Mama Ayesha's, Washington, D.C......A Modest Middle Eastern Restaurant
Written: Oct 29 '03
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Pros: Everything is made on the premises, attentive, thoughtful service, reasonable prices
Cons: Unpretentious decor may not appeal to everyone, but this will change soon
The Bottom Line: Mama Ayesha's is a solid institution in Woodley Park and offers freshly prepared cooking and friendly service. Prices are moderate.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Mama Ayesha's |
On the cusp between Woodley Park and Adams Morgan is Mama Ayesha's Calvert Cafe, long a landmark of Middle Eastern cooking in Washington. Mama herself passed on about ten years ago, but her torch is held aflame by her family who still run the restaurant with care.
The Restaurant
From the outside, you might not give the place a second thought. The building is as unpretentious as they come, but the interior is more welcoming. The large room has been bisected by arches and Ionic pilasters, a bit fancy for the rest of the room. Plain restaurant chairs from the 1950's, old restaurant reviews and photographs lining the beige walls make up most of what passes for decoration. Two ceremonial swords hang over the bar in case anyone decides to skip on their check.
In December or January, this may change, as a program of interior refurbishment is planned. For the moment, it's best to go here for the food alone. You won't be disappointed.
The mood is set by the wailing Arabic music in the background, fortunately not too loud. The restaurant has been here since 1952, a very long time in Restaurant Years.
The Menu
First Course
I had not been here for some time, as the bridge to Woodley Park is almost enough to separate it into another realm for me. It has to be worth it to me to make the crossing. It was well worth the effort today.
I began with the Lifid ($1.95), violently pink pickled turnips. I wish I had known that they would accompany the samosas, or spinach pies ($3.95) that I'd ordered. The pink turnips were chilled and tangy, with just a hint of fire underneath the vinegar. These turned out to be a good foil for the spinach samosas which were slightly doughy and sodden.
Salad
As it turned out. the salad I had ordered was also a good match for the doughy pillows of spinach. Helen's Salad ($3.95), as it is billed, is nothing more than a bowl of finely chopped tomatoes and onions in a light dressing of olive oil and lemon juice. While there may not have been much to it on first glance, it was the perfect antidote. A basket of warm Lebanese flatbread came with the salad as well, perfect for scooping up the tomatoes.
Other traditional Lebanese salads are offered as well. The Fattoush ($3.95), chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley and mint is always good.
Main Course
The lamb Shank ($11.50) is one of their best offerings. The chef went out of his way to be generous today. Instead of just a lamb shank, it appeared as though I had received half again as much. This is almost like the pot roast your mother used to make. The meat needed no coaxing to fall away from the bone in tender shreds. A colorful bouquet of soft, mushy carrots, celery and potatoes surrounded the joint. Chewy, but not undercooked rice was served on the other side of this Rushmore of lunch, drenched liberally with the jus of the lamb. Perfect comfort food for a gray day in Washington!
The grill is equally worth your attention. I have enjoyed the Mixed Grill ($11.50), marinated lamb, chicken breast and ground beef charred to a crackling, spicy crunch over a real fire in their kitchen. This offers a bit of the best of everything. Of course, you could also order the Swordfish Kebab ($11.50) or the Filet of Salmon ($11.50 again). Most entrees are served with rice and vegetables, so there is no nonsense about having to order many side dishes here. They believe in feeding you well.
Couscous is one of the house specialties, as you might expect. Theirs ($9.95) is light and golden, and has such huge chunks of lamb and myriad vegetables that you might not need to eat again for days. If garlic is your thing, the Garlic Chicken ($9.50) is not to be missed. Sure to make you unpopular at work or at home, this half chicken has enough garlic to ward off half the city. It's worth the ostracism! Just don't tell them I sent you.
I could go on and on about the menu, but I'll stop here. The freshness is the thing to remember.
Dessert
Mohamed, my waiter, recommended the dessert cart. How wrong he was....I couldn't even think of dessert today. I have had simple desserts like baklava ($2.50) here before and have been generally pleased. The Arabian Rice Pudding ($2.50) reminds me more of the nursery than the Levant, but that may just be me. This afternoon, I finished with Arabic coffee, strong as a fort and black as pitch. Highly recommended.
Wine List
They do have a token wine list, but the thing to have with your repast is tea. If you must go ahead and have wine, the bottles are not priced above $30.00, very reasonable in these parts.
Service
This afternoon, I was attended to by Mohamed, a very pleasant and thorough server. Though he was obviously serving the whole room, I never felt neglected. The service I have had on past visits has been equally attentive.
Cost
The best thing about this place is that it doesn't cost too much. The prices at lunch and dinner are exactly the same, except possibly for occasional specials. The restaurant is an excellent value for the money.
Reservations Etc.
You will likely need a reservation on weekend nights, but probably not at most other times. They don't yet offer valet parking, but it is under consideration. There is no dress code. All major credit cards are accepted. They are open as follows:
12:00 PM-12:00 AM Daily
How nice and uncomplicated, just like the rest of the place.
Mama Ayesha's
1967 Calvert Street, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20009
Tel. 202-232-5431
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Reservations not needed at lunch, but probably at dinner
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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 - Top 100 |
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 684
Trusted by: 441 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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