Next to meatloaf and mashed potatoes, is there any food phrase that speaks so lovingly of youthful dining excess than Macaroni & Cheese? In our household it was gooey, economical and always homemade. Aromatic and bubbly from the oven, this crumb-tossed landscape could reveal ham, chicken or olives and fresh tomato nestled with elbows or ziti (or whatever’s on sale) and a combination of English Cheddar and Italian Romano. The texturally-tantalizing combination of crunchy and creamy could always turn a side-dish into a hearty main meal.

“Parlez-vous fromage?”

In this simply-titled tribute to Macaroni & Cheese author Marlena Spieler and photographer Noel Barnhurst tackle not only the variety and spirit of this coveted dish, but its sources and science as well. From the no-frills domestic Wacky Macaroni & Cheeseburger to exotic locales where warmed platters of Amalfi Coast Orecchiette with Lemon, Tangy White Cheese and Arugula are served, this book is both enthusiastically visual and vital in food preparation theory and practical application.

“Life is half magic and half pasta . . .” - Federico Fellini

The four-page introduction is a meal in itself - an author’s travelogue that chronicles the subtle variations and traditions with fond attribution and respect for the countless combinations that qualify for inclusion. Woe is the vegan or lactose-intolerant, for this is the essence of gourmand sustenance without compromise.

“Big Cheeses with Holes!”

Chapter one The Basics gives an overview of available cheeses and their proper pasta pairings. This sensual medley uses terms such as soft, firm and round for a serious and informative discussion aimed at an international education throughout your “Cheese lover’s mini-guide”. Tips on buying and storing those treasured Edams, Goudas and Gruyères precede an extensive pasta glossary.

Macaroni’s Got the Blues

Nine recipes with titles such as Midnight Macaroni and For People Who Love Onions make-up this “Easy and Cheesy” assortment; some of which (as in Midsummer’s Macaroni) require a simple toss-and-serve of their piping-hot pasta, olives, goat cheese, fresh herbs and olive oil. Five of the nine recipes include full-page (9 x 8 inch) color photos of the finished dish in high-definition presentation.

“Yes ... Soup for You!”

Macaroni & Cheese in liquid form is explored in Chapter Three, with variations on the broth and Minestrone themes that offer a landing-zone for pasta shapes and cheesy additions; most being reminiscent of the perennial favorite known as French Onion soup.

Trash-Talkin’ Mac’s Back!

Chapter Four begins by tackling Deliciously Trashy Mac And Cheese with an Extra Hit of Mustard and Pickled Jalapeños, which uses both Parmesan and Gouda cheese and Dijon mustard in an evaporated milk base. A dozen such “stove-top” offerings lead-up to the Sexy Mayor of Rome Carbonara, whose Prosciutto and Parmesan in a white wine stock is held together by slightly-beaten eggs which are cooked while tossed with steaming Fettuccine.

Now we’re Cookin’ Green . . .

Appropriately, the most extensive chapter presents recipes for oven-baked casseroles with a range of cheese and pasta options. Green peas, onions and six ounces of sharp Cheddar give the ho-hum Tuna Noodle Casserole a kick in the gills; with an addition of only the best tuna a given. Broccolissimo and Double Asparagus Gratin go green with veggies and cheeses Gruyère and Greek Graviera; respectively.

Falooda?

An abbreviated dessert chapter rounds-out the delicious post-entrée display, with the India-sourced Cherry/Vermicelli confection known as Falooda. Delicate and sweet, its pudding consistency is due to a Coconut milk and pasta base, topped with Cardamon-scented Ricotta-yogurt ice cream. Other post-repast choices include Lemon-scented Pasta Pudding and Dr. Esther’s Lokshen Kugel with Apple, Golden Raisins and Cottage Cheese.

A page of Cheese Source information lists a dozen vendors; both brick-and-mortar and on-line for your convenience. A complete alphabetical index is followed by a handy Table of Equivalents that covers oven temperatures, lengths and liquid/dry measurements in both US and Metric detail.

In spite of the questionable durability of a weak binding, I find Marlena Spieler’s compilation of all things Macaroni & Cheese to be among the best books of its kind available. The well-designed assortment of recipes that appear on opposing pages with quality photography by Noel Barnhurst deserves an appetizing A-plus rating; or five edible Epinions stars crafted from Big Cheeses with Holes.

A little Dijon qualifies this review for The Best LITTLE Write-Off Ever!, mustered-up by that W/O success-story and Macaroni & Skirt Steak maker dianapinions.

Macaroni & Cheese (2006)
Author: Marlena Spieler
Photography: Noel Barnhurst
Chronicle Books LLC
San Francisco / Vancouver, BC
chroniclebooks.com
ISBN: 0811849627
Cover Price: $16.95 (US)
Price Paid @ edwardrhamilton.com: $4.95

Recommended: Yes