal greeting that regulars receive, but you will certainly be greeted warmly, and treated to a fantastic meal by the very personable staff. Try the beef, try the fish, try the chicken, according to your preference. Whatever you do, though, don't pass up the opportunity to try Tequila's.
http://www.tequilasphilly.com
P.S.
We went back to Tequila's last night, for the first time in about a year, and once again were reminded of how fantastic a restaurant it is. Senor Suro recognized us almost instantly, and took 5 or 10 minutes out of his evening to stand and talk to us as we sipped our drinks in the bar area. Mind you, we hadn't been to his restaurant in over a year, so we couldn't exactly be classed as regulars. Yet he still talked to us for a good, long time. He asked us where we had been, and my wife confessed that we were on a sushi bent, whereupon he commenced to ask us what our favorite sushi bar in Philadelphia is, and waxed eloquent on the wonders of Morimoto, a top notch sushi place in Center City. So not only did he talk with us for quite some time, but he talked with us about another restaurant!
One other topic he spoke on was the fact that he does not advertise. Magazines don't like this, as they don't get money out of him, but he prefers instead to sink a good deal of his money back into the kitchen and food. He imports a lot of his spices and ingredients directly from Mexico, for maximum authenticity, and man, does it show in the taste! This is a true restauranteur--he cares about his customers and about his food.
Last night I tried two tequilas, one a blanco, and one a reposado (aged about 3 months and 8 months, respectively). The Pueblo Viejo label was recommended to me by our waiter, who also talked me into accompanying my drinks with a Sangrita, a sort of non-alcoholic Bloody Mary, which he said was great for sipping between swallows of tequila. He was right. The reposado, which I tried first, was very light over the toungue, with citrus notes at the back of the mouth, and a very clean finish. The blanco, younger by a few months, was harsher, and more astringent, but still definitely related to its older cousin by the citrus flavor. Both were served in brandy snifters, and were a wonderful accompaniment to the meal.
Oh, the meal! I opted for the filet mignon special, consisting of two thin slices of filet sandwiching a sort of compote made of squash blossom and corn. Chihuahua cheese was melted over the top slice of meat, and the whole package was floated on a green poblano pepper sauce. Can I just say that the steak was so fine, at times it was hard to tell where the meat left off and the melted cheese began. The buttery-smooth poblano sauce coated the mouth in a beautifully decadent way, and the usual sides of refried beans, guacamole, and rice dotted the plate like witnesses to the star entree. Commence the Pavlovian salivating.
My wife opted for the pork special, made up of finely diced pork chunks marinated, cooked, and served in a pumpkin-tomato sauce. What a rich, smoky, luxurious sauce it was, too. The pork fell apart when you breathed on it, and the thick sauce clung to every bite, making the inside of your mouth feel like a well-seasoned barbecue pit. The pork, rice, guacamole, and beans could have been spread over the fresh tortillas that came with the dish, but after the appetizer, and the chips and salsa (so beautiful, so cool, so cilantro-y) my wife couldn't finish more than a third of her main course. Guess what's for lunch today, folks.
My only hint for those new to Tequila's, apart from "Try the beef!" is to avoid the pickled jalapeno peppers that appear along with your chips and salsa. These babies will sting for a good ten minutes after you eat them, so if you must try them, make sure it's a goodly time before your entree arrives. Whatever you do, don't spoil the experience of the entree by numbing your palate with hot peppers.
Oh, but I could go on again about the artwork, the intricately carved woodwork in the bar area, the glassware, the food, the service, and more, but I will leave it at that. If I haven't convinced you yet to try Tequila's, I never can. Don't just take my word for it, though; go experience it for yourself.
© SL, 2003
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Almost any beef dish is amazing.
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
slarter
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Reviews written: 131
Trusted by: 126 members
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You live, you learn...
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