Don't Miss Out on Luka's Hipster Sunday Brunch
Written: Mar 05 '08 (Updated Mar 05 '08)
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Pros: High-quality ingredients, amazing array of choices, upscale yet relaxed vibe
Cons: None!
The Bottom Line: This is the best brunch I have had, as the effortlessly delicious food is offered without the stiff formality of hotel brunches.
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"My name is Luka, I live on the second floor..."
While Luka's Taproom and Lounge in Oakland, CA is named for the owners' dog, rather than Suzanne Vega's 80s hit song, I couldn't help but think of that tune when we ate at Luka's recently. If only we lived below Luka's Taproom--I'd probably weigh 3 times what I do now from eating all their lovingly prepared, but high-fat foods!
We recently went up to Oakland to try Luka's Sunday brunch, without our daughter in tow since she was still with my parents. Not having her along meant we could focus on someplace a little more upscale, as opposed to a local diner or other more family-friendly establishment.
After a whirlwind 1 night trip to San Diego, we were glad to be back home and thought we'd indulge in a decadent Sunday brunch. When I say decadent, I'm talking about calories and fat, not the decor or the service. We found what we were looking for and were fortunate that Luka's also offered a full-service experience, with an upscale yet relaxed hipster vibe to the dining experience.
The Glorious Food
Almost immediately after we sat down, we were given 4 small squares of cornbread slightly bigger than bite-size (maybe 2" in width?). It came with both a small single-use vial of honey and a large dab of a neon green pepper jelly. We enjoyed these very much while browsing the menu and waiting for the appetizers. The cornbread was moist and flavorful, albeit a little messy as it crumbled quite a bit. The vial of honey was adorable and such a nice touch compared to the typical bread and butter starter. I really enjoyed the cornbread and even got a second helping after we ate the first plate of 4 pieces.
We each started with a specialty drink. I had the mimosa (Varichon and Clerc blanc de blancs sparkling wine with fresh squeezed orange juice - $7) , while hubby enjoyed Luka's Balsamic Bloody (Absolut vodka, balsamic vinegar, worcestershire, tabasco, salt, pepper and tomato juice - $8). My mimosa was nicely balance with OJ and sparkling wine, but the true winner was the Bloody Mary. It offered a great zing with the dash of balsamic vinegar.
Next, since I love raw oysters, I ordered two Kumamoto oysters with champagne mignonette ($2.50 each, local from Pt. Reyes). Served on a bed of rock salt with two lemon wedges, these two incredibly fresh and tender Kumamoto oysters were served with a delicious mignonette studded with diced raw red onion. Even though hubby wasn't having any, I made sure to scoop up a fair serving of the red onion bits!
Together, we shared a small order of Luka's Belgian-Style Fries with chipotle aioli, smoked paprika ketchup and herbed aioli ($4). The fries arrived in a parchment paper spiral, but was placed inside a pint glass. This caused the bottom layer of fries to "steam" and become soggy so we left the last 1/3 of fries. However, the top 2/3 of the fries were simply irresistible! The garlic-infused flavor was unbelievable, as we didn't find any chopped garlic bits thrown on top at the last minute as we've seen with other establishments. The fries were also cooked crisply but still tender and moist inside. Of the three sauces, I enjoyed them all but my favorite was the herbed aioli.
We also shared a third appetizer, the Beignets with raspberry coulis ($7). I have never had Beignets before, so I can't quite compare them to anything but American doughnuts. These are a little denser and much smaller. I'd say bite-sized for those of us with big mouths! About 2" wide or so, the square puffed shape meant that the middle was lighter and airier. Topped liberally with powdered sugar, these were a nice treat and tasted delicious even without the raspberry coulis (a very sweet thickened sauce that reminded me of runny jam).
By this time, we were getting pretty full, but the main entrees still hadn't been served yet! We had looked on-line beforehand and already knew which entrees we were going to get. Hubby ordered the Braised Oxtail Hash, which consists of shreds of braised oxtail, yukon gold & sweet potato hash with two poached eggs & toast ($12). It's an innovative dish, but he felt that there wasn't enough oxtail. There was much more of the potato and sweet potato hash, and rather than being a crisply fried dish like corned beef has, this was much more like a stew. I thought it was very tasty and was just as delicious re-heated the next day.
I chose to sample their Fried Chicken with collard green gratin & hash browns (though grits are an option) ($13). I also added the optional sausage gravy ($2). This entree was the crowning glory to an already outstanding brunch. The fried chicken was darker than expected, generously seasoned, but not a heavy breading like KFC's version. I believe there was 1 drumstick, 1 wing, 1 breast, and maybe a thigh, too.
My favorite part of the entree was actually the collard green gratin--which was ADDICTIVE. I have never liked dark leafy greens, but I could eat this everyday and twice on Sunday! Topped with diced cubes of some sort of dry salty pork, the collard greens were creamy with the addition of a heavy dose of cheese. The hash browns were standard, albeit thinly grated as opposed to the thick frozen food/cafeteria style Ore-Ida hash browns. I'm sorry, I'm not a fan of grits so I didn't order those.
I also ordered the sausage gravy on the side, a large serving of a country-style white gravy with large chunks of delicious sausage. It was a thick creamy gravy with a wonderful saltiness about it. Hands down, the BEST gravy I have ever had.
As you might suspect, we ended up taking home at least half of both entrees, since we filled up on the appetizers pretty quickly. I can't wait to go back here to try the other brunch items.
Other Details
Located on the corner of Broadway and Grand in downtown Oakland, Luka's has a small lot directly behind in on Grand. There's a huge new development of condos across the street, so I imagine the hope is that those residents will be regulars.
The staff is young, with hip asymmetrical hairstyles and pierced eyebrows, so it's definitely a funky vibe as opposed to stiff and formal. Still, service was precise and attentive without being overwhelming.
Luka's also has several beers on tap (hence the name, Taproom) as well as a 1200 square foot performance area/dance floor next door. Since we were there on a Sunday morning, a few minutes before they even opened around 10:30 am, we didn't get to try either of those.
We sat near the back of the restaurant by a window, so I had a good view of folks sitting at the bar near the front of the entrance, other diners in the wooden booths, and the pool table/arcade room at the very back of the restaurant. Given these features, I would suspect this is probably a great late-night hangout, too.
The crowd was a mix as well: recent college grads, middle-aged folks, even some older ones (in their 60s or so). I did not see any children, so I don't know that this is a very family-friendly establishment for those under 10. By the time we left around 12, the place was pretty packed so I would recommend reservations.
All in all, I am excitedly anticipating our next meal here!
Special thanks to megugrrrl for adding this restaurant for me, too!
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Sunday brunch offers some amazing interpretations of classics!
Best Suited For: Friends
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